Testing ECUs outside of cars?
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Testing ECUs outside of cars?
Okay, maybe someone can shed some light on some problems I've been having on testing ECUs outside of cars.
I've got two 'perfectly good' ECU's that I'm trying to test, a P06 and P28. When I put +12v on A25 and ground on A24 and A26, Everything seems fine. The ECU will like act normal; the fuel pump output grounds out and the MIL output comes on. I ground out the service check input and I only get 6(IAT), 10(CLT), 20(ELD) and a 22(Vtec pressure switch) on the P28. NOTHING is connected except 12v, gnd, a relay for the fuel pump, a light, and grounded out service input. WTH?? Where are all the other ones? Am I doing it right?
edit:
the only thing I can think of is that the eld code is fugging things up. I'm gonna burn another chip real quick without the eld enabled
I've got two 'perfectly good' ECU's that I'm trying to test, a P06 and P28. When I put +12v on A25 and ground on A24 and A26, Everything seems fine. The ECU will like act normal; the fuel pump output grounds out and the MIL output comes on. I ground out the service check input and I only get 6(IAT), 10(CLT), 20(ELD) and a 22(Vtec pressure switch) on the P28. NOTHING is connected except 12v, gnd, a relay for the fuel pump, a light, and grounded out service input. WTH?? Where are all the other ones? Am I doing it right?
edit:
the only thing I can think of is that the eld code is fugging things up. I'm gonna burn another chip real quick without the eld enabled
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Re: Testing ECUs outside of cars?
well usually if the ECU is clean inside it 99 percent of the time will work.. i found corrosion in mine recently which was pry from the person who had it before me.. No wonder i had all the electrical problems!
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Re: Testing ECUs outside of cars?
yeah, they're both in perfect condition. What even stranger I have an OBD1 PR4 with a crap ton of gunk and corrosion on it and it does the EXACT same thing. I'm starting to think that it's me and not the computers. I've always thought the ECUs would give me tons of codes.
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Re: Testing ECUs outside of cars?
Originally Posted by Arcitekt
Get a test motor in the garage with a stand
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Re: Testing ECUs outside of cars?
OK, here's the details:
What I'm using:
A1-Inj. 1 -Goes to gnd
A2-Inj. 4 -To gnd
A3-Inj. 2 -To gnd
A4-VTAK -12v Out
A5-Inj. 3 -To gnd
A6-O2 Heater -To gnd
A7-Fuelpump relay -To gnd
A9-IACV -To gnd
A13-CEL
A16-Alternator Control
A21-ICM
A22-ICM -Tied to A21
A23-GND -Power
A24-GND -Power, Tied to A24
A25-12v
A26-GND -Logic
B1-12v -Tied to A25
B2-GND -Logic, Tied to A26
B9-Starter Signal Switch
B10-VSS
B11-CYP P orange
B12-CYP M white
B13-TDC P org/blue
B14-TDC M wht/blue
B15-CKP P blu/green
B16-CKP M blu/yel
C for autos
D1-ECU Backup 12v
D4-Service Jumper
D6-VTEC pressure switch
D9-Alternator FR Charge signal
D10-ELD
D11-TPS
D13-ECT
D14-O2 Signal
D15-IAT
D17-MAP
D19-Map Sensor Voltage-5v
D20-TPS Sensor Voltage-5v
D21-Sensor Ground, Thermostat G101
D22-Sensor Ground, Thermostat G101
I have power on A25, GND on A24 and A26, A13 for the CEL, relay on A7 for fuel pump, and D4 tied to ground.
Deleting the ELD in crome did nothing except remove the code, I'm still getting only 6,10, and 22 (clt,iat, vtec pressure switch).
Does anyone have any idea why nothing else is showing?? i have no freakin clue AT ALL
What I'm using:
A1-Inj. 1 -Goes to gnd
A2-Inj. 4 -To gnd
A3-Inj. 2 -To gnd
A4-VTAK -12v Out
A5-Inj. 3 -To gnd
A6-O2 Heater -To gnd
A7-Fuelpump relay -To gnd
A9-IACV -To gnd
A13-CEL
A16-Alternator Control
A21-ICM
A22-ICM -Tied to A21
A23-GND -Power
A24-GND -Power, Tied to A24
A25-12v
A26-GND -Logic
B1-12v -Tied to A25
B2-GND -Logic, Tied to A26
B9-Starter Signal Switch
B10-VSS
B11-CYP P orange
B12-CYP M white
B13-TDC P org/blue
B14-TDC M wht/blue
B15-CKP P blu/green
B16-CKP M blu/yel
C for autos
D1-ECU Backup 12v
D4-Service Jumper
D6-VTEC pressure switch
D9-Alternator FR Charge signal
D10-ELD
D11-TPS
D13-ECT
D14-O2 Signal
D15-IAT
D17-MAP
D19-Map Sensor Voltage-5v
D20-TPS Sensor Voltage-5v
D21-Sensor Ground, Thermostat G101
D22-Sensor Ground, Thermostat G101
I have power on A25, GND on A24 and A26, A13 for the CEL, relay on A7 for fuel pump, and D4 tied to ground.
Deleting the ELD in crome did nothing except remove the code, I'm still getting only 6,10, and 22 (clt,iat, vtec pressure switch).
Does anyone have any idea why nothing else is showing?? i have no freakin clue AT ALL
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Re: Testing ECUs outside of cars?
yeah, they're both in perfect condition. What even stranger I have an OBD1 PR4 with a crap ton of gunk and corrosion on it and it does the EXACT same thing. I'm starting to think that it's me and not the computers. I've always thought the ECUs would give me tons of codes.
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Re: Testing ECUs outside of cars?
lol, wtf are you talking about? That is pure sig material. I think you misunderstood a little. It's on my bench, hooked up to a power supply and lighting LEDs.
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Re: Testing ECUs outside of cars?
You said you have corrosion ON it but that woulnt effect the ecu unless there was corrosion INSIDE IT as in opening it up to expose the IC board.
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Re: Testing ECUs outside of cars?
Naw, I meant on the board., but it still works as far as I know. The problem is that I only get these few codes when nothing else is connected.
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Re: Testing ECUs outside of cars?
hmm well corrosion tends to short things out I had a few codes my ecu threw and it still ran the car but once the corrosion starts its like unstoppable but you may try to remove the corrosion with a toothbrush and test it after youve remove the corrosion. I used that method on my ipod after it being waterlogged and it worked
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Re: Testing ECUs outside of cars?
hmm well corrosion tends to short things out I had a few codes my ecu threw and it still ran the car but once the corrosion starts its like unstoppable but you may try to remove the corrosion with a toothbrush and test it after youve remove the corrosion. I used that method on my ipod after it being waterlogged and it worked
I can't find any info on what should they be throwing with nothing attached except for just power.
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