clean95hatch

Car: 1995 EG hatch DX, manual steering. 98% stock. No mods up front

There was a minor tapping in the front end. It was only noticeable over severe small bumps, like washboard areas. the front end would clunk around like it had some loose bolts it seemed like. I discarded it to needing new ball joints.

So I bought both (2) upper and (2) lower ball joints for my car. I also bought new tie rods because my steering had a slight bit of play that I didn't like.
I rented a ball joint press kit from Advance Auto Parts since I quickly realized it was pretty much impossible to do the work otherwise.

I finally press the old ball joints out, and put the new ones in. Looking back, I am a bit concerned that maybe the opening/hole where the lower ball joint presses in may have fatigued a bit and stretched?

Anyway, I replaced driver's upper and lower ball joints, and inner and outer tie rods. I replaced passenger upper ball joint, didn't have time for lower, but did replace inner and outer tie rod. I put everything back together and took it for a drive. It drove very well. The pass. ball joint still clunked a bit, but it handled much better and was quieter.
Then, about 3 days later, on a cold morning, a much louder clunking appeared. It was much more pronounced. Then it went away when the day warmed up. Then it came back the next day and never went away. It clunks all the time, except on the smoothest of roads. I can feel it in the steering wheel, and the footwell.
I have jacked up the car several times and checked everything. I yanked on everything I can think of. Nothing is loose

I think my only option is to disassemble everything in the driver's front end and see if the ball joint popped out of place, but I was hoping maybe there are other ideas?

wicked_gk

possible sway bar end links or even a wheel bearing. Does this only happen when the car is moving or stationary? Have you changed any suspension parts recently?

clean95hatch

My car doesn't have a front sway bar as it's a DX. Wheel bearings are very solid when I try to push on the wheel on the top or bottom, or doesn't move at all.

I'm not sure what you mean "when the car is moving or stationary". Of course when it's moving...nothing would happen while it's stationary.

Yes, I have replaced suspension parts recently. 3 of the 4 ball joints. But I haven't replaced shocks/struts or anything like that.

wicked_gk

well im not going to assume that it wont clunk when its parked, that is very possible. I've had this happen in the past where it was the strut dust cover causing clunking. Worth taking a look at that

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Maybe a LCA bushing or a bad shock.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

So you've done the 12/6 wiggle test? Did you do a 3/9 wiggle test? Have you done a bounce test?

clean95hatch

Possibly the cause. I did take a quick look at the condition of bushings in my front end. Nothing is "torn" persay, but most of them are starting to dry rot and crack. I'm going to order an Energy Suspension bushings kit and replace all the bushings on my car.
How are the opinions on this Energy Suspensions kit btw? I've heard it caused a stiffer, less comfortable ride?

12/6 wiggle test is beyond solid. No give, whatsoever. 3/9 wiggle test: there is still a small degree of play in the system. When I wiggle the wheel 3/9, the steering wheel also moves.

I read another thread where it seemed like a guy had a similar issue. He checked his steering rack over and over to find that it actually had some front-to-back play that was difficult to detect. I'm afraid this might be my issue. But I would hate to think that a Honda steering rack would go bad after only 155k miles?
Does anyone know of a way to check for this type of play^?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You're supposed to lock the steering wheel so that it doesn't move before doing a 3/9 test. How about the bounce test? It's the simplest of them all.