sockvtec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bob95egdx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Right now I'm running my stock D15B7 at 8 lbs of boost in my 4 dr 95 Civic Dx. I'm not not content with that and I'm planning on swapping the turbo stuff on my 95 hatchback with the same engine. I want to swap first and use either a USDM D16Z6 or a JDM D15B vtec. I will definitely be building the motor with aftermarket pistons , rods and ARP fasteners so I can run a lot more boost. What is y'alls opinion on this? I'm kinda leaning towards the D15B but is it possible to make at least 300 whp without sleeving the block. I don't want to spend a fortune on it, just a few paychecks. And I don't want a B series either so don't say it. Thanks in advance for any knowledgable advice on these 2 engine options.</TD></TR></TABLE>

since you plan on building it like that, if you do go with the z6 at least use the d15b trans since its LSD i would say jus use the jdm d15 all together

Bense

the OEM LSD isn't that much of a step above the open differential.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sockvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha cool i was readin this thread and noticed you used one of my quotes bense ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahha yeah i love monster trucks

sockvtec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the OEM LSD isn't that much of a step above the open differential.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bob95egdx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is y'alls opinion on this? I'm kinda leaning towards the D15B but is it possible to make at least 300 whp without sleeving the block. I don't want to spend a fortune on it, just a few paychecks. </TD></TR></TABLE>

my engine would be bulletproof before i attempted 300whp on my sohc...

i would reccomend sleeving

x_outlaw_x

in japan there were the eg4 and eg6's no coupes, eg4 is sedan and eg6 is hatch

eg6ajk

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sockvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

since you plan on building it like that, if you do go with the z6 at least use the d15b trans since its LSD i would say jus use the jdm d15 all together</TD></TR></TABLE>

from my expirence JDM S20 LSD equipped tranny is actually pretty descent investment. (LSD trannies here in Canada are about $400US)
Things that i have noticed are improvement over stock open diff :
-elimination most of the torque steer
-helps in snow traction
-can carry more speed out of turn

downside:
-14bolt diff (no aftermarket FDs)
-only able to handle under 180whp

I mean it cannot be compared to Cusco or KAAZ diff, which is like night and day difference, but most d-series builds are on a budget thus the savings can put into the motor.

bob95egdx

I was planning on using a blockguard and posting the block instead of sleeving it. From what I've read the D15B vtec motor has an almost perfect rod/stroke ratio which will should give it a big advantage over a D16Z6 in terms of how much boost it can take before sleeving would be necessary. I already have an OBX lsd for D series but I still need to get an EX tranny to install it. I guess I've pretty much decided that's what I'm gonna do.

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bob95egdx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was planning on using a blockguard and posting the block instead of sleeving it. From what I've read the D15B vtec motor has an almost perfect rod/stroke ratio which will should give it a big advantage over a D16Z6 in terms of how much boost it can take before sleeving would be necessary. I already have an OBX lsd for D series but I still need to get an EX tranny to install it. I guess I've pretty much decided that's what I'm gonna do.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1). There is no such thing as a "perfect" rod to stroke ratio
2). Rod to stroke ratio isn't going to change how much pressure a sleeve can handle
3). The rod/stroke ratio of the engine in question will make it more "peaky" and have less of a broad powerband

If you want my opinion, the block gaurd and the posting is a complete was of money. Its been shown time and time again that these engines can hold 10-12psi daily with no issues, given a good tune. Spend your money on a wideband, not a blockgaurd.

bob95egdx

I've had the $550 PLX R500 since it first came out so I have no use for another wideband, thanks. The Endyn website seems to say the opposite of what you have said.

bob95egdx

Anyway it's not the pressure the sleeve can handle that I'm worried about. It's not gonna blow up like a pressure cooker. It's the side loading that can cause the cylinders to move that's the problem and the 1.7ish rod/stroke ratio of the D15B vtec will have a lot less side loading on the cylinders than the D16Z6. There's a lot of good info at the Endyn site and you might want to try reading more instead of going for the big post count that seems to be the norm here. Oh my god, did I just do one of those flame thingys?

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bob95egdx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyway it's not the pressure the sleeve can handle that I'm worried about. It's not gonna blow up like a pressure cooker. It's the side loading that can cause the cylinders to move that's the problem and the 1.7ish rod/stroke ratio of the D15B vtec will have a lot less side loading on the cylinders than the D16Z6. There's a lot of good info at the Endyn site and you might want to try reading more instead of going for the big post count that seems to be the norm here. Oh my god, did I just do one of those flame thingys?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have a lot to learn. You might not want to take everything you read on the Endyn site as gospel either.

Ever wonder how that full race car that they built held 22psi and ~460whp with a stock sleeved D16A6? I mean, by your theroy, it should die a painfull death due to its 1.52 rod to stroke ratio, right? I'm not arguing that your D15 will have less side loading, I know it will. I am trying to tell you that I don't think the difference between the two in rod/stroke ratios is worth the loss of stroke. I also don't think its something that a block gaurd and posting will cure. I could tell you were an Endyn ***** when you made the comment about posting and rod/stroke ratio alone...

bob95egdx

A little extra stroke will make no difference when I'm running a lot more boost than the D16Z6 would be able to handle will it. 10 or 12 psi like you mentioned doesn't excite me. I make 8 lbs now so I'm thinking around 18 or 20 for starters.

da6 sukkah

Go with the D15b... im going to pick one up pretty soon.

x_outlaw_x

im going to pick up a d15b pretty soon too...but not for my car

HAZARD_1310

I got a 99" civic with a D16A on it, it comes from an HR-V from japan any one have any specs on it

BlackoutVTi

Old

***

Thread.

Good searching though. I have the D15B VTEC, and I love the thing. Real windy engine with good gearing, and very reliable...so far. Can't say much in comparison to the D16A, but I just thought I'd bump a ****-old thread, lol.

Yo soy el triunfo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by x_outlaw_x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in japan there were the eg4 and eg6's no coupes, eg4 is sedan and eg6 is hatch</TD></TR></TABLE>

OMG.... Just shut up.

JDM coupe specs, look at teh address. its Hondas' official site. All JDM 5G coupes are EX equivalents, and all JDM 6G coupes are HX equivs.

AKAudioINC

Keeping the same head is a good idea or not? Plus I'm considering changing to over to 3 stage VTEC

wateretard

I have a D16A VTEC and it absolutely LOVED boost. I used to drive it everyday running 13 lbs. It is basically the ZC SOHC, so the are built pretty beefy. Since then I've taken the kit off and am currently running all motor(stock internals), RAPING ls's. The D15B to me looks like a cheap replacement for a Z6. The D16A should hold up longer than the D15B.

pinks11

Wow.. I am suprised that a lot of ppl on here are saying to go with the d15b over the d16a... Why is that? I had a friend who had a d15b and it was alright, but i would expect something with more displacement would be the better choice????

I am also wondering is the jdm d16a the exact same as the zc? I'm going to pick one up soon, and the guy at the shop said that theyre the same and that the d16a is a bit newer. So im guessing that zc's are a bit old? either way im going to pick up a good sohc motor. please fill me in.

jrose703

mortificationrock

I'd go with a d15b cuz I had one on my old eg sedan. Ran better and more propulsion than my d16z6 I have now. It also has a more aggresive cam. It's very similar to a zex stage 1 cam. Or
59100 what ever its called.

Meister vtec

you guys notice your giving suggestions to a guy that asked this question in 2006 right?

jesus! besides if infact the d16a is the same motor then a d16z6 then can a single soul here give me a real world reason to why the d15b is better, I mean the r/s ratio is matter of a difference that makes me just laugh,the hp difference is 5hp for the d15's advantage but the d16 has better tq and powerband so hell which one is better?

conclusion:none! there no real substantial differences at all IMO!

wickedD16

d16a isnt too bad i tell ya. [130hp]
it came from a jdm ferio somewhere in 1998 - 2000
i own a jdm d16a and here's a pic of the actual stock engine..



it runs on a p08 jdm chipped ecu and vtec kicks at 4700 - 4800 stock...

wickedD16

sorry for reviving the thread! LOL xD

Unmexicano

hey wicked. i got a jdm D16A engine also. trying to convert it to vtec. how did you do this? cause i know the jdm d16a's came non Vtec