flanker

When I was getting my car smoged last weekend the smog guy told me the car might not pass with the vacuum leak coming from the brake booster (a loud hiss) so he crimped the vacuum hose to the brake booster and the car passed the emission test.

But I decided to replace the booster this weekend anyway so I picked up a new booster from Orileys auto parts. After I installed it and started driving around for a while I noticed my brakes were dragging. I thought it might just be a simple adjustment so I spent more time making sure that the pedal-to-booster rod was all the way in the open position in the brake pedal depressed position. Still the same results.

So I jacked up the car on jack stands so the tires could spin freely.

TEST 1
With the engine OFF, I disconnected the vacuum hose to the booster and the tires did spin freely. Still with the engine off I pumped the brakes several times and then checked the tires and they continued to spin freely. (I wanted to rule out a bad sticking caliper/master cylinder).

TEST 2
With the engine ON and vacuum hose connected to the booster, I pumped the brakes several times and then checked the tires and they were locked up!! As soon as I pulled off the vacuum hose to the brake booster the tires spun freely.

Conclusion, bad brake booster correct?

So I returned the brake booster to Orileys and they gave me another. Two hours later and more scrapes on my head and hands, this 2nd Brake booster worked worse that the first one. So now I am really pissed off at Orileys for selling me this junk and spending my weekend working on this problem.

I think I will call the dealer tomorrow and see if I can get the original OEM and not some remanufactured piece of junk.

Anyone else experience this?

Happy Repairs....

lostforawhile

nothing wrong with the booster they sold you, aren't adjusting the free play right, the pushrod length has to be set correctly, there are videos on youtube that show how to do it, as well as a lot of online information

lostforawhile

PART 7 - Adjusting the Master Cylinder pushrod

flanker

I didn't see anything specific. I have the FSM and is says nothing about the setting the freeplay. Could you please elaborate?

Thanks

lostforawhile

you have to adjust the free play correctly, or the booster will push on the rear piston in the master cylinder, block the compensating ports and your wheels will lock did you even read the link I posted?

flanker

I sent that post before I saw your link. Help greatly appreciated. I have never replaced a break booster before and didn't realize it was that complicated.
Looks like I will need to remove the booster again @&% dang it. At least I have the day off tomorrow

Thanks again.

lostforawhile

thats for an Acura I think but the procedure is the same on most Honda products

flanker

I procedure looks kinda complicated. I will give it another try tomorrow but if I can't figure it out I might just take it to someone cause my wife needs her car for work on Tuesday.

flanker

Well I fixed it. Turns out it was quite simple. I talked to a guy a PepBoys and he said all they do is check for any drag in the wheel (wheel off the ground) after depressing the brake several times and if so adjust the adjustment nut accordingly. Clockwise to back off the pushrod and counter clockwise to move it forward.

So I did and now works fantastic! No special tools required, just a 17mm open end wrench for the adjustment nut, 13mm open end wrench for the lock nut and a small pair of long nose vice grips to tighten the 12pt nut.

Thanks again lostforawhile you were correct!