crazyhouse2011

I rented the coolant pressure tester and pumped it to 15 psi. It held 15 psi for a bit, but it VERY slowly decreased (you had to squint to see it). But I also may not have seated the pump perfectly. I heard bubbling, and the lower radiator hose tensed up. I heard what sounded like a bit of a WHOOSHING noise, like water flowing into a container, but couldn't see any drips. I looked under the car, and there was a small puddle beneath the differential. I started the car while the pump was at 14 psi, and no change during crank or running. i revved a couple times, no change in psi. No white smoke from exhaust, no fuel smell in coolant. It seems the drip is coming to the REAR of the heater hose that plugs into the head below the dizzy, IE closer to the cabin.

I'm stumped. Im thinking of taking it to my friendly mechanic

crazyhouse2011

Please help

crazyhouse2011

Bump for good advice.

crazyhouse2011

Please help

axis11

Try removing the distributor before you do the pressure test. That way you can see clearly on the head.

crazyhouse2011

Can't do it, hoss. Retiming my motor isn't something I know how to do.

PrettyMuchBoned

******* TAKE A RAZOR KNIFE AND MAKE A LINE FROM THE DISTRIBUTOR TO THE ******* HEAD SO YOU KEEP YOUR TIMING.

LINE THE LINE BACK UP TO THE LINE WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE. If it idles like crap, loosen the banana slide's nut and adjust until it runs smoother. Its not that hard to set timing without a timing light doe.

PrettyMuchBoned

Only problem is getting it to idle smooth, rev smooth, and flood'd smooth. It actually isn't hard at all to set ignition timing.

EVEN A CAVEMAN COULD DO IT. DON'T BE SCURRED

PrettyMuchBoned

Its way easier and not dangerous, than say cam timing.

nismoracingsx

Why'd you use threadlocker on the coolant sensor as opposed to actual thread sealant?

If you just mark the dist. w/ a sharpie or something it shouldn't be hard to re align, it's not like a nissan dist. w/ geared teeth.

Stop asking for help if you're not willing to help yourself. Pull the dist. and take a good look.

instrument

Try two clamps on the hose? Also make sure it isnt coming from your intake manifold.

crazyhouse2011

The line running from near the FITV to the thermostat?

crazyhouse2011

OOOOH OOOOOH WELL HOW AM I SUPPOSED TO RUN THE DAMN ENGINE WHEN THE DISTRIBUTOR IS OFF THE CAR??????????????????/

crazyhouse2011

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digitalvice

You've been given advice and refuse to use it because it's not the answer your looking for. Pull the dist.

crazyhouse2011

And what exactly is pulling the dizzy gonna do to help?????

PrettyMuchBoned

clear view of what could be the problems.. Buy the new hose, or buy some hose and cut it or whatever you wanna do. Put gasket making paste, that silicone, on the connections that dont have threads. Put some sort of sealant on things with threads, I think there's a color specifically for this rather than keeping the fasteners in..

I bet you put one of the coolant hoses to the head on not tight enough or something

crazyhouse2011

No. Because the drip is the EXACT same as before I replaced the old hoses. But really, exactly how tight should I clamp them down? I have wormgear hose clamps. I'm always afraid I'm gonna cut through the hose and rupture it. The way they are now is so if you pulled on the hose you would be unable to pull it off.

PrettyMuchBoned

Did you buy ultra cheapo china made hoses? Those still most likely won't rip even if you torque the **** out of some hose clamps.. They may or may not work a second time but they still most likely won't rip..

you gotta torque em tight, my coolant hose into the head is the 1/2cm or whatever thickness. Well it was like less than a millimeter thick where the hose clamp was on it. So basically make em as tight as you can

crazyhouse2011

Alright. They ARE ebay hoses, but like i said, there was a leak beforehand anyway so that isn't the issue here.

PrettyMuchBoned

You should check if advanced lets you rent a torque wrench for free, buy the 100ish ARP head studs, buy the felpro head gasket kit ($75), and bring the head somewhere to be inspected. Z6 heads aren't that expensive if yours has a cracked fluid passage or something that could also be causing your problem.

TomCat39

I disagree with over torquing the worm clamps. You need it tight enough you can't wiggle the hose at all. If it's starting to compress the hose, then it's pretty solid tightness. No need to try crushing the piping or having the clamp cutting into the hose with vibration etc.

If it's still leaking from the clamped hose then a sanding of the metal connector pipe is needed to remove corrosion roughness which would be preventing the hose from sealing.

The rubber of the hose will fill gaps pretty good so in reality, it's probably not the hose itself.

Your best bet would be to pick up some coolant dye and add it to your radiator and run the car for a bit (run it warm so the system cycles). Make sure it's UV reactive and then a 3 dollar black light bulb is your friend as you shine it around the areas you suspect the leak to be. It should glow nicely where ever the coolant is coming from.

PrettyMuchBoned

I use impact wrenches to tighten mine.

amidoingitright?

crazyhouse2011

You know what? Every time i see corrosion in a project I sand it away. When i removed the thermostat housing I made sure to sand the mating surfaces as well as the body of the thermostat itself, and soak it in degreaser. I also sanded most of the hose nipples coming out of the block, taking care not to get dust inside the pipes.

I will go tighten the clamps some more, but I doubt it's the problem, nahmsayin?

VegaS10

Have you sent a pm to xtrac1 yet?