lisitpc

98 Civic DX Manual

It wouldn't start or crank. I could hear a low humming noise which I think is the fuel pump. No clicking, and battery ok.

I came back a couple of hours later and it started fine. I started and re-started about 20 times to test. It is starting strong.

I had a check engine light with the P0420 code (catalytic converter). It has now disappeared.

It's not the the thingamabob at the top of the clutch pedal. That has been replaced.

The battery is less than 6 months old and the ground cable from the battery to body is new. The cables on the battery are tight and clean.

I sprayed some WD-40 in the ignition slot based on what someone said in another thread.

Could anyone advise me on what I should check to prevent this from happening again?

Thank you very much.

Jimi Hondrix

Could be a weak/ failing (but not totally failed) fuel pump. Fuel pumps usually start to operate intermittently before they fail. Next time it doesn't start..lift the back seat up. locate the fuel pump cover, remove cover and then lightly tap on top of the fuel pump with the handle end of a hammer or similar small, blunt tool..then try starting again. If, it starts afterwards then most likely will need a fuel pump replacement.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

He said it's not cranking but the fuel pump is running, so it's likely not that.

When it's not cranking, is it acting like it has a dead battery? As in trying to crank but not enough juice to roll the starter over? Or is it just zero reponse from the starter when you turn the key?

civicservice

When did that light come on - before, during, or after the no-crank no-start?

Do you mean this?


If so, how long ago was it fixed, and who did the repair? Did this happen before or after the P0420 code?

Jimi Hondrix

Fuel pump engaging says nothing about pressure. A low, intermittent pressure from a failing/weak fuel pump may not start the engine. Tapping on it is more related to getting the armature to spin (electrical) but, wouldn't hurt to try in his case.
Could be a failing but, not failed starter... just dragging and not able to turn engine over, as you're eluding to.

lisitpc

Zero response from the starter.

lisitpc

Yes, I mean the grommet on the clutch pedal. That was fixed by me months ago. The grommet is still in place. I stuck my finger up there to make sure.

lisitpc

As I said above, the grommet on the clutch was fixed months ago by me.

The P0420 code was on for about a week prior to the incident. I tried the catalytic cleaner fluid to no avail and had just had not gotten around to fixing.

I only mention the Check Engine light because it disappeared when the engine later started, lime the ECU had reset itself somehow.

BTW, drove about 100 miles today with no problems and the P0420 light has not returned.

fcm

To diagnose... https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-m...mp%5d-2961164/

No click at all, [soft click from under the dash] is most likely a starter relay problem or wiring to the relay, the above will help diagnose where the problem is.

If when it will not crank, and you repeatedly go from run to start, will it then crank? 94

lisitpc

No, when it would not start, it never cranked.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I was more suggesting that the fuel pump isn't the first place I'd look given his symptoms. Doesn't mean there's not an issue there though. I wasn't necessarily alluding to it, just wanted to get a better description of the issue and see what OP had tried before tossing my own unsubstantiated theories out there (I guess I'll never be president )

OP, go through fcm's troubleshooting up there. It's the logical first step.

If everything checks out, look for voltage drops from the battery to the block (bad grounding). They may only be present when you are having your issue, so carry a meter around with you. If you have, say, 12.5V across the battery terminals but put your negative probe at the thermostat housing and see 12V (or less), replace all of your engine bay grounds with new ones from the dealer (they are relatively inexpensive, fit just right and are known to be correct, unlike aftermarket or homemade ones). Battery negative cable and transmission to RH frame rail are your big ones, grab the valve cover one while you're at it.

Another item to look at after that is the ignition switch, occasionally the solder joints internal to the switch begin to deteriorate and the switch will fail intermittently. Take it off the back of the lock cylinder and have a look. If it appears discolored or solder bits fall out or anything you have your culprit.

I had a similar intermittent condition that I thought I had cured but came back a year later. Replaced all of the grounds with new, including all of the paint cutter bolts, cleaned all ground areas and anywhere that electrons needed to flow, and re assembled with conductive grease where necessary. I've found two other cars since then with the same issue and the same fix, and all three cars run better in general now too. These cars are all getting out around 20 years in age with big miles on them now, they really need to have the wiring looked over and refreshed in most cases.

agb22

I had a very similar problem. Sometimes it would start right up. Other times no noise no crank. It turned out I needed new spark plugs and replaced the rotar under the distributor cap. Haven't had a problem since.

issues with starting are always either fuel, spark, or battery. You said battery and fuel pump kicks on. Check the spark plugs. Check the distributer.

let us know what fixed it when you get it running.

Spoonfixer

Is alternator putting juice back in battery? Will it start if you jump it with cables?

lisitpc

I want to thank everyone for their help.

I've probably driven 400 miles and started and restarted the car 50 times. The starting issue has not repeated.

I checked the ground cables anyway and replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires as a precaution.

The P0420 check light, which was preexisting before this incident, has not come back. I had put some catalytic cleaner in the tank so maybe that cured it.

The fact that the P0420 light disappeared makes me suspect there was some ECU reset or that the the car choked on the ECU or something. It was a strange coincidence that the cat cleaner worked just at the moment when the car would not start.

Or maybe I was temporarily in the Twilight Zone.

Thanks again.

tony_2018

confusing thread, do you have a cranking issue, or starting issue........

lisitpc

No crank issue.

lisitpc

All of a sudden today the car would not start again. I waited a few minutes and the car started fine.

Had the battery tested and it tested bad. Apparently the battery was marginal and that explained the issue.

I never knew a car battery could renew itself like that.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

You likely haven't found the issue then.

civic402lx

Have u check the ground wire from chassis to tranny? If its green and oxidation build up. It will mess with the starting issue. I would check that ground wire and see. Well, replace it with a good one. Couple buck from Walmart.

lisitpc

What is odd that the car would not start so I disconnected the positive terminal of the battery, waited 30 seconds, and reconnected it. The car started.

This was before I had the battery tested and it tested bad and was replaced.

lisitpc

It looks fine. All the ground wires were replaced on the engine about 5 years ago due to another unrelated issue.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

bogus ignition switch is a possibility. test it

civicservice

Why was the ground cable replaced? I ask because you mention the following later in the thread, and these two statements together suggest an ongoing, unresolved electrical issue - especially given a 6-month old battery:

lisitpc

Replaced that a few years ago. (The engine used to die while driving down the highway).

lisitpc

It had a crack in the metal where it attached to the battery. I happened to notice it and replaced it as a precaution