91 CRX w/16 Hard start when cold only!!
#1
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91 CRX w/16 Hard start when engine is cold only!!
In the morning my b16 cranks awhile and i have to hold down the clutch for a bit until it actually starts. It cranks, stumbles,but i stay holding down the clutch and it starts. Only hard to start when the motor is cold. Its like 80 degree in NY now and still hard to start in the mornings. Once its started n i stop and go to store it will crank twice and start right up. No problems when its warm.
Any ideas?I have searched hard starts and cold starts but no direct anwers.
Motors runs good, no problems and VTEC hits nicely.
New NGK plugs,New wires.
Any ideas?I have searched hard starts and cold starts but no direct anwers.
Motors runs good, no problems and VTEC hits nicely.
New NGK plugs,New wires.
#6
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Re: (ludesrv)
A cold engine needs more fuel, the ECT (TW) sensor has high authority on fuel delivery in open loop operation, they are a wear and tear item, just change it out, its not expensive and yes the other cleaning ideas above are great advice too.
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#8
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Re: (ludesrv)
I had my injectors cleaned before install from kg parts.
I could adjust my valves for fun. Whats the spec on the valves for jdm b16a?
I knew eacv was not my problem.
I could adjust my valves for fun. Whats the spec on the valves for jdm b16a?
I knew eacv was not my problem.
#9
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Re: (alscrx)
UPDATE-
Ok i switched out my Coolant sensor or TW. I took my old one from the d15b6 engine and swaped it with the b16 one. Both are obd0 so i assumed its fine since they plug and play. I switched them before i started the car to see if i could notice a difference,
NOTHING, Still hard to start!!! And still no CEL. What else could cause a hard start?? Could it be the vac lines?? Anyone with a current pic of there b16 vac line setup. Don't post all those old vac pics that are all over when u search cause i have seen them all. Even the factory b16 manual diagram.
Car still runs good with no problems but that.
Ok i switched out my Coolant sensor or TW. I took my old one from the d15b6 engine and swaped it with the b16 one. Both are obd0 so i assumed its fine since they plug and play. I switched them before i started the car to see if i could notice a difference,
NOTHING, Still hard to start!!! And still no CEL. What else could cause a hard start?? Could it be the vac lines?? Anyone with a current pic of there b16 vac line setup. Don't post all those old vac pics that are all over when u search cause i have seen them all. Even the factory b16 manual diagram.
Car still runs good with no problems but that.
#12
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Re: (Duane_in_Japan)
cap and rotor or fuel filter. it sounds like if you have to prime it twice and it starts not enough fuel is getting in to start it. just a guess
#14
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Re: (alscrx)
Car started fine with old motor. Think stock pump is not enough for b16??
Only thing i didn't change was cap and rotor cause nobody has the 90-91 teg cap and rotor in stock. Checked auto zone and pep boys....nothing!!
Only thing i didn't change was cap and rotor cause nobody has the 90-91 teg cap and rotor in stock. Checked auto zone and pep boys....nothing!!
#15
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Vacuum will cause irratic idle, not hard start.
Only thing that start and engine is fuel, air and compression. When your engine is cold, you are missing too much of the three, more then likely fuel. Triple check your fuel sytem.
Take a picture of your engine bay, makes it easier to see the swap/possible issues.
Only thing that start and engine is fuel, air and compression. When your engine is cold, you are missing too much of the three, more then likely fuel. Triple check your fuel sytem.
Take a picture of your engine bay, makes it easier to see the swap/possible issues.
#17
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Re: (alscrx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alscrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would too much slack in the throttle cable cause any problems???</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. That would just make the response of the pedal different.
Did you calibrate your tps? Usually used engine from importers have broken TPS sensors due to there location.
No. That would just make the response of the pedal different.
Did you calibrate your tps? Usually used engine from importers have broken TPS sensors due to there location.
#18
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Re: (ludesrv)
TPS perfect after replacement and adjustment. This has to be much simpler cause the car runs and drives great.
Modified by alscrx at 12:29 PM 10/16/2007
Modified by alscrx at 12:29 PM 10/16/2007
#19
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Re: (alscrx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alscrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">TPS perfect after replacement and adjustment. This has to be much simpler cause the car runs and srives great.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What does it idle at when cold? 1500?
What does it idle at when cold? 1500?
#22
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fuel is ur problem...when its cold the fuel does not attomize as easy as it is when its warm out. could be the fuel filter is not allowing enough fule in....good luck man.
#23
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Re: (cr-x-91)
So what do i do if its the fuel filter? Its not old at all maybe a few months
Could my fuel filter lines be crossed?? ANYONe with pics of there fuel filteR??
Could my fuel filter lines be crossed?? ANYONe with pics of there fuel filteR??
#25
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Re: (Duane_in_Japan)
Should i do this when i first start it or when the motor is warmed up and running??
If my plugs were incorrectly gapped could this be my problem?
Also i have an aftermarket gas cap, could that be the problem also? When i remove the cap it does not make the hissing noise that it used to with the factory one. That could be fuel pressure when i first crank it????
If my plugs were incorrectly gapped could this be my problem?
Also i have an aftermarket gas cap, could that be the problem also? When i remove the cap it does not make the hissing noise that it used to with the factory one. That could be fuel pressure when i first crank it????