Oright so heres my story,
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Oright so heres my story,
just finished my b16a build up into my ej1. im using a hondata s100 on a obd1 pr4 with a d16z6 harness. motor cranks, but doesnt turn over and turn on. i dont think it would be the computer cause ive seen it work on a previous motor. i belive im getting ignition because i saw spark from the spark plugs when i took them out and grounded them while cranking the motor. im not sure if im getting fuel pressure though because i cant feel pressure build up on the fuel hose. all vaccum hoses are connected and harness plugs alternator,etc. anyone have any suggestions/clumsy stuff they forgot?
as being 16 years old and getting so far into the automotive industry im going to feel guilty as a mechnanic paying a mechanic. lol
heres my bay just so people will look because theres a pic
as being 16 years old and getting so far into the automotive industry im going to feel guilty as a mechnanic paying a mechanic. lol
heres my bay just so people will look because theres a pic
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Re: Oright so heres my story, (egb16pg)
check fuses...try a different computer....can you hear the pump cut on?..did you change the spark plugs when you did the swap?
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Re: Oright so heres my story, (egb16pg)
Check fuel and see if the injectors are getting pulses also.
fyi you need 4 things for any gas engine to run
spark
fuel
compression
proper timing
fyi you need 4 things for any gas engine to run
spark
fuel
compression
proper timing
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Re: (95gainfla)
thanks for the feedback guys.
im most likely going to see if i can get a compression tester this weekend.
but i dont think that would be a cause because i bought my motor legit from JDM of Miami and they SUPPOSIBLY compression test them and come from "running cars in japan"
yup all fuses and relays have been checked except main relay. but wouldnt my motor not even crank if it was the cause?
i hear a audible sound sort of like a buzzing when i turn the ignition switch. but im not sure if its the pump AND YES I HAVE GAS lol
and i forgot to mention, to crank the starter i need to jump the soleniod on it. but i always crank the motor on the running key ignition position. when i do it by turning the key it makes a buzzing sound, which i then relized was coming from a relay from the alarm so i thought it was defective or had been my clutch safety switch. which was neither of them(i jumped the switch and got a new relay). i have no clue what that could be either.im just concerned about the motor starting. and i know the motor should turn on in this condition because everyone does it when you have practicly dead battery.
thanks alot guys god bless
btw i know its not them alarm cause ive never had the remote to it when i had the previous motor in it.
im most likely going to see if i can get a compression tester this weekend.
but i dont think that would be a cause because i bought my motor legit from JDM of Miami and they SUPPOSIBLY compression test them and come from "running cars in japan"
yup all fuses and relays have been checked except main relay. but wouldnt my motor not even crank if it was the cause?
i hear a audible sound sort of like a buzzing when i turn the ignition switch. but im not sure if its the pump AND YES I HAVE GAS lol
and i forgot to mention, to crank the starter i need to jump the soleniod on it. but i always crank the motor on the running key ignition position. when i do it by turning the key it makes a buzzing sound, which i then relized was coming from a relay from the alarm so i thought it was defective or had been my clutch safety switch. which was neither of them(i jumped the switch and got a new relay). i have no clue what that could be either.im just concerned about the motor starting. and i know the motor should turn on in this condition because everyone does it when you have practicly dead battery.
thanks alot guys god bless
btw i know its not them alarm cause ive never had the remote to it when i had the previous motor in it.
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Re: (egb16pg)
You might have a bad main relay just by coincidense.....This would cause your fuel pump not to work..If you have a multimeter check the voltage at the pump.
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Re: (JKov240)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JKov240 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^Forgot about that...I see quite a few of those at the shop that I work at.</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2. seen this on my brothers old da, simplest thing and it stumped me for too long! check that out soon!
X2. seen this on my brothers old da, simplest thing and it stumped me for too long! check that out soon!
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Re: Oright so heres my story, (egb16pg)
5 componets to run
1. fuel
2. compression
3. spark
4. timing
5. proper air flow
you are either missing one or 2 are not working togerher
1. fuel
2. compression
3. spark
4. timing
5. proper air flow
you are either missing one or 2 are not working togerher
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Re: (schpiel)
i'll be sure to check it out. thanks alot guys i apprecate it.
anyone had some clumsy things they forgot about when doing their swap?
anyone had some clumsy things they forgot about when doing their swap?
#16
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Re: Oright so heres my story, (JKov240)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JKov240 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need 3 things for a motor to run (basically)
1. Spark
2. Fuel
3. Compression
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I knew someone would start adding in sooner or later
1. Spark
2. Fuel
3. Compression
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I knew someone would start adding in sooner or later
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Re: Oright so heres my story, (TurboB16aEG)
Sounds like it might have something to do with a kill switch or something related to wiring inside the car. You still havent varified fuel? Maybe try taking the fuel return line off and run it to a jar and see if anything comes out when you turn the key on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95gainfla »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">timing isnt really a necesity for an engine to run, its just needed to run RIGHT.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You better believe timing is a big deal my friend. you must not be a mechanic. I have done what I like to think is fair number of timing belt jobs and if its off by enough, it will not run at all. It will fire or back fire and sputter but it wont run if its off.
Anyways its probably not the timing. When your talking to people online you dont know there experiance level or anything about the car so you have to consider all possablilities.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95gainfla »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">timing isnt really a necesity for an engine to run, its just needed to run RIGHT.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You better believe timing is a big deal my friend. you must not be a mechanic. I have done what I like to think is fair number of timing belt jobs and if its off by enough, it will not run at all. It will fire or back fire and sputter but it wont run if its off.
Anyways its probably not the timing. When your talking to people online you dont know there experiance level or anything about the car so you have to consider all possablilities.
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Re: Oright so heres my story, (JeffBro)
no i havent varified fuel but i'll be sure to try the jar trick tomorow. thanks dude
btw, the fuel return line is the hose by the alternator on the fuel rail going to the gas tank, or the fuel hose coming from the firewall/fuel filter to the fuel rail?
btw, the fuel return line is the hose by the alternator on the fuel rail going to the gas tank, or the fuel hose coming from the firewall/fuel filter to the fuel rail?
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Re: (JKov240)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JKov240 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^Forgot about that...I see quite a few of those at the shop that I work at.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont you mean dont forget about that
dont you mean dont forget about that
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Re: (JKov240)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JKov240 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^Nope, I guess I shouldve put "I forgot about that"</TD></TR></TABLE>
now I feel stupid..i thought you said forget about that. I should learn to read..My bad
something else just clicked.. Check the ground on the transmission case as well as the on the side of the block (this one will have multiple wires on it). Remove the connectors and sand the case and block where they bolt up.
now I feel stupid..i thought you said forget about that. I should learn to read..My bad
something else just clicked.. Check the ground on the transmission case as well as the on the side of the block (this one will have multiple wires on it). Remove the connectors and sand the case and block where they bolt up.
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Re: (TurboB16aEG)
i have them. by the multiple wire one you mean the one by the power steering on the valve cover correct? (on the bay pic)
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Re: (egb16pg)
No its near the coolant outlet. The other is from your subframe to the transmission case. There should be 3 grounds on the engine. The multiple ground is an ecu ground for sensors.
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Re: (TurboB16aEG)
as basic as this sounds, are you sure the firing order is correct? ie plug wires in correct location. will cause a no start condition.
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Re: (egb16pg)
There is one more ground people usually forget about. Under your intake mani, there is a plastic wire cover that holds the wires to your alternator (and something else), it was held on to your d16 block with a 10mm nut. That plastic peice, believe it or not, IS GROUNDED. find a way to ground that long L shaped piece and give her a start. There should be a stud on the back of the block where the mounting hole on the cover fits...
my .02
my .02