blackmagicCRX

I just finished putting a different B16 in my car. I got it cranked up but it is idling really low and it has no vtec. I don't know what to do. Any help is appreciated.

B16 ED9

Did you run the wire for the VTEC correctly?, does the ECU give code 21 for the VTEC solenoid, it could be the oil pressure switch, or the VSS.

TIRENECK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16 ED9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you run the wire for the VTEC correctly?, does the ECU give code 21 for the VTEC solenoid, it could be the oil pressure switch, or the VSS.</TD></TR></TABLE>

blackmagicCRX

I already had a b16 in it. I just replaced it. Everything worked fine before. It is still wired the same way. It is showing no codes.

B16 ED9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackmagicCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I already had a b16 in it. I just replaced it. Everything worked fine before. It is still wired the same way. It is showing no codes.</TD></TR></TABLE>


well check you oil pressure switch, try replacing it, once again check the VSS. What ECU are you using? PR3?

blackmagicCRX

Wouldn't one of those set a code if they were bad?
If VSS is a vehicle speed sensor, I don't have one. I only have the speedometer cable.

B16 ED9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackmagicCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wouldn't one of those set a code if they were bad?
If VSS is a vehicle speed sensor, I don't have one. I only have the speedometer cable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL. the speedometer is the VSS it might of come loose either from the tranny or back of you gauge cluster, check those as well or you might have a faulty ECU than.

blackmagicCRX

bump.... i just set the tps voltage to .45V and now I crank it up and it will idle but very low and if i give it gas it will rev up and when it comes down it just cuts off. I am getting lost. please help

blackmagicCRX

If the cable came loose would it still move the needle on the speedo guage?

ssl2k

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackmagicCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the cable came loose would it still move the needle on the speedo guage?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It sounds like you're vss is perfectly fine.

There are NO Cels?

B16 ED9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackmagicCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the cable came loose would it still move the needle on the speedo guage?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yes it would, actually it funny that you brought this up I am in this situation right now as well, my VSS came loos from back of my gauge cluster, but it still moves the needle, BUT not they way it should, the needle hesitates and ****, its not smoothe at all time for a new VSS cable or a gauge cluster.

blackmagicCRX

No codes, speedo works, TPS voltage set to .45, I double checked my O2 sensors, green plug to C8, cream plug to C16. Idle sucks, it is very low. No vtec

B16 ED9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ssl2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It sounds like you're vss is perfectly fine.

There are NO Cels?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No it dosent, My speedo is all fucked up and I dont have a ECU codes either, that dosent mean that is is fine

blackmagicCRX

well my speedo works smoothly. I am not that worried about the vtec right now. I can drive without it. I need to get my idle right.

blackmagicCRX

can anyone help me fix my idle? Open to any suggestions.

blackmagicCRX

anyone please???????

GRAND CIVIC

First of all did you use your old intake manifold? If you did not you might have a bad idle air control valve.

blackmagicCRX

I swapped my intake manifolds and it idles good now but every once in a while it surges. What IACV do you buy off of what vehicle?

daidilus

did you check your idle adjustment screw?

alexdog69

Here is a procedure i posted on ef-honda for fixing idle problems...
http://www.ef-honda.com/main/v...=idle

1: Remove the IACV...this is usually on the back side of the intake manifold plenum.. it is an electronic device used by the ECU to modify idle speed... If you want to get tough, take it apart... But the idea is just to clean it up nice inside with carb cleaner and compressed air... The easy route (no disconnecting coolant lines, etc) is just to unbolt it... Move it away from the IM... Spray lots of carb cleaner into it.. and hit all the passengers with compressed air.. Do this a few times.. Make sure its nice and clean and happy...

2: Remove the FITV .. This is usually located under the TB, with coolant lines going to it .. This is a mechanical device used to regulate your idle based on coolant temperature... There should be a spring loaded unit in there.. Screw that all the way down until you can't screw it in any more... (Yes, turn the face of the spring loaded unit in like its a bolt) There is a slot on the face of the white thing on the end of the spring, you can use that with the proper tool (a big flat head will work) to screw it in nice and tight...

3: Clean the TB and IM with carb cleaner.. Pay close attention to the area around the butterfly...
4: Clean and lubricate all the mechanical portions of the TB
5: Adjust the throttle cable.. it is better to error on the side of ever so slightly looser than "taut" than it is to make it too tight (this means pulling the butterfly open.. it is NOT the job of the cable to set the idle by limiting the closure of the butterfly ! ! !) ...

6: Adjust the TPS voltage to reach .3 - 5V when closed.. There are three wires that attach to the TPS on the back of the TB... power (5V)/ground (-) and a white(?) wire which gives the actual signal from the TPS.. you want to hook a multimeter up to the signal wire (if your multimeter has the nice pointy probes just pierce the wire jacket ever so slightly, unless you have the holy dealership "PGMFI Test Harness") .. The sensor is adjusted by loosening the two screws and sliding it... There are slots in the screw holes on the TPS that allow you to slide it around to change its relative position... when its fully closed and the ignition is on (car off) you should see 0.3 - 0.5V .. most people on various forums say 0.4-0.5V...my factory EF SiR manual says 0.3V ... But the service manual routine's voltage measurement is taken AT THE ECU.... so, anyways.. It should be about 0.45V or so when closed..

7: Turn all accessories off.... meaning headlights/heater/AC/stereo/rear defrost
8: Start the car and let it warm up until the fan comes on and you're sure it's totally at operating temp.. Don't be impatient with this part.. Rev it up a few times to make sure it's warm.
9: Disconnect the plug on the IACV
10: Adjust idle screw on the top of the TB inlet to reach approximately 750 RPM
11: Turn the engine off
12: Reconnect the IACV plug
13: Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 10 seconds (to reset the ECU)
14: Reconnect the battery
15: Start the car and let it idle for a few minutes
16: Turn on the high beams, rear defrost, A/C and/or heat on high.. and let it idle that way for a few minutes..
17: Turn the car off

18: Start it again and drive it around however you like
19: Let it sit for a few hours
19: Start it up again
20: Hopefully you will then enjoy your new idle from cold to semi-cold to fully warm

It should idle at about 800 RPM after reaching temp. The "Warm up mode" should work better as well.

if I'm not mistaken, OBD0 should idle fast, around 1500RPM, when it first starts.. in order to get the O2s to temp quickly.. Then it should go somewhere in the neighborhood of 1000 RPM... Then finally drop to about 800 RPM.

Flitch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daidilus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you check your idle adjustment screw?</TD></TR></TABLE>