antonio1122

I just checked resistance its almost 1.1k ohms, what is it supposed to be?

crazyhorse2011

no clue. Not familiar with that sensor. If i were you id stop in a parts store and buy a sensor. Install it carefully to not get it scratched or dirty, CLEAR the CEL, then see if the code comes back. If it doesnt, problem solved. If it does, return the sensor and we will go from there.

antonio1122

Car was funning fine and then when it started doing **** again when warm the second it hesitated threw code 9, some say resistance should be 350-700ohm, I get 950 with ecm connected and 1.1k without connection to ecm. Could that cause these issues?!

crazyhorse2011

possibly. If this sensor is on its way out it would cause rough running conditions. Apparently it has to do with timing so that could explain a lot. Go pick one up from autozone just to "borrow" it for diagnostic purposes. DONT TELL THEM YOURE DOING THAT OR THEY WONT LET YOU RETURN IT. make something up. "Oh it didnt line up right sorry"

antonio1122

As I said, not from US :/ I guess I'll have to source one up, thing is I barely know anyone with a DOHC ZC around my place but I'll figure it out somehow, is it worth buying a new one or get one thats used?

Also it would help a ton if someone knew correct resistance. I did took it out but its nearly impossible not to get it back correctly, it has 2 slots, I genuinely doubt if it was turned 90 degrees it would show different resistance, or I'm completely in wrong here?

crazyhorse2011

yeah im not too familiar with the dohc zc so i wouldnt know. Do you have autozone in your country? Or an auto parts store of any sort? Id get the sensor new if its possible, otherwise good luck in the scrap yards, all the obd0 honda motors are probably melted down by now

crazyhorse2011

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/code-9-cylinder-position-sensor-2904710/
according to this thread resistance is 350-700 ohms. Your sensor resistance is out of range, hence the CEL. Computer doesn't like that. Order the sensor on rockauto.com or find an auto parts store that has one.

antonio1122

Hence the issues with timing which results in idle being crapy and slightly bouncy? I mean that makes sense right? I can probably borrow it from a friend thats like 30km away and see where it takes me. What is funny is why didnt it throw a code yesterday when I was trying all sort of **** for 12h, today all of the sudden it throws code 9, although today I started it with old IACV and it was all good was running for 20 mins, stopped, restarted, slight "cut off" occured and it started have crappy idle alongside code 9... Perhaps it was "going" bad and me beating the hell out of it yesterday resulted in CEL today ...

crazyhorse2011

computers can deliberate on bad sensors for a long time, especially on old obd1 and obd0 systems. If the sensor is out of range the computer may wait awhile for it to "right" itself before triggering the engine light. So there are no parts store neaf you? Do you live in africa or something?

antonio1122

There are but their quote is 220$ for a sensor .. Thats bullshit imo.

crazyhorse2011

ok remember what i said? you're gonna "borrow" it so it doesn't matter if it works or not, you're gonna return it. Drive to the parts store, pay the 220, get in your car and drive a 1/2 mile up the road to the grocery store/gas station/walmart/whatever and put the sensor in your car with the tools you brought with you, and then clear the code and drive it around the block a few times and see if the symptoms cleared up or not. If they didn't, return the sensor and come back and report your findings. If it did fix things, return the sensor anyway. Put your old one back in and order it off rockauto for less than 220.

You said you have a 94 del sol with an obd0 dohc zc motor.... That motor didn't come in that car. So what did you tell the guy you drove at the parts store that had the dohc zc motor in it?

TomCat39

You might also want to check your ECT sensor. It's my understanding it can cause idle issues especially once the engine is warm as the car runs in open loop due to the sensor not telling the ECU it's at operating temperature.

Would really suck if both sensors were bad.

crazyhorse2011

thank you, i knew i was forgetting something

antonio1122

I just sourced 2 used TEC sensors, gonna go and try to replace it and then report here. Thanks everyone.

antonio1122

Replaced sensor, no more code 9 and no more bouncing, however now my idle stays at 1100 rpm's for 2-3 secs then drops to 800 but I'll blame idle screw not adjusted well cause I played with it previously thinking its the cause of my issues, so I'm gonna reset ECU with new settings for it to re-learn idle.

I honestly doubt that sensor can cause high idle then drop to normal idle? It something more of IACV thing/idlescrew/vacuum. I reckon I didnt put IACV gasket correctly so it pulls vacuum there, just re-did all of it will let it cool down and then restart.

crazyhorse2011

make sure gasket is good, and tight

then follow the service instructions for setting idle. It involves a few steps but its actually easy to do. Set idle for around 800 rpm on hot engine, and then after reset of ecu (part of retraining idle) give it a few days before you **** with it again. The computer will act goofy for a while as it learns the new setup

mk378

When you unplug a two wire IACV, the idle speed should drop to much less than normal. If it does not, the bottom line is that too much air is getting into the intake somehow.

fragmare

Also remember that anything in the PCV system counts as "metered air". If the breather box, PCV valve or any hose/line in the PCV system is restricted or split, the ECU will not necessarily know why there is too much/too little air past the MAF, but will try to make adjustments anyway. Bottom line, check and (if necessary) clean out your PCV components. And yea, if you played with the idle screw, you're going to need to re-adjust it per the service manual procedure for the ZC (whatever that may be)

crazyhorse2011

like i said, reset idle correctly and reset ecu, and drive for a couple days before even attemptingto further mess with it. You may find that you fixed her up. If you set idle, and afterwards the car is still acting funny then maybe search for a vacuum leak

antonio1122

Guys that was it, that stupid cylinder sensor and code 9... Now not only idle doesnt bounce but my throttle response is so damn smooth, also I used to have some black smoke (unburnt fuel), now thats gone too. I cant believe I've driven "broken" car for almost 2 years and didnt even notice it until idle started bouncing and code 9 from ECU. Thank you everyone for your help!

crazyhorse2011

great job OP.

as preventative maintenance i always check my CEL codes every 6 months or so, even if the light isnt lit, just incase the computer has an old code stored.

antonio1122

I did too but it just didnt show anything until the other day :/ Anyway since I dont want to open a new thread and you seem like you know a lot, may you ask you just one more thing. On cold start, I get "slow" crank, like its missing teeth from flywheel but it's not, it goes vrm-vrmmm-vrmm-vrm-vrm-fire (I literally dont know how else to explain it haha). I have tried 2 starters, battery is new, all connections are tight, I had that problem for 2 years and I never figured it out cause everything seems just fine yet it has issues. When warm, fires right up.

crazyhorse2011

youve done everything i would have done. Clean grounds, check battery, check starter.
maybe your oil is too thick?

antonio1122

It does the same regardless if its cold or hot outside. If I fire it up after he struggles and then shut it off almost instantly, next second I crank it again and its normal ... I use Motul 2100 power + oil which is 10w40, I thought it may be oil as well however how can I even "test" that?

crazyhorse2011

put 5w20 in and see if it does it still
honestly if its not affecting anything id say screw it and leave it be. My 95 has 175k on it, you think it doesnt act strange on me sometimes? I brush it off. For example i suffer an overheat issue but it happens so rarely, like once every week or two i dont worry. Needle goes up and then back down after a minute of running the heater. Check everything out every time and its all ok. *shrug*