bmxtrev

drove my newly swapped b18a EF hatch today to school. The battery is too weak to turn over the engine so its pretty dead.

So my battery isnt charging. but the big issue is that between idle and like 2k rpm, the engine bogs and sounds like its making popcorn (backfiring noises), and has very little power. after 2k rpm, it drives just fine according to my experience with it the night before. everytime i come to a stop and press the clutch in, the car dies. But at first start up, it idles just fine, at probably 750rpm. And stop and go traffic is a pain because it makes that gross popcorn sound and drives rough, like its missing or a spark plug isnt working. any ideas how to fix the bogging and backfiring in low rpm range? i would imagine that once thats fixed, it wont die when dropping down to idle.

BTW, the car makes the backfiring noises and bogs when im giving it 20% throttle or less. otherwise it goes away.

Any ideas?

4drEF

do you get a CEL light on your dash?

bmxtrev

last night i checked and i have a code 10 which is the iat. today i looked at the iat and i had the EACV and the IAT plugs swapped with each other. i put them in there right spots, and turned on the car, the CEL went away and no codes, but after like 5 minutes it came back on. Im charging the battery right now but ill go look what codes its throwing in the next hour.

bmxtrev

could having the EACV and IAT plugs switched be the problem? i put them in their right spots but the sputtering didnt go away, maybe i have to reset the ecu?

4drEF

Have to see what codes you got now that you swapped the connectors.

So far it sounds like a TPS issue, but it's just a guess.

bmxtrev

i got rid of all the codes, but now a new one popped up. code 14, which is the eacv. That would definitely explain the sputtering and bogging at low rpm, and a bad idle, right?

Its wired up good, and i cleaned it out, but to no prevail. Im getting some eacv units tomorrow that i know for sure are good to go, so ill put those on there and see if the problem goes away.

91Si77

Mine did that when I swapped the same engine in mine, I ended up using my old distributor from the d16a1 and only the top bolt hole lined up but it ran fine after that until I got a new a1 distributor, cause the b18a1 distributor I was trying to use was corroded badly on the inside

wreckeddc4

Any time ive put the wrong plug on the ait sensor they have melted because theyre only supposed to see a couple volts, and when you plug in the plug from the iacv it puts 12 volts through it. Pop the sensor out and see if the end is melted off. If so thats likely one of the problems. Also the iacv usually gets really dirty with time and can usually be cleaned out back to working order.