tollickj

*Update: Big day for me today. I had the day off so I put in some work on the hatch. I remove the drum rear brakes and swapped it with new rebuilt rear disc brakes from a 95 Integra. I also put in my walboro 255LP fuel pump I had sitting in my box waiting to go into a project car. I also installed the duck wing I got from my friend and wired it up. I will post pics when I get a chance too.

tollickj

tollickj

To get my brakes working better I'm ordering a 92-95 civic si proportioning valve. I'm thinking of swapping front brakes with Integra fronts too. I've seen it done and if I did that it would make these brakes amazing for a cx hatchback.

tollickj

Update* I cleaned out my garage and ended up selling a bunch of car parts. So I made enough on useless stuff to buy me a si proportioning valve. Plan on getting it at honda tomorrow.

Mac2118

iTrader: (1)

I'm still running my 30/40 prop valve in my hatch after I did the rear disc swap. I haven't noticed much difference. I have a 40/40 somewhere.. I refinished it but for the life of me I can't find it anywhere to swap it in. check on the classifieds; there's a member selling rebuilt ones for less than what Honda would want for it if you're interested in saving some cash.

tollickj

Damn...wish I seen this earlier. I just placed one on order thru Honda... It was $233... Well at least I know what I'm getting and should work.

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

Nice house

tollickj

Thanks bud.

tollickj

lol, thanks.

tollickj

Got my proportioning valve today!

marcellatwin

What is the proportioning valve do? Based on the name is sounds like a brake splitter for the front and rear brakes, but what is the split? 80%/20% (front/rear), 70/30, 60/40, etc. What are the numbers you mentioned, 30/40, 40/40?

jlk16188

Holy crap dude, buy a bigger hammer for those trailing arm bushings and push them out the right direction. Push them out the opposite direction they went in. I replaced both of mine still attached to the car in about 2 hours with no damage at all to the trailing arms. Stop using claw hammers to do automotive work. A decent mini sledge hammer costs like $8 at harbor freight.

tollickj

The number on the valve is 30/40. The new proportioning valve I got came from a 94 civic si non abs. Si's and 4 door EX's came with rear disc's everything else didn't. The other proportioning valve will work but it wouldn't be as good as the the Si proportioning valve which is meant for rear disc brakes.

tollickj

Well... you can't push those bushing in the other way because of the lip thats in the groove on the other side... So that wouldn't of work. I agree with you I should of used a better hammer that didn't have the teeth on the end... But its not like people are gonna see it anyways and those marks I left on the trailing arm can be fixed with some sand paper and paint.

tollickj

Update* Swapped the proportioning valve and got new brakes and rotors on the fronts. When changing the brakes out I found that there was no hardware on them to actually hold the pads... completely unsafe and I'm pissed the guy I got it from gave it to me like that. I will post pics later on.

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

I've read a lot on prop valves and have found no proof that a 30/40 is any better than a 30/30 or 40/40 for rear disc brakes. So how does a 30/40 "get your brakes working better"?

Hondapartscheap.com - 46210-SR3-962 - $152.83 no tax! (outside California)

There are LX models with the 30/40 prop valve that have rear drums and the same prop valve part number as the Si/EX. Again, I haven't found anyone that knows for sure what the numbers stand for or if you have to swap into a 30/40 with a rear disc swap.

I've done the rear disc conversion and I left my 30/30 prop valve in. I've taken the car from +60 mph to a tire screeching stop with no adverse braking characteristics. Personally, I think you wasted $233.

All of that aside, I'm interested in following your build. Looks like fun!





eH.

supak111

This thread makes me miss my hatch

I had a fully built turbo b18 done right, even had real volks on it and like a dumbass sold it because I was getting tired of getting pulled over all the time.

Anyways nice hatch man, keep us updated on the progress..
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tollickj

Sorry for not posting this sooner, here is the new proportioning valve 30/40, I dont care what anyone says the brakes now are amazing now, glad I converted over.





Mind the purple, lol. New brakes as well on both sides. Plan on getting them powder coated bronze.








Weight reduction in motion!





Off now and was pretty dirty.





After scrubbing this is how it looks now. Plan on using a pressure washer to get the remainder off. Shaved about 40 lbs give or take. Removed the wood base in the truck too. Looking for a dissuser now for the bumper.





Side job; painted this black, was brown and looked like poop.

tollickj

Removed all the a/c components today.

tollickj

Put in some work today to burn off the good food i ate yesturday.





Sold the motor and transmission today as well, picking up a new transmission tomorrow and im going to scrub the engine bay.

tollickj

Picked up a gsr transmission, half shaft, starter and alternator today. Had to help remove the guy's motor anyways so screw it.

brickinthewall

I dont know how to post my own posting without using the REPLY option.
Sorry....

I am installing the cruise control actuator on a 92 civic vx.
I am testing the actuator per the below link, the last page approx.
OOPS THAT WAS NOT THE LAST PAGE. RATHER UP NEAR THE START in the actuator part.

OEM Cruise Control Swap

The problem comes when testing the motor for pushing the cable or pulling the cable. I hear the little motor working but its not moving the cable.
I positioned the cable in the middle of its possible range of movement so as to not be in all the way or out all the way.

Does this test mean the actuator is bad??