kabaroo

im trying to find TDC on my d16z6 head.

there are some arrows (3) and the word "up" im assuming that the word up should be pointed straight up at TDC. I have done that. I have but one problem. the #4 valves seem to be open just a little bit, i mean all 4 valves are open. Just a little bit tho.

My Head and short block are separated. I thought it would be easier to put them at TDC before bolting them together.

The #1 and #4 pistons are all the way up.

Also i am refering to #1 cylinder and the one on the cam gear side and #4 on the dizzy side.

kabaroo

its a built head by JG and a built block w/ SRP pistons too if that matters.

JDMisGOOD

Since i'm not there to help you buddy... here is some pictures for you!

JDMisGOOD

all 4 valves on cylinder number 4 are open? hows number 1 look?

Ignitecivic

i forgot how the valves are open but as long as ur cam gear is set like the pic above, ur good

kabaroo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMisGOOD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all 4 valves on cylinder number 4 are open? hows number 1 look?</TD></TR></TABLE>

#1 they are all closed. And the cam gear looks like the pic above.
As for the crank, done you just want the #1,4 pistons ALL the way up? I dont have the timing belt cover on as of now. ill put it on and check.

Im just wondering why all 4 valves are slightly open, could something be wrong? btw this is a fresh head, 0 miles.

EJ1 wilcox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ignitecivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i forgot how the valves are open but as long as ur cam gear is set like the pic above, ur good </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup... position the cam gear like the picture and you should be fine.

kabaroo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yup... position the cam gear like the picture and you should be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool, thanks.


One last Question. Are all D series cams such a pain to turn? i cannot turn it by hand.

JDMisGOOD

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kabaroo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

cool, thanks.


One last Question. Are all D series cams such a pain to turn? i cannot turn it by hand.</TD></TR></TABLE>
think that little cam has to open all 16 of the valves by it self... you need to get it a friend!

kabaroo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMisGOOD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">think that little cam has to open all 16 of the valves by it self... you need to get it a friend! </TD></TR></TABLE>

But i have no friends... Its not that hard to turn anymore. With my old timing belt wrapped around the gear and a pry bar i can move it.

I didnt even realize that was you giving my advise till now!

thanks jordan

JDMisGOOD

lol i was saying your cam needs a friend... literally put...get a DOHC! Hopefully this week we shall see what kind of numbers joeys car puts down... as long as his clutch hangs on...

kabaroo

yea, he stopped by today and he thought the clutch might be dying.

I see what you mean by "get it a friend". Thats not gunna happen, this year at least.

Morning Call

u can use a screw driver

stick it in the holes in the cam gear and u should be able to use a lip on the engine as leverage
thats what i had to do after i stripped the **** out of my cam bolt.. btw anyone got any ideas how to replace that cam bolt? i was thinking best way would likely be to weld a socket onto it.. or just drill out a peice of metal, slip it over the bolt head, and weld it then crank it...

when i say stripped i mean its stripped.. pretty much round..

kabaroo

you could use a grinder of some sort to grind a slit in the bolt so you could use a big flathead screw driver, but then you wouldnt get much leverage on the bolt....

weld a socket on!