Still confused on testing knock sensor
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Still confused on testing knock sensor
So I searched about how to test a knock sensor (b16 motor) and am still kind of confused. I am trying to not get too in over my head so as of now I just removed the im nuts so I could at least get at the knock sensor to remove it. It seems there is a way to hook up a tester light (after removing the ks) and I wasn't sure if anyone on here had tried this.
I was also wondering if the knock sensor going bad would be the most logical explanation for running a code 23, or if it is not common for the ks to go bad. I guess being that it is just the sensor and 1 wire, that the problem would have to be one of the two, but I didn't know if there could be ANY reason that there could be another problem causing this light.
The car, by all practical standards seems to run normally, and I haven't driven it enough this season to notice any loss in mpg (I just drove it "around the block", well that being about 3 miles). I would also assume that if there were actual knocking in the block, that it would be audible. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I can't wait to sell the car to pay off some debt!!
-Shane
I was also wondering if the knock sensor going bad would be the most logical explanation for running a code 23, or if it is not common for the ks to go bad. I guess being that it is just the sensor and 1 wire, that the problem would have to be one of the two, but I didn't know if there could be ANY reason that there could be another problem causing this light.
The car, by all practical standards seems to run normally, and I haven't driven it enough this season to notice any loss in mpg (I just drove it "around the block", well that being about 3 miles). I would also assume that if there were actual knocking in the block, that it would be audible. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I can't wait to sell the car to pay off some debt!!
-Shane
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Re: Still confused on testing knock sensor
Well, thanks for the diagram RonJ! A little more than I was hoping for, but as long as I can find a multimeter lying around I think I can figure it out. Also, based on drawings, I am testing for impedance?
-Shane
-Shane
#4
Re: Still confused on testing knock sensor
You will measure resistance. Continuity indicates very low or no resistance. A basic digital multimeter ($15-$25) is fine for testing continuity.
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Re: Still confused on testing knock sensor
From the few threads I found when searching, I found that testing the wrong thing (ie resistance as opposed to voltage, etc.) could cause problems. Is this possible with a multimeter? I had one a few years ago and used it rarely, but there were like 15 different setting for it and I'm afraid of using the wrong one, so how will I know?
-Shane
-Shane
#6
Re: Still confused on testing knock sensor
Don't worry. If you use a digital multimeter set to measure resistance or continuity, then you are perfectly safe doing the tests in the diagram.
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Re: Still confused on testing knock sensor
Thanks for the help! Did you re-sign or something? I seem to remember you back from the old h-t days but it says you didn't join 'til last year?
-Shane
-Shane
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Re: Still confused on testing knock sensor
Well, I've been gone for a while, and things are a bit different. I'm not used to asking questions so this is new for me. Thanks again for the help.
-Shane
-Shane
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Re: Still confused on testing knock sensor
resistance (ohms) should only be used if the circuit has no power/electricity flowing through it. Resistance tests are only good to see if electricity is capable of flowing through whatever two terminals you're testing.
A voltage test will tell you how much electricity is flowing through a circuit.
If you run a resistance test on a powered circuit, you will blow the fuse in your multimeter.
If you run a voltage test on a circuit on an unpowered circuit, nothing will happen to your voltimeter.
A voltage test will tell you how much electricity is flowing through a circuit.
If you run a resistance test on a powered circuit, you will blow the fuse in your multimeter.
If you run a voltage test on a circuit on an unpowered circuit, nothing will happen to your voltimeter.
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