existanzcivicb20

Ok 1990 CRX SI swapped a b20b using a p28 chipped, using stock fuel rail and injectors car starts with no problem but then dies a few moments later. I've tried swapping TPS, smoked the intake manifold for leaks, new grounds, 3 map sensors im st a loss here please help

4drEF

How's your fuel pressure looking?

existanzcivicb20

Will test when i get home. Also I just remembered that I had cut the J1 jumper in the ECU I will have to install new jumper and hopefully that will be my fix.

existanzcivicb20

OK so i fixed the J1 jumper and when i start the car it idles at about 500 RPMs and if I try hitting the accelerator it dies. If I disconnect the MAP sensor the car turns on with no problem and idles perfectly but if I try hitting the accelerator it bogs out and dies. Please watch videos for reference. I tried to measure the fuel pressure but the pressure gauge I got from autozone is busted I think cuz it reads zero I will go get another one tomorrow and while im there Ill get a new fuel filter just in case I but did just change it about 8 months ago.

existanzcivicb20

The injectors im using are the stock CRX SI and fuel rail would that be an issue?

existanzcivicb20

Fuel pressure is at about 28psi at idle with the vacuum line connected to the FPR and 38psi disconnected

existanzcivicb20

I could really use some help on this one

4drEF

What tune is on the ECU now? What size injectors are in?

existanzcivicb20

Base map for a stock b20 and the injectors are from my d16 CRX SI with the resistor box

4drEF

Quadruple check the timing belt timing.

Check TPS to make sure it's voltage is in spec - not sure if you calibrated it after swapping it.

I think you have low fuel pressure. I don't have a service manual for the CRV, but Google says the following;
30~36 - hose connected
38~46 - disconnected hose

existanzcivicb20

Just checked timing again last night and it looks to be good and it did come off a running car. I did calibrate the TPS to .49v when closed and 4.9 at WOT. The Distributor I am using I just bought new from ebay but being that it was cheap I think i will buy a new one from oreillys today and try that. As far as the fuel pressure what could be causing lower fuel pressure? I did change the fuel filter about 5 days ago

4drEF

I don't think the fuel pressure would make it run like it is.
Very odd that it's not even throwing a CEL at this point.
I'm stumped! You've done everything I would have thought to do.

existanzcivicb20

I swapped out the distributor and still no change whats so ever.

existanzcivicb20

Another thing I was thinking about the EGR plug from the harness has nothing to plug into. DO you think this could have anything to do with my issue?

4drEF

No, .... unless the connector is disconnected from an EGR that has a massive tear in the diaphragm causing a vacuum leak.

existanzcivicb20

Well i dont have the EGR valve because of the swap so the EGR plug is unplugged

I also purchase a OBD1 Integra LS ECU unchipped but the care still runs the same bogs down under any (gentle or hard) acceleration. It does throw a code 41 now. I also tested each injector and all 4 are at 0.8 ohms. I have another set of injectors that came off my 96 civic and those tested at 10ohms I dont know what the i should have.

I have no idea what else I can do or test I feel defeated

existanzcivicb20

Anyone have any more ideas? I have swapped the two wires on the TPS green and yellow wires and the car runs good with out bogging until full throttle then it bogs down. only code I have is a 41

existanzcivicb20

bump

existanzcivicb20

Any help

Marcos Barrios

well from the video i saw that you posted its the timing belt
check it with the timing light and im sure youll find out whats wrong sounds like its off by 2 teeth or more
get your ignition timing right, with the timing light and then go from there

existanzcivicb20

Update I checked timing and it is dead on. I installed a new MAP sensor again and now the car runs great no cel codes. When driving down the road no issues but if I hit full throttle Cel comes on with code 3 and the car dies when I let of the gas.

4drEF

Code 3 is usually something other than the sensor itself;
incorrect cam timing
incorrect ignition timing
restricted exhaust
excessively worn engine or leaking valves

existanzcivicb20

I get 160 psi across all 4 cylinders. I have checked timing and its dead on (with timing light). I dont know what else to check

Marcos Barrios

where are you?
your location says mid west
so what state are you in
if your close to lincoln NE i can fix your problem
if your interested that is

existanzcivicb20

Originally from Chicago but now i live in Houston