childishthing

This will be an ongoing thread, but today it starts with my first real project.



I got the car last month, and I've been in the process of fixing the dumb **** the previous owner did to it. I've already removed the 17" wheels w/ lo-pros it came with(replaced w/ 14's on 60 series sidewalls), and tuned up the suspension a bit. It has Megan Racing coil-overs, but the toe was out of wack in a ridiculous way (car wasn't level from side to side either)... could barely stay on the road. He'd also found a can of gold spray paint that he then used on the calipers, intake, valve cover, shift ****... you get the idea. Anyway...

I've got 2 JL Audio 12W7's that need to go in soon, and to make way for the enclosure, amp rack, and second battery, I've decided to do a rear-seat delete. A little controversial from most people I've talked to, but I'm going to do this right and not cut any corners - it'll look sick.

Here goes.



Removed the seat bottom, and backrests. This took less than five minutes and in retrospect was the worst part of the project because it gave me an unrealistic expectation of how the rest would play out.

Seat belt buckles were secured by one bolt each and were relatively easy to get out as well.



Next to come out was the rear strut-brace & plastics. If you're contemplating this project, take your time - there are a lot of clips and screws and the plastic is pretty flimsy. If you miss one and start tugging you could break **** fairly easy.




The bags contain the seat belts & hardware. Held up in the C pillar by three bolts; 2 large and 1 smaller bolt.



Okay, moving along...


After you get the seats out, you're left with this big bracket sticking up out of the middle of the floor. If you choose to remove this, this is the 'point of no return'; remove it, and seats can never safely be put back in.

As for the hacksaw - my only other alternative was a Sawzall with a wood-cutting blade. But I took my time (used a lot of WD40 for lubrication) and ended up with a very clean cut, very close to the edge of the floor. I'm quite happy with how it turned out.


Nothing really relevant here, except the 1st Gen RX-7 in the background and large amounts of dirt EVERYWHERE.






COPIOUS amounts of dirt. Copious; that's your word of the day.

With the bracket gone, the delete was officially finished. The next step was to start cleaning up - which took almost as much time as everything I'd done so far.

All said and done, the whole project took about 8 hours. Started at about 9:30, and finished about 6pm (this includes giving the car a bath).
Here's the results.

gnarlycs

I like the style of this build thread.

bluedragon

Make sure you put a good amount of reno matt.

bluedragon

Dyno

JDM-sol 89

So, now that you can't properly put the back seats back in, what do you plan on doing if you someday decide to sell the car?

Bix VT

Nice build thread. You may want to change the name though so people don't get it confused with this one: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/official-what-you-did-your-eg-ek-today-thread-2631207/

childishthing

Thanks man!

Almost everything in the back will be covered by sound deadener for sure - I don't use Dynamat though. I've been installing for years and I've found the best way to stop vibration & block outside noise is by using a product called Peel & Seal (found at Lowes). It's a mastic roof coating which consists of 5 layers, is waterproof, even works well in inverted applications. It works every bit as good as Dynamat, but costs less than half the price.

Selling this car was never going to be an option from the day I bought it. She's a salvage title, and I got it super cheap with the intention of building it the way I want it. But say for pretend I ever did need to sell it - I'd be up front and say, "This is the car, she doesn't have back seats & you can't ever put back seats in." Done. People sell cars with a lot more wrong with 'em than that and if they are honest when selling, it's usually not an issue to the right buyer. One mans trash is another mans treasure.

Thanks! Lol! I think people will figure it out, after all - mine isn't ***Official***

EDIT: Looks like someone changed it for me lol!

childishthing

Today was a bit bust, I should have chose something else to do.

Okay, so I mentioned the PO went berserk with a can of gold spray paint... it's so embarrassing, I put off changing the oil just to keep from looking at it. Kidding (sort of).

Here's the damage.





Okay, so the PLAN was to remove the gold paint from the CAI & valve cover, and repaint each. Gold to blue for the CAI, and gold to white for the valve cover.


Took the CAI out and the valve cover off - nice opportunity to check for issues w/ valves. Looked alright actually, I was surprised to not find gold paint there too.

I also adjusted my throttle cable and cleaned the throttle-body while I was in there.

Anyways...

After scuffing at the valve cover with sandpaper for a while, I eventually had to call it quits. Despite the fact it was cracking in some areas, it was baked on pretty good on the rest. I was really hoping to repaint it today. Oh well, have to wait til I have access to a sandblaster. I was thinking about using paint-stripper, but I have qualms about getting corrosive chemicals so close to where my engine oil is. Maybe I'll do it anyway.

BUT - I still got to repaint the CAI.


Sanded


Tied up


This is after two light coats.


About five coats.


Finished product, with the scuffed but still gold valve cover.

gnarlycs

That blue color is great for the CAI. I'm curious though, what engine is that? Oh and I just noticed - no A/C?!

childishthing

Thanks! I'm pretty happy with the turnout. It's a D15B7, and no - no A/C

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

i like where this is going

gnarlycs

You don't plan on doing an engine swap? Cause that engine isn't really a good engine to do performance work to, IMO. :p

childishthing

DUDE thanks!

Wow, um...that's a really good question, with a big answer. Here goes.

Simple answer, no. I don't plan on doing an engine swap. Here are my reasons:

1. Power goals - My power goals are modest. The mods that are on the car currently will be the only engine mods until maybe next summer/fall. My goal is between 175-200whp, but I already have a plan to get there and don't need an engine swap to do it.

The current plan is to do two major engine projects;
1st - I will do the VTEC swap (or Mini-Me)
2nd - I'm going to turbo the car using a TD05H-14B turbocharger found on the first-generation Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon.

2. Budget - The two above projects combined will only cost me about $1,500, and I can do all the work myself. Also, there is the matter of the D15... I can find used D15's all day, every day for under $500 in good running condition. That can't be said of ANY B-series motor, and I've learned that the hard way. Not to mention that my fiance's civic also uses the D15.

3. Convenience - I live within 50 miles of five "you pull it" type salvage yards that frequently have 92-95 Civics. Anything I swap into my car is only going to make me have to drive farther, make more phone calls, order stuff online - or even - *gasp* - visit the Honda Dealership.

4. I like doing things different - As far as power is concerned, I will hit my goal without a problem. And it'll be neat having a Turbo D15B with VTEC & 200hp
And when I've had the car forever and the motor dies, I can buy another D15 and start over.

Here's the other thing, not really anything to do with why I'm not engine swapping, but more my order of operations. I'm a firm believer that the car should handle good before you make it go fast, so I have in store a lot of handling upgrades that will be going in before any of the fun engine stuff. Bushings, better suspension, etc.

Thanks again man, really good question - hope I answered it good.

jbpnoman

You'll love the 14B. I've been running a 19T for a while now, spool is fast, low end power is definitely there, and they're good for up to ~26PSI on a built motor.

silasthemac

a/c , a/c? we don't need no stinking a/c!

gnarlycs

Well that was a good answer and it got me thinking. I have a D16Y7 in mine and I always said I'm not gonna do any engine mods because that engine is a fuel economy engine. And all I want to do right now is body work and suspension. I agree with you completely on a car should handle well before it goes fast. I think I'll do the same as you and set a modest goal for power out of my D16 and forget engine swaps until I get a better income. :p

childishthing

Yeah, after researching it seems like the best mate for the D15/16 motors, and they're way easy to come across. That project is a long ways away, but I have plenty of fun stuff to do until then... stay tuned!

Haha!

Right on. A good looking car that handles well will reward you more than power will when it comes to driving on curvy roads.

Solidis

I likE your answer I have A 1995 Honda civic vtec.. I was gunna drop a H22 already .. (It's automatic for now) but I think I'm gunna wait in learn as much as I can before making changes..

childishthing

Thanks!


Quick update - tomorrow is payday, which means I can start the sound-deadening project on Saturday... I will post photos as I go. I will also take some video for those of you who are curious of the before and after difference in road noise.

gnarlycs

Make sure to take quite a few pictures of this because I'm curious as to where you are going to be putting the patches and why (the most effective). :p

94preludeguy

Go with a T25 over the 14b. Will make charge piping fabrication 1000x easier since you won't have to utilize the j-pipe.

ej#ALLDAY

after i saw that first picture i was like lol..to see it automatically go in a nice direction was very relieving
damn..2 12s huh.. gonna be a rumble box

childishthing

It's still very much a possibility. The T25 is in my top 3 choices for a turbo.
I've worked with it before and really like the spool speed, but on D15/16 applications it won't hold strong power to redline and the peak power is lacking a bit. Not a deal-breaker though.
The 14b (IMO) is the best match for the D15/16 powerplant; the spool speed is only slightly later than the T25, and it will hold strong power all the way to redline. I've worked with the 14b's before also, but I do agree the J pipes on most DSM applications is a bit more work. But a point that a friend of mine made a couple years ago is that most people with 2nd Gen Eclipses usually change out thier T25 for the older 14b anyway...
My 3rd choice is the undersized T3 found on SAABs, with .42/.48 A/R configuration.


Umm... thanks, I think

nuckles

i will be posting my build thread once i am a full member on HT i have to wait those 15 days -___-

ej#ALLDAY

much like a lifetime