drtyhatch

Well i have had this problem ever since i bought my car but i'm really getting sick of this problem now.

car-93 civic VX hatch

here is what i've done so far...
I changed the fuse.
I then pushed the defrost button.
When i pushed the button in, i hear a surge (pop) in the stereo.
I then checked the fuse and sure enough it was blown.

I have done this several times and it keeps doing the same thing.

I replaced the switch and it did it again.
I checked all of the wiring on the back glass and switch and nothing seems to be grounding out.
I replaced the fuse with a higher amperage fuse and it still blows it.

Anyone have any ideas.
Is it possible that there is a problem with the wiring inside the loom(tape) running from the front to the back of the car???

Its not a real big problem but i'm very very ticky about my car and i like for everything to work.

I'm normally pretty good about finding this stuff on my own but i thought maybe someone else has had this problem too.
any help would be great.

Relic1

if your very picky about your car why did you put in a higher amp fuse? that's asking for problems.

With the wires disconnected, place an ohm meter across the defrost lines, it should not read 0 ohms.

old man neri

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your very picky about your car why did you put in a higher amp fuse? that's asking for problems.

With the wires disconnected, place an ohm meter across the defrost lines, it should not read 0 ohms.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Are you sure about that? That would imply that you have zero resistance. A heater is a big resistor.


"drtyhatch" It sounds like you have a possible short in your wiring somewhere. And are you sure you are using correct fuse?

Relic1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you sure about that? That would imply that you have zero resistance. A heater is a big resistor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you're right it is simply a resistor, it should not read 0 ohms.

old man neri

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you're right it is simply a resistor, it should not read 0 ohms. </TD></TR></TABLE>

wow, this disagreement got solved with out name calling and swearing. I have the utmost respect for you!

Relic1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wow, this disagreement got solved with out name calling and swearing. I have the utmost respect for you! </TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHAhaha, should I throw in some name calling to make it more H-T like?

old man neri

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
HAHAhaha, should I throw in some name calling to make it more H-T like? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ya, then call everything "gay" for some reason, imply that because it is not "JDM" that it is inferior, and lastly call more things "gay" because they are not on your car. Then you would have a standard H-T thread.

Cheers bro!

drtyhatch

no you guys should call each other asshats, LOL that would make it H-T classic.

I put in the higher amperage fuse just to see if it would blow it. It did. I would never leave the higher amp fuse in, i just wanted to test it. I do know not to leave something like that in the car.
Really annoying. And i agree i have got to have some kind of short in a wire somewhere.

anymore suggestions?

old man neri

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drtyhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no you guys should call each other asshats, LOL that would make it H-T classic.

I put in the higher amperage fuse just to see if it would blow it. It did. I would never leave the higher amp fuse in, i just wanted to test it. I do know not to leave something like that in the car.
Really annoying. And i agree i have got to have some kind of short in a wire somewhere.

anymore suggestions?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, you could take a volt meter (you best friend right now) and plug it into different points in your positive lead to the heater and then plug the other end to known working ground and see if you have continuity. if you do then try to isolate it.

understand my poor wording?

jz98ctr

try disconnecting the defogger off the rear window completely...if it still pops da fuse, u know it's b4 the window

old man neri

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jz98ctr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try disconnecting the defogger off the rear window completely...if it still pops da fuse, u know it's b4 the window </TD></TR></TABLE>

The only way it would be the window was if someone took a piece of metal and jumped the heater bars. The window does infact ground the whole thing, just with some resistance as previously discussed.

b20vtechatch

its a short to ground you have to back probe it from the fuse back. and put a new wire where it is shorted.

old man neri

Edit: oops


Modified by old man neri at 6:56 PM 12/13/2005

drtyhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well, you could take a volt meter (you best friend right now) and plug it into different points in your positive lead to the heater and then plug the other end to known working ground and see if you have continuity. if you do then try to isolate it.

understand my poor wording? </TD></TR></TABLE>


haha yeah i stumbled through it.

Volt meter it is, when i find some more time this week i'll check it out some more. i'll update when the information becomes available.

thanks for the help guys.