3rdgenprelude

and the one to the throttle body goes down under the distributor

HondaGuy951

iTrader: (2)

dizzy?

lee0149

thanks i'll hook them up tomorrow and try the spark plug gap.

John M

omg i had the same problem. take that bolt out and get a longer hose. now unhook the short hose where the bolt was and put the longer hose where the old one was with the bolt and run that hose to the throttle body. problem will be fixed

lee0149

idle air control valve was always plugged up wasnt it. only thing it not plug are the things under the throttle......so nope....going back to do the sparks plugs.

nub

Like I said before the IACV and the coolant lines running to it have NOTHING to do with the engine STARTING, it controls idle speed after it starts thus the name IDLE air CONTROL valve. You could unbolt the iacv from the manifold, block off the holes on the manifold and start the engine. Of course it may not idle but it will start and run. This is most likely a voltage (weak battery=weak spark), fuel (pump not running, main relay, preasure regulator) or ignition (no spark?)

To the OP, you said this a cold weather problem. If it warms up during the day will it start? Have you verified you have fuel and spark? Got a cel by chance?

John M

dude ****ing listin. take that bolt out of that hose and get a longer hose and run the new hose from the throttlebody to where the old hose was that had the bolt in it.

the hose with the bolt in it is too short hence why you need a longer hose to replace that one. just do it and your car will be fine.

lee0149

okay i try that again tomorrow sun is down now...wat about the back piece of the throttlebody it too have a plug that is not plug.

lee0149

will the iacv was plugged up right from the start.

1.weak battery- its a new one plus i even try jump starting it.
2.fuel pump- its a new one, i took the back seats out and i can hear it pump. bad/good?
3.spark plugs and spark-i did the spark gap with new spark plugs and i checked for sparks there is.
4.pressure regulator-i had a blox and it was at like 55-60psi something around there i forgot. but i change back to a stock one and its like 40-50psi. good/bad?
5.main relay- i tried to find it but i couldn't
6.cel- yes its on been on for a long time. i went and check it at autozone, it was something involving with coolant or something.(my thought i had a leaking radiator and was low on coolant) but got new radiator and have coolant, but haven't recheck it. plus i had malfunction v-tec. haven't known whats the problem but im more worry about getting it to up start right. i did check oil today and its low and I'm on oil going to refill tomorrow.

well it doesnt matter what time of the day for now it will always be cold. but it does start if i leave in crank mode for 10-15mins then got back out and start it up. takes a bit of times still. when its on for the first 1 to 2 min if i step on gas it dies automatically. if this will help anyone to tell me what it is.

tomorrow i will check the compression just because and the lines that are plugged. anyone else have anything for me to check.

nub

YOU have no idea what youre talking about. Do you know what those hoses are for? Do you know what the iacv is and how it functions? Doesn't look like it, youre telling this guy to hook up hoses that have engine coolant in them and his car will start.

4.pressure regulator-i had a blox and it was at like 55-60psi something around there i forgot. but i change back to a stock one and its like 40-50psi. good/bad?
Which is it 40 or 50, either way its to high, should be around 34.
6.cel- yes its on been on for a long time. i went and check it at autozone, it was something involving with coolant or something.(my thought i had a leaking radiator and was low on coolant) but got new radiator and have coolant, but haven't recheck it.
Go pull the codes and let us know what they are, the answer to your problem may be right under your nose. https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-pull-cel-d4-srs-abs-codes-code-lists-1901557/

lee0149

i think the psi is at like 40 or 44. ill do the test again tomorrow if i get the testing thing. my car is an obd2 99 si

ImportHatch

Do you have a CEL on?

John M

i know what the hell im talking about i have a 00 si ans 92 boosted ctr swapped hatch

i had the problem on my hatch after i plugged that exact same hose.
the coolant goes into the tb to keep it warm so the motor will hold a idle. which explaines why his car does fine most of the time when it is warm.
my hatch is the same way when it is cold cause i bypasses all the tb coolant lines. if it was a cel it would do it all the time not just when it is cold.
so learn your ****

3rdgenprelude

whats your name nub oh ok explains it

fastrc2

just a thought, this sounds like the map sensor is disconnected, or the vacuum line is unplugged from it, because, one of those hoses in the pics apepars to be a vacuum hose, and not a coolant hose, and if the map sensor didnt have the vacuum reference, then it wouldnt see the pressure change when you hit the gas pedal, and thats important since pgm-fi is entirely speed-density based.

The_Honda_Guy

Quote me where I said it will keep the vehicle from starting please. Oh wait, I'll quote my entire post.

"That's probably your problem right there. If you have the coolant lines blocked off that are supposed to go to the IACV then the car is not sensing the temp of the coolant. When the IACV doesn't have coolant running through it it's unable to control the idle from a cold start properly. When the car is being started from a cold start the IACV will open and allow the car to idle high for the first minute or so until it warms up and lowers the idle to normal.

I had this same problem with my RX-7. The coolant temp sensor was broken and when I would try to start it in the winter the car would routinely flood itself out, or would start and backfire from too much fuel. In the summer though it would start fine since it had no issues starting with too much fuel and it was warm outside. The engine would not be able to sense the correct temperature and would overload the housings with fuel and make it unable to idle properly or start."

Not one place did I say it would keep his car from starting. I said that during the winter in my ***RX-7*** it would make it hard to start the RX-7 but it would STILL start but it would try to flood itself out everytime. I stated that it would make a harder starting condition, especially if it were cold outside. If you had looked where the OP lives, it states he's in MN, which is obviously colder than IA, where I live. Where do you live Nub? Oh, Texas, where it doesn't get BELOW 0. You CANNOT run the car properly without the coolant flowing through the IACV, not only because it won't set the high idle when it's cold but also because it will make the idle surge incredibly bad. There's NO reason to re-route the coolant lines from the IACV (I know someone will try to say it keeps intake temps down). You're telling him all these problems that it is most likely not. If he's throwing a CEL and it's for the IACV I'm going to laugh my *** off.

John M

Thankyou^^^

neeganate

what ecu are you useing and i assume you have a b16a3?

lee0149

its stock.b16a2's ecu. just got the tester today update tomorrow. can it be timing skip?

lee0149

havent done that line that is plugged still waiting for the snow to stop it pour down like 6 inches plus today. but i just got the engine check thing and it read 2 codes
1. p0117 engine coolant temp circuit low input
2. p1259 manufacturer control fuel air meter

well i guess this bring me into the search button. but any help would still be fine.thx

lee0149

by the way after some readings i notice that some people said the p0117 effect their v-tech could this be the cause of the other one p1259

lee0149

.

lee0149

.

fastrc2

no but investigateing these codes is a prioirty after it starts, the coolant temp sensor sounds like its unplugged or out of range.

lee0149

so the p0117 is not the reason why its not starting