rustydusty1717

I'm going to be pulling my Motor in my 99 SiR this weekend. the motor's a b16a2 boosted and i need to pull it to do some motor work for more boost but i just wanted to figure out the best way to pull it. should i un-do the axles and pull the tranny and motor all at once or leave the tranny in car or what? any help would be greatly appreciated.

D16SiHatch

definately pull the engine and trans as one piece. its a bigger pain in the **** to try and seperate the trans and remove the engine on its own.

mattyv

x2

b16_sol_707

disconnect the engine wire harness from the car (leave it on the motor), remove the axles, remove the radiator, disconnect heater hoses and fuel line, remove the slave cyl off the trans (do not open the line).

disconnect the mounts and pull the enging/trans together.

rustydusty1717

where do you disconnect the wire harness? how long should this take to take the engine and tranny out? i took the hood off tonight to make it easier but that's as far as i've got.

D16SiHatch

you disconnect the engine harness at the main harness plugs near the passenger side shock tower. as far as how long it will take, it just depends on your skill level. if you've never done it before then its obviously going to take you a little longer. i've done it a few times now on my hatch so if need be i could get the engine/trans outta there in just a few hours.

b16_sol_707

Pretty sure the 99 sir has the same type of wiring as the 99-00 si. you have to remove the battery, the battery support bracket and then there's a plate with 2 nuts on it that the wires run through. those wires go to your ecu, disconnect them and pull them through to the engine bay.

there should be connectors on the driver side shock tower that go to the engine as well. they need to be disconnected.


I had my motor out a couple weeks ago by myself in under 4 hours. with another person we've done them out, back in, and running in less than 5 hours.

B.

take a few pics and label everything before you pull it out. then just start unplugging everything. Make sure the chain is shorter on the driver side so it gives you the angle you need to clear the tranny.

happycorey

My first motor swap, as well as usually the first of everything I did was a learning experience, what to do and what to do wrong. So make sure to double check yourself for a lot of things. It's probably going to take a lot longer than you expect, and you'll probably run into things you don't expect to, but just don't mess anything up, and you'll be fine.

And unbolt the A/C compressor from the motor, probably along with the power steering pump.

rustydusty1717

so disconnect all the wiring. basically disconnect anything that is connected from the engine or tranny to the car itself. now after i get all the wires and the rest of it disconnected just undo the motor mounts and pull it all out?

happycorey

Yup. Take your time because it's not going to just lift right out, it's probably going to get caught on everything possible and get hung up on a lot of stuff, so be sure to clear anything and EVERYTHING out of the way.

rustydusty1717

so the motor won't fit with the steering pump on etc? i've got no AC. i ripped it off when i installed my turbo.

97emsedan

Having done this myself, disconnect the P/S pump and leave it in the car, unless you want to refill the system after you reconnect. Watch for clearance on the intake and firewall, you will rip your IACV off or worse, damage the TB. By leaving all fliud filled line connected to the car, you will save yourself a ton of time, so the hyd clutch lines, P/S and such will come off the block before you pull. And mark the position of your throttle cable before you disconnect so you can put it back with no issues.

When you reinstall, make sure you have the mounts lined up and that the bolts pass easily or with minimum of force, but know that it won't line up perfectly. You will have to fiddle with it. Patience will help, but allow some time for the reinstall.

Hope this helps, and good luck with the work.

happycorey

Oh yeah you're boosted. You'll just need to take the pump off of the block, just so you won't have to disconnect the ps lines when you pull it. Also, it might benefit you to take off your turbo, just to allow for more clearance.

Be sure to disconnect the shift linkage, and exhaust.

B.

do you have the axles out yet? if not you'll need a 32mm socket and a good air gun.

rustydusty1717

okay ill take the PS pump off. the turbo is only an 18g. it's really small so i don't think it will be an issue. don't worry it works good though .

exhaust is a negative. easiest was is gonna be disconnect it from the downpipe i think and then motor can just pull straight up. axles arn't out yet. haven't even started yet. just took hood off and got my motor crane in the garage. still gotta get wheels off, intercooler, etc etc.

happycorey

A good air gun isn't necessary, just a breaker bar and a buddy to hold on to the brakes, if you don't have a impact gun.

geebs

I'd recommend you leave the wire harness attached to the engine, if this is your first engine pull. Common problems with swapping connectors when you reinstall the harness is usual for people that haven't done a swap/pull before.
Remove the battery, tray, and two 10mm nuts on the studs that hold the weatherstripping plate on, and disconnect the connectors from the ECU and the under-dash harness. Then it's just the starter power wire, and a few grounds and the wiring is basically disconnected. After that, remove the axles, and shift linkage, rear T bracket, heater hoses, radiator hoses, front torque mounts, and any vacuum lines that go to evap stuff, cruise control, etc.. Remove the fuel inlet line (from the filter) and the outlet line, from the regulator. All you have left, is basically the two mounts, drivers side and transmission side. Attach your cherry picker, or hoist, and then remove the two remaining mounts. Lift, and its out.

rustydusty1717

only problem with doing the wiring that way is i have e-manage right now ( getting rid of it) and there's wire's spliced underneath the dash and i don't wanna just snip the wires.

B.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by happycorey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A good air gun isn't necessary, just a breaker bar and a buddy to hold on to the brakes, if you don't have a impact gun.</TD></TR></TABLE> HA! if they haven't been out of the car for a long time good luck with that.

happycorey

Out of like 5+ stock EGs, I've never had that much difficulty.. If it gets hard, use a cheater pipe

B.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by happycorey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Out of like 5+ stock EGs, I've never had that much difficulty.. If it gets hard, use a cheater pipe </TD></TR></TABLE> well out 30+ that ive done ive had some that are easy and some that are a bitch. Either way save the trouble and get the right tools.

rustydusty1717

okay i've got every disconnected except axles. i ended up pulling the wiring from the ecu. i just snipped the wires from the emanage and pulled it all through the hole. it was gonna take a lot longer to disconnect each sensor individually. gonna get the axles disconnected then see how much energy i have left. if i have enough energy to pull the motor today i will

B.

OH man... dood the only wiring you need to pullout is the engine harness, the rest stays in the car..

rustydusty1717

that's all i pulled. the one harness going to the ECU. i had my e-manage wires tied in though so i had to snip those to pull it through. it took a whole 2 minutes to do that.