thebleek

So i got my motor installed by this dude. I had a y8 and he swapped in a y7. I changed over the ECU and did the repin for the ecu wires [iacv 3 wire fix]

I got my car back and he doesnt know what the problem is, because hes a stupid ****ing piece of **** taht should never work on a car.

My problems are...

Speedometer does not work

Car idle bounces from 1200-2000

After i was driving it for 5 minutes it started misfiring and you cant give it much gas or it will bog and i would have to upshift to keep it in lower rpms to even go anywhere. and then i would have to keep downshifting when there was power loss so i would keep going. anything over 20 mph was not working. I think it was 20 mph but the speedo wasnt working

My mom in the car behind me said there was white smoke, then grey smoke so im thinking it may have been flooding out the motor?

my car is a obd2a 97 Civic dx hatchback with a P2E computer and a d16y7 with a y8 trans

please help before i kill them and then finish myself off in the driver seat of my car.

r33dm0n3y

simmer down man. you got the swap in and now it's going to take some time to get the kinks worked out. i wish i could help you more than that, but understand that it'll work out just fine, you just need to be patient. hopefully it'll be something easy.

thebleek

also it had the MIL light of 17 which is VSS? The motor is from an auto but my car is a manual

Cypher0117

I would check your fuel supply if you feel like the car can't go anywhere after ~20mph. To me it either sounds like too much or not enough.

thebleek

it wont go up to that because i cant rev it with out it misfiring

90blackcrx

Here is a right up on the vss code, I would guess though its either not plugged in or they broke the clip during the swap
http://www.honda-technical.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9

As for the idle, check for vacuum leaks, first thing. You can check by spraying over the intake manifold section with brake cleaner, if it idles smoothly once you hit a spot, that's where it is leaking. It could also be the fast idle air control valve. I'd look into those two spots.

As for the speedo not working, well thats because of the vss as well, get that figured out and you will have a speedo.

thebleek

i dont think i have a fast idle control valve do i? i thought that was pre96 cars

the obd1's have them right? because im obd2

and that link only says...

Code 17 - Vehicle Speed Sensor

Sorry, still working on it....

90blackcrx

Your right but I have seen weirder things, people swap over misc throttle bodies and such. I gotta head out for a little bit but I'll check back. If you wanna check your pm's you might get some more help

-=ZAK=-

**do your own car work cant blame anyone but yourself then...autozone has a manuel for hondas its were i learned

drave

Did you put a new clutch/flywheel in as well?

thebleek

he put a new/used clutch in. I compared it to a brand new clutch and it was the same width of the "meat" i didnt put a new flywheel in tho.

-JSpecEk*9-

what does that have to do with the problem at hand?

thebleek

who knows, i thought id answer it anyway

-JSpecEk*9-

are you sure this new motor isnt blown? what about timing? re-check the wiring. just some thoughts.

thebleek

it didnt sound blown. and lord knows ive heard it all. bad heads, rod knock, spun bearing. ive heard it all and it didnt sound bad.

drave

The clutch has to do with the roaming idle. I put an Exedy Stage 1 clutch and 8 1/2 lbs flywheel, and it does the same thing. Roams from 1200-1700 on a cold start.

thebleek

well it was warmed up and still doing that plus its an oem clutch not a lightweight one

littleblue

Check all the vacuum lines, I had a **** ton of white smoke coming out my exhaust when I changed my intake mani, turns out I put a coolant line into a vac line DOH!

silentone

iTrader: (1)

theres your problem.

mugenef9

also check the washers where your fuel line off the fuel filter meets the fuel rail. if you are missing 1 or 2 or one got pushed into the nut it will do that also. and while your at it check your injector o rings and fuel pressure regulator. hope that helps


heres a crappy drawing to show you what i am talking about

thebleek

read the whole post.

i HAD a y8 and swapped in a y7. i did the repin for the iacv and swapped cpu's so your post was meaningless

ejLday

yea he was the only one that read one sentence and thought he was on to something

thebleek

It was good for a real life "LOL" tho

scbmx87

Did you check your fuel pressure? Mine was doing almost the same thing, it wouldn't rev past 3 or 4 grand and was smoking. The pressure should be around 38-41psi at the filter or the rail. Check that then get back to us, i'll keep checking in.

And relax man, i ran into some issues with my B18b1 swap, it'll work itself out.

Your VSS is probably busted, they're easy to break, replace it if it is plugged in.

Get back to us with your fuel pressure readings. If you have high fuel pressure its backed up by the FPR, return line, or the rail itself.

thebleek

how do i check my fuel pressure?