CRX trans leak
#1
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CRX trans leak
I have a transmission leak and it looks like its coming from the drivers side axle seal, is this a hard fix? do i have to take apart the trans or what?
#2
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Re: CRX trans leak
ohh if it helps its a L3-2079387 transmission, dont know if thats the stock crx one or what, but it looks like its leaking right where the axle goes into the trans
#3
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Re: CRX trans leak
are you comfortable pulling your axle/halfshaft? If so you can do the repair yourself fairly easily. Just pop the axle out, use a hook or pliars or something to pull out old seal, pop in the new one.
Not familiar with that tranny code, im guessing its a D series tranny with no halfshaft. so just break free the axle nut, pull off the steering tie rod, pop free the lower ball joint, at which point you can pull the knuckle out of the way and pull the axle out. you might need to pry the axle out near the transmission as there is a snap clip on the axle that holds it in and can be a little tough. Just pry a little, turn pry turn pry, etc.
Should be good to go.
Not familiar with that tranny code, im guessing its a D series tranny with no halfshaft. so just break free the axle nut, pull off the steering tie rod, pop free the lower ball joint, at which point you can pull the knuckle out of the way and pull the axle out. you might need to pry the axle out near the transmission as there is a snap clip on the axle that holds it in and can be a little tough. Just pry a little, turn pry turn pry, etc.
Should be good to go.
#6
Re: CRX trans leak
are you comfortable pulling your axle/halfshaft? If so you can do the repair yourself fairly easily. Just pop the axle out, use a hook or pliars or something to pull out old seal, pop in the new one.
Not familiar with that tranny code, im guessing its a D series tranny with no halfshaft. so just break free the axle nut, pull off the steering tie rod, pop free the lower ball joint, at which point you can pull the knuckle out of the way and pull the axle out. you might need to pry the axle out near the transmission as there is a snap clip on the axle that holds it in and can be a little tough. Just pry a little, turn pry turn pry, etc.
Should be good to go.
Not familiar with that tranny code, im guessing its a D series tranny with no halfshaft. so just break free the axle nut, pull off the steering tie rod, pop free the lower ball joint, at which point you can pull the knuckle out of the way and pull the axle out. you might need to pry the axle out near the transmission as there is a snap clip on the axle that holds it in and can be a little tough. Just pry a little, turn pry turn pry, etc.
Should be good to go.
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#8
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Re: CRX trans leak
if you have any syncro grinds, you can get GM syncromesh with Friction modifier. Do a search for syncromesh, i cant remember the number. Its somewhat expensive but really does help.
If your syncros are good, then just refill with whatever the honda dealership gives ya.
oh and i usually did the upper balljoint as the weight of the knuckle pulling down on the ball joint and a hammer tapping just below the nut(between BJ and top nut) on the metal usually just makes the thing come apart without tearing into a boot.
If your syncros are good, then just refill with whatever the honda dealership gives ya.
oh and i usually did the upper balljoint as the weight of the knuckle pulling down on the ball joint and a hammer tapping just below the nut(between BJ and top nut) on the metal usually just makes the thing come apart without tearing into a boot.
#9
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Re: CRX trans leak
it usually doesnt grind, and i dont have a honda dealer near me, it would be nice if someone could tell me what kind of oil it needs, and any way to save the ball joints their kinda expensive
#11
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Re: CRX trans leak
Yeah standard 5-30 oil will work temp. but you should really use a honda mtf or similar. You need something that lubricates, yet has a friction type quality to it so that your syncros can catch the gears and match them up. Its kinda hard to explain without tearing apart a tranny and showing ya.
Best way to save the balljoint from damage is just like i said above.
Undo the top nut and back it off until its only on by a few turns. Then the piece of metal that the ball joint bolt goes through, give that some whacks with a metal hammer. The shock shoots into the bolt area there and usually breaks it free with the help of the weight of the knuckle. This is why we leave the bolt a little on, so when the thing gives it doesnt just drop down onto your foot or something haha
Best way to save the balljoint from damage is just like i said above.
Undo the top nut and back it off until its only on by a few turns. Then the piece of metal that the ball joint bolt goes through, give that some whacks with a metal hammer. The shock shoots into the bolt area there and usually breaks it free with the help of the weight of the knuckle. This is why we leave the bolt a little on, so when the thing gives it doesnt just drop down onto your foot or something haha
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