Bought a cheap hatch...is it a lost cause???
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Bought a cheap hatch...is it a lost cause???
Ok bought her for $100 running really well with a broken drivers seat, rust like a mother and needs some cv joints...thats about it. Starts on a dime everytime. The question is...is the body a lost cause. Check out the carnage of the rust.
The hood hinges are COMPLETELY rusted out all teh way...even the metal underneath. Should i just fix the cv joints and driver her til she rusts away or attempt taking it to a body shop. I checked under the car and no rust whatsoever. IDK what to do with her but she runs really good.
The hood hinges are COMPLETELY rusted out all teh way...even the metal underneath. Should i just fix the cv joints and driver her til she rusts away or attempt taking it to a body shop. I checked under the car and no rust whatsoever. IDK what to do with her but she runs really good.
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Re: Bought a cheap hatch...is it a lost cause??? (justseeingifitistaken)
my thought is that it is too far gone, unless you are a body man with free shop time. i would just drive it until it falls apart.. but thats me. I am all for saving EF's, but at some point the cost to benefit diverges and never comes back.
#3
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Re: Bought a cheap hatch...is it a lost cause??? (justseeingifitistaken)
leave it as is and build a dope motor for it. (blackies in the back, silver steelies in the front. hehehe)
sleeper status!
sleeper status!
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Re: Bought a cheap hatch...is it a lost cause??? (STREETWERKZ)
do you think i should be concerned for the 'integrity' of the body to drive it all the time?? i mean i think i would be hard pressed to sell it again to someone...i would feel bad at least. You would be surprised how well it pulls even with both axles shot and only the 4 speed...nothing like my a6 wagon or my old sohc zc crx, but it IS only a d15b2 sooo.....DPFI FTW@!!!!@@!!@
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Re: Bought a cheap hatch...is it a lost cause??? (justseeingifitistaken)
quickfix the rust, strip it down, put an annoyingly loud exhaust on it and have fun with it until it gives up the ghost.
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Re: Bought a cheap hatch...is it a lost cause??? (subliminal_criminal)
put a cheap zc or z6 in there and call it a day... maybe boost it ... who cares you got it for nothing ... i paid 200 for mine and it was bad... but no rust...
#7
Re: Bought a cheap hatch...is it a lost cause??? (subliminal_criminal)
Damn! A few spots are really bad....but the rear quarters are good?
Underneath is good?
Fix that ****. Keep it and fix it. For 1 bill you cant beat that.
Underneath is good?
Fix that ****. Keep it and fix it. For 1 bill you cant beat that.
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Re: Bought a cheap hatch...is it a lost cause??? (SIred91)
with that A pillar the way it is, should i grind off all the excess rust and POR-15 it and fiberglass it???? it shouldnt pop up again for 'looks' sake again huh??? i live in Hawaii so rust is pretty bad here
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Re: (downandgoing)
depends if you got all the time and energy in the world. id say fix it, if you really are inthusiastic about EF's.
THats alot of bad rust tho, so good luck
THats alot of bad rust tho, so good luck
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Re: (layedoutat0psi)
Reminds me of my $350 ski beater. Usually the worst rust is underneath the rear bumper and along the rocker panels near the jackpoints.
With cars like these, usually they make good DD's, because you simply dont care about keeping them nice. I wouldn't waste money trying to fix rust.
With cars like these, usually they make good DD's, because you simply dont care about keeping them nice. I wouldn't waste money trying to fix rust.
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Re: (Malgerus)
well i just sold my 4 year project rex, of which i have owned 7 of all together. I hate to just let it keep going bad, but i can see it is pretty far gone. I also have an RT4WD wagon right now so i can 'afford' to be down with this hatch while i am fixing her axles and stuff. we'll see how far it goes. Thanks for all the insight fellas. This is what honda-tech is for.
Dennis
Dennis
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She's a goner. Do what I did with mine.
50$ worth of spray paint (you should fill that big hole on the pillar with bondo or something first) and spray paint it all 1 color, hides the rust. And beat the **** out of it.
Here's what my beater looked like after it's paint job and she was a goner before.
Before:
After:
The before picture was after I had done a bondo+white paint job. All I did to paint it is buy the cheapest **** possible and sanded the car first. Didn't wash it, nothing. Paint last for 20XXXkms looking the same way before i scrapped the car.
Edit:
A full summer later, here is what she looked like before I parted her out:
50$ worth of spray paint (you should fill that big hole on the pillar with bondo or something first) and spray paint it all 1 color, hides the rust. And beat the **** out of it.
Here's what my beater looked like after it's paint job and she was a goner before.
Before:
After:
The before picture was after I had done a bondo+white paint job. All I did to paint it is buy the cheapest **** possible and sanded the car first. Didn't wash it, nothing. Paint last for 20XXXkms looking the same way before i scrapped the car.
Edit:
A full summer later, here is what she looked like before I parted her out:
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Re: (Malgerus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Malgerus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Only thing with bondo is that it tends to bubble pretty easily.
If you do a paint job like that, I'm sure it would have to be sealed pretty well</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not really. I didn't do anything. A few layers of crappy paint and bondo. But his is bad. We would have to at least weld a small peice of metal in then bondo or come up with a creative solution (metal mesh lol). But it doesn't have to be anywhere near perfect. That's the true beauty of a beater. You don't have to care and you drive that thing right into the ground. But you want it to be decent for driving to work and stuff.
If you do a paint job like that, I'm sure it would have to be sealed pretty well</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not really. I didn't do anything. A few layers of crappy paint and bondo. But his is bad. We would have to at least weld a small peice of metal in then bondo or come up with a creative solution (metal mesh lol). But it doesn't have to be anywhere near perfect. That's the true beauty of a beater. You don't have to care and you drive that thing right into the ground. But you want it to be decent for driving to work and stuff.
#20
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Re: (ludesrv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
After:
</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn you did a great job with that.. i need to do that with mine..
After:
</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn you did a great job with that.. i need to do that with mine..
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Re: (sanimalp)
i was thinking of some tiger hair and then bondo it smooth...and then proceed with paint. cheap and temporary i know, but she is too far gone i believe.
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Re: (justseeingifitistaken)
either way to do any sort of even a b*llsh*t repair to that pillar the windshield has to be pulled, it is rotted and weak right to the molding, whether you tigar hair it, weld it, fill it with expandable foam or cardboard and mudd it up, any way you go about it you much pull the glass or there won't be anything for your material to bond too, it'll just crack and fall off and keep rusting away. either do it right or leave it be, theres no quick fix in a structural area like that.
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i would try to make a patch to cover up the spot on the pillar or cut the roof of a donor car it depends i would spray paint it up and ride it for a while i sold my ef for 80 with a blown motor and some roof rust and a shifted front end good luck
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Re: (i-want-a-crx)
UPDATE!!!! Really a downdate (???? it should exist as a word???)
Sold it for $50 profit. rust was far worse than i could handle. Guy bought it said he was gonna just roll with it.
Sold it for $50 profit. rust was far worse than i could handle. Guy bought it said he was gonna just roll with it.