Rear drum to disc using stock trailing-arm
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Rear drum to disc using stock trailing-arm
So it's about time for me to do my rear disc conversion on my EJ. I've done it countless times before, by heading down to the local junk yard and pulling the whole trailing-arm assembly off a 90-91 integra, as they seem to be very plentiful. So as reading another post about disc / caliper setups i came across this....
So with that said, you should be able to retain the stock trailing-arm which is still attached to you vehicle, and just bolt everything else on. In theory not throwing the toe in and toe out, out of wack. Does anyone have any writeups on this procedure? I think this maybe more cost effective, because the junkyard will not charge me the full trailing-arm cost.
You do NOT need the entire trailing arm; ALL 88-00 civics and 90-01 Integras take the same shaped trailing arm. You need only the spindle, which is attached by a 24mm nut, and four T50 torx bolts. Please note that most swap the entire trailing arm because those torx bolts are in there VERY firmly. I have banged the hell out of a hammer and impact and still had them stay. I advise air tools, because even with all my weight and brute force, they may not come out. Brake lines may be stubborn if your car is older and rusty
#2
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Re: Rear drum to disc using stock trailing-arm
people jus take the trailing arms becuase its alot easier.
you have to undo the impossible hub nut on the rear spindle. then take a press and press out the wheel bearing/hub with brake calipers and brackets.
you have to undo the impossible hub nut on the rear spindle. then take a press and press out the wheel bearing/hub with brake calipers and brackets.
#4
Re: Rear drum to disc using stock trailing-arm
Honestly, it's not worth it.
But, Yes you don't have to use the entire trailing arm, but, it's going to be a pain to do it this way.
The way not to screw up the alignment is you can leave the toe arms connected to the car. Meaning you remove them from the trailing arm. That's really the only thing that could mess the alignment up, unless there's something wrong with the trailing arm.
I just looked and I can't find anything for it, personally I would swap the trailing arms.
Sorry for not really answering the question.
But, Yes you don't have to use the entire trailing arm, but, it's going to be a pain to do it this way.
The way not to screw up the alignment is you can leave the toe arms connected to the car. Meaning you remove them from the trailing arm. That's really the only thing that could mess the alignment up, unless there's something wrong with the trailing arm.
I just looked and I can't find anything for it, personally I would swap the trailing arms.
Sorry for not really answering the question.
#5
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Re: Rear drum to disc using stock trailing-arm
Anyway, there are actually TWO good reasons NOT to swap trailing arms. First of all, if you have recently replaced your trailing arm bushing, it is MUCH, MUCH, MUCH easier to just swap spindles than it is to swap trailing arm bushings. Swapping spindles can be done by yourself. But for most of us, swapping the trailing arm bushings is going to mean a trip to a machine shop, which means spending money to have to work done AND waiting an extra day to have the shop do the job.
The other good thing about swapping spindles rather than swapping trailing arms is that you avoid having to unbolt the trailing arm from the lower control arm. Oftentimes, this is not too much of a problem. But in SO many cases, that lower control arm bolt is seized HARD from corrosion, and any attempt to remove it will break it. And if you break it, you are going to be stuck either having to remove what's left of that difficult bolt (or paying someone else to do it) OR buying a replacement lower control arm along with the new trailing arm at the junkyard. Generally speaking, you are not going to break anything replacing the spindles.
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#6
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Re: Rear drum to disc using stock trailing-arm
rick rabies is wrong you dont need to press out anything the rear brakes are held in by a 24mm nut and four t50 torx bolts. i have personally done this swap on two cars one was my 93 civic hatch with 91 integra brakes and the other one was an 88 civic four door with 90 integra brakes. and just to let you know you can pick everything up for 75 bucks on a half off day.
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Re: Rear drum to disc using stock trailing-arm
that's what i was thinking, getting the hub vs everything including the junk yard... would be way cheaper... i may have to do this on the next 1/2 off day.
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Re: Rear drum to disc using stock trailing-arm
on a side note, you can swap the trailing arms ant not throw off the toe. Just don't loosen the adjustment bolt, use the other one to and leave the compensator arm on.
#9
Re: Rear drum to disc using stock trailing-arm
I believe I read once that the braking is actually better with drum breaks, just disk are better because they stay cooler and prevents brake fade, and they're easier to service.
Most people do just swap arms, though it's not a huge deal if you're swapping other parts at the same time.
Most people do just swap arms, though it's not a huge deal if you're swapping other parts at the same time.
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Re: Rear drum to disc using stock trailing-arm
i will tell you what when it comes time to change pads on the disc setup by far it's easier...
#12
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Re: Rear drum to disc using stock trailing-arm
As for drums being more effective than disks, this is not necessarily true. The effectiveness of discs vs drums depends on the design of each. It IS true that, for a given diameter, drum brakes are generally stronger (since all the friction surface is the same distance from the center AND since the leading shoe has a 'self energizing' effect'). But this can be compensated for by using a larger diameter disc. And the Integra rear discs are larger in diameter than Civic drums (I DON'T think Honda would actually make the Integra's rear discs weaker than the Civic's rear drums).
Of course, brake fade is the nemesis of drum brakes. Although ALL brakes can fade, drum brakes are particularly susceptible. Since the shoes are 'cooped up' in the drum, they get hot quickly and stay hot. The same is true if the shoes or inside of the drum gets wet: due to poor ventilation, they are slow to dry. Furthermore, the 'self-energizing' quality of drum brakes is particularly susceptible to loss of friction due to fade and water. So when drum brakes DO fade, they do so MUCH worse than discs.
The bottom line? There's a reason why NO automaker uses drum brakes on the front brakes. Disc brakes are better, PERIOD. The Integra brakes may be somewhat heavier than Civic drums. But we're not talking about a huge difference.
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Re: Rear drum to disc using stock trailing-arm
either way for which ones better is really negligible when you figure tops 30% of your braking ability comes from the rear brakes. its also why they're smaller then the front.
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