hondur

iTrader: (1)

I tried holding them ontop of each other and I feel like it's just not exact enough to transfer the z6 crank pulley's markings onto the Y8 crank pulley.

I also considered adjusting the distributor by ear / feeling instead of using a timing light, which I may (maybe not) need to do anyway since the surfaces were milled 0.016.

Is there an easy way to copy the z6's marks onto the y8 crank pulley? Short of machining a rod that will align them..

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

setup?

hondur

iTrader: (1)

N.A Z6 with king bearings and arp head studs. It's for my 95 ej2

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

why use the y8 pulley in the first place?

hondur

iTrader: (1)

The original z6 pulley was damaged at the junkyard before I got the engine home, along with the oil pan and exhaust manifold. Everything is completed and double if not triple checked to ensure quality control.

I would just like the option to use a timing light, despite my ability to time the engine adequately without that tool. I've read that I'll need to adjust the distributor again once I install my 46mm turbo but for now I'd like the option to use a timing light.

JRCivic1

What makes you believe that the marks are different ??? If it is because the Y8 marks appear farther apart... it is because the crank pulley is LARGER in diameter than the Z6 pulley. Place the engine at TDC with the damaged Z6 crank pulley, remove it and replace it with the Y8 pulley. The timing marks should be aligned.

hondur

iTrader: (1)

my first clue was that that my z6 pulley had 5 marks and the y8 pulley only had 4. I'm gonna find someone to hold my pulley holder tomorrow so i can get it off and photograph the inconsistencies between the two pulleys. I'm pretty sure i'm correct about this, i don't think i would've made a note of it if they were exactly the same.

And you're right, the y8 pulley has a slightly bigger lip on it. Made putting the alternator belt on rather difficult, had to turn the pulleys to get it over the lip, but i'm pretty sure that the diameter of where the belt makes contact is the same.

Bently_Coop

How does this work for the charging system? Undercharge or Overcharge the alternator? Will a y8 pulley work on a D15b2 as well?

Do you have the powerbuilt holder? I have used a long breaker bar and pipe to hold it on the ground while removing the crank pulley bolt. You also may need different belts for the accessories. Is the alignment the same with the different crank pulleys?

Former User

Wouldn't the voltage regulator in the alternator correct for any minor rpm differences?

Bently_Coop

In theory it should. With a larger diameter pulley there is also more parasitic draw though. Does the Alternator pulley need to match the crank pulley?

Former User

Not sure I understand your logic. The alternator charges fine over a wide range of engine rpms.

http://www.carparts.com/classroom/charging.htm

hondur

iTrader: (1)

My engine only has one accessory, the alternator. I may install AC eventually though.

I'm pretty sure the actual diameter of the pulley where the belt makes contact is exactly the same. The difference is a lip at the edge of the pulley's biggest thingamaging. I suppose it helps keep the belt in place. A belt thats a little bit longer would make install/removal of the belt a lot easier.

I use the powerbuilt pulley holder, but my engine is on an engine stand so it's significantly more difficult to get the pulley off. Normally I jam the ratchet against the LCA and then turn the bolt out, I can't do anything like that in this situation.

Bently_Coop

It isn't just voltage but the amperage changing with larger pulleys. Look at the AEM pulleys for example, those are notorious for undercharging the system.

TomCat39

I've read that the D16Y8 Pulley (OBD2 96-00) uses a 12 degree ignition timing where the D16Z6 (OBD1 92-95) uses the 16 degree ignition timing.

Your best solution is to measure the circumference of the pulley, then do the math so you can paint the 16 degree BTDC mark yourself.

Former User

What's important to maintain is the ratio of the crank pulley diameter to the alternator pulley diameter. I assume that they're very close and, if so, there should be no charging issues.

Voltage and amperage are intimately related through Ohms law. Changing one, changes the other. The voltage regulator increases amperage output when the system voltage drops.

How much do AEM pulleys change the stock ratio of the crank pulley diameter to the alternator pulley diameter?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I would hardly consider that the best solution.

13810-P26-003

$130 on Majestic for the guaranteed right part, out of the box, with no ghetto rigging involved. Or pick one up from a scrap yard. Or a new one off Amazon for $75. All of this shoehorning is just silly when the proper solution is right there.

TomCat39

Yeah sorry bad choice of words, thought and meant easiest without buying a Z6 pulley and just using what is on hand.

It was actually what I was looking at doing as Z6 pulleys are hard to come buy at the scrap yards but there is a plethora of Y8's.

As far as I know, their are pretty much identical with the exception of the ignition timing marks.

Bently_Coop

Good ole ohms law.

Never messed with one, only from reading.

Former User

Would be interesting for the OP to compare the pulley diameter ratios for the stock versus hybrid configurations and post the numbers.

TomCat39

Most of the underdriven pulleys claim to be underdriven by 20% if I recall.

ATI Super Damper for D seris is 10%:

HONDA - D SERIES -*4 CYL

***RACE - 5.5" SERPENTINE DRIVE (10% U ) ALTERNATOR DRIVE ONLY, 550 HP MAX

918456

916129

hondur

iTrader: (1)

I wanted to add some good posts from the d-series forum. I couldn't get someone to help me take the pulley off, maybe i will before i put my engine in and in that case I'll add more posts to this thread.