smfq189ef

1600 for a ef with no a/c?

CarPassion

I think it costs 250+cost of tires.I advice you to pay your attention on online shops or even eBay.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

It's a lot of work if it even checks out. The head may be warped. Sounds like a solid car for a project/motor swap, but a bad flipper.

SlowWhite_EG

Excessive center feed with nissan 90mm tb?

Bikewhorder

I recently purchased a JDM 1.6 SOHC engine to replace the one in my '89 RT wagon and when I removed the dual carbs I found that one of my intake valve sets were badly rusted (see pic). When I tried to turn the engine over with a breaker bar on the nut for the main pulley I found that I could not get it to move. I immediately called the place I got the motor from but they have tried to assure me that this is normal and I just need to "blow off the rust with compressed air" and put some penetrating oil in the cylinders. My response is that this engine is junk and I want my $700 dollars back. Who's right?

cleansi

looks really bad.
ive had motors sit and pulled some from the yard that had water in them but,
if it wont turn over and is seized up and looked like that i would too!

4drEF

I think you need to pull the oil pan and take a look at the crank.
If you can't get the crank to budge, there might be something very wrong with the engine.

Otherwise, the importer has a point.
Used engines are not sold under the pretense of being anywhere near perfect.
It should be in running condition which yours may very well be after doing what they tell you to do.

90 Si Hatch

looks like to me that it had water sitting in it for a long time, you can see the level line!

i live near ATL and use a place called NAD Auto. check them out and see if they ship if you get your money back. i have bought 4 engines from they for various cars and all of them are still running to this day. National Auto Distributors, Corporation

Riceburner247

iTrader: (1)

Before I saw the pics I was thinking "I've put diesel down into the combustion chambers to free stuck pistons, no big deal." Then I saw the pics.

Holy ****.

I wouldn't touch that motor any further, just get a refund or an exchange. That rust on the valve stems is HORRIBLE. "Blowing it out with compressed air" isn't going to do a damn thing to make it better. Those valve stems would take out the valve seals in an instant, not to mention send all the rust flakes into the cylinders. Not sure where you bought it from or under what pretense but if that's supposed to be a low mileage, good running motor, it's not.

Like I said, I wouldn't touch the motor any further for fear of them claiming you tampered with something, voiding all warranties. Send them your pics and see what they say.

BADFISH859

that is going to royally screw up valve guides right there... Have the replace the motor or get you're money back.

Bikewhorder

This is what I received in an email after I sent them the pictures

I was talking to my mechanic and he mentioned that since the only port that has some rust is the one close to the throttle body, moisture has gone through the intake (throttle). What you can do is blow the rust one with a compressor unit. Open the valve cover and just double check that the valves are moving when you turn it. The engine is still good.

I messed with the motor tonight and got it turning (after a good bit of force was applied) but the valves stayed put, so I took off the valve cover and spun it and discovered that the key must have sheared at the cam because the gear is turning but the cam is not. I also removed the oil pan just out of curiosity and it looks "ok". There is some rust on the one connecting rod and the oil was like a chocolate milk color and consistency but its possible the bottom end is not a loss. I'm still demanding some compensation. This is clearly not a motor that passed a compression test as advertised.

BADFISH859

If it looks like chocolate milk in the oil pan, it has a blown head gasket. If water was sitting on top of the oil that's a different story. Mean's the motor at some point was stored outside and water got into the motor. Since water and oil are mixed that means the motor was running when water entered the oil system.

4drEF

Engine is forked.
If you pulled the head or scoped through the spark plugs hole, I bet that one cylinder has completely rusted walls.
The milkshake was the winner. Water made it past the rings and likely rusted them to the cylinder walls which probably was the culprit for seizing the motor.

Still though, the place you bought it from is telling you how to get it running and it probably will run. It really needs a full tear down and rebuild, but if the company you bought it from is shady then they won't care.

crxguy406

That engine never should have shipped, especially for that price.

Please share which company you bought this from so I can stay the F*** away from them. (Assuming they fight you on a refund, to be fair.)

aaron-peterson

i was wanting to get some feedback on the price to get a new or used back window for my 90 civic hatch?

bheinen74

I bought 2 in the past year and a half.
The entire rear hatch at a Colorado pull n pick junkyard was 115 (hatch was 90, the strut arms were 10, and the rear wiper motor was 15)

I then bought one in the color code I needed for 70 at a MN pick n pull

Sold the first one for 90
those prices are about right, you can go to car-part.com and see also

michalski410

I can get my hands on a b20b block
with a gsr head complete motor for 1300
Is that to expensive it is all assembled
Already dizzy and altenator comes w
Let me knobif its worth it

That1guyinvegas

What is the average price I should pay for a 89-91 (Just don't want an 88) Civic EF or CRX shell (No Engine or tranny, or blown engine/tranny) with an exterior body in great condition?

Woogies

I recently bought a 1991 CRX for a winter driver (Chicago area) because the VW is going into hibernation. The prices are so all over the board on these I'm not even sure I got a good deal.

125k, owner claims that it's been regularly maintained and cared for by a 'dealer'. It was a teenager who also claims it was his parents before he got it, so I took everything he said with a large grain of salt.... Engine bay looks free of leaks and doesn't appear to be burning oil. "New starter and radiator". Tires in good enough shape. Newer exhaust. Everything is original except the radio and rims.

Paint is fair, but there is rust in the usual places. Bubbling above the wheel wells, and some in quarter panels and rusted out rear bumper. Undercarriage is actually fairly clean. Back hatch doesn't appear to have any leaks. Interior is in good shape. Just missing that back cover. Interior is very good, but does need a good cleaning

Hasn't been on the lift yet, but I've detected a few issues. First off the clutch feels hard and mushy, apparently it was replaced 4 years ago, but honestly either they didn't know what they were doing or used a cheap clutch (Or Bad clutch cable?). The front drivers seat has seen better days. There also seems to be an issue with a front ball joint. Some shaking in the wheel over 45mph, which I suspect, is a wheel balancing issue. Engine seems to purr quite nicely though.

I paid $2000. A decent deal? I check out CL and I was finding some with twice the mileage and 'riced out' (in a bad way) going for $2500-$3000. My original plan was to spend less than $1500 for a beater/daily, so I want to be reassured with my extra expense

jsinher3

how much can i sell these for, they are brand new but suffered a slight shipping damage, has a hairline crack on the top of the lens you cant see it if once it is installed but still.

thatRobguy

[QUOTE=BlueHatch91;47913454]I just picked up a 1991 Honda Civic Hatchback Base with the 1.5L - 4speed trans. The car has around 172k although it seems to run pretty well. What it needs; Exhaust repaired, New Radiator, Water pump is making a noise?, CV axle on passenger side (It clicks), I think the rear passenger side tire has a bad wheel bearing, It grinds bad. I had to replace the seals around the spark plug holes that sit under the valve cover. One was bad and was causing oil to leak down into the hole (I think that's what it was). The reason I thought it was the seals - The car has decent compression, the leak was on cylinder 2, these are my comp test results

Cylinder 1 - 160
Cylinder 2 - 180 (Can't be bad rings or valve seals?)
Cylinder 3 - 160
Cylinder 4 - 180

So far I'm 1050$ into the car after a complete tune up and oil change. After all these little repairs I will be right around 1800~2000$, Is it worth it?

On a side note, I am going to replace the radiator, water pump and timing belt, what brands should i get? the car is all stock and I plan on keeping it that way through college, Also does anyone have a center console for a 94-00 teg and a **** for sale?



Bought my wife this car in white with 105k two years ago in Virginia for $2300 and haven't regretted it in the least. Girl we bought it from did her own work, and wasn't a bad mechanic, this car was her old man that she babied. I would do a couple short oil change intervals, I run like 2k intervals on my wife's, to try and clean some carbon out of the engine. Pray it does a miracle and frees up a sticky ring for compression. . . But not likely. Probably just wear in the bores. Not sure about oil feed in these, I work on a ton of Subarus at work, #4 is the last to get oil and guess which piston gets beat and has scoring. . . I think you did alright. And if nothing else, everyone you drive past thinks your car is a rocket. Lol

croeybadass

Hello gang, So i am new here too the forum and jdm/usdm scene in general. So i just go to college right now, and i work 15 hours a week which is enough to pay for del taco and taco bell meals and i go to the food bank. I need a good running car and i can only afford cars off craigslist. I love the EF's and they are in my price range of about 1900$ The thing is that i don't know anything about cars or mechanics except changing the oil and stuff like that.

I am wondering if i will be fucked over on a craigslist car? Here are the links to the EF's i was interested in.

1990 Honda Civic sedan 5-speed

1991 civic 4 door

Honda Civic EF Sedan

honda civic sedan clean title low miles current tags


What is the likely hood of me getting fucked over? and what i mean is that I buy the car they say it runs good, and a week later it breaks down and im screwed because i can't pay for anything right now. My friend payed 3800 for a ITR front end b20 acura integra, he was driving it on the way back and the whole car shut off, turns out it had an electrical problem which cost him $1000, i don't want a scenario like that so please give some advice guys thank you.

F22Who

I would say for the most part you get what you pay for. People who take care of their EF's will obviously not just let it go for nothing. Given your price range, I would say you will probably be buying one that has some issues so it comes down to a bit of common sense. Just my two cents if I was in school and didn't have much of an income, check fluids or lack there of, you will probably find a lot with minor oil leaks, but the motor shouldn't look like it has been washed with oil. A new motor will be a huge setback so just pay close attention to it, how it runs, idles etc... if the motor goes out, with a lack of money you will be stuck with a huge paperweight. Test drive the car and make sure to let it get up to running temp and give it a few good test pulls. A lot of people will try to sell cars that have problems once it warms up and not tell you in hopes you will just drive away and find out later ( like the thermostat is stuck closed and your car overheats ). As long as you use good common sense, you will not need a whole lot of mechanical prowess. If it sounds like crap, runs like crap, smells like crap...its probably crap. Unfortunately I'm at work and the firewall here blocks craigslist as "shopping" (which is absurd, you can't actually buy anything) so I cant check out your ads.

James89DX

I find it hard to believe an Integra (or ANY Honda from this era) had a genuinely needed $1,000 worth of "electrical problems" repair. Honda and Acura parts are so relatively abundant and inexpensive that there is never any reason to pay that much for dubious "electrical problems" when a full good harness could have been swapped for not much trouble at all if you're even remotely mechanically inclined.

Granted I'm unfortunately not at all surprised that a shop charged him that much, but your friend didn't NEED to spend that much. The shop clearly exaggerated the problem and inflated the price big time. So what I'm getting at is that I wouldn't let that scare you away. The warning you should take from him is to not get suckered by a repair shop.

James89DX

And personally I would choose the first or the last on your list with a preference of the last one. I prefer unmolested cars. When you buy swapped or molested cars from ricers and you don't REALLY know your stuff, you open yourself up to headaches like your friend experienced.

Stock black/gray one would be my choice. Buy it, and you've got $500 leftover should you need any repairs or maintenance on it or want to do a few mods