brentmc79

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Can someone tell me what # it is. I'm thinking it's #10.

Can someone concur?</TD></TR></TABLE>It's #3 or #4, depending on which end you need it for.

Deemeetree

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Split Image Prez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've done them both. Changing the boot is a real pain in the ***. It IS the cheaper way to go but either way you have to take out the axle. If you are going to replace the boot then you are going to need the tool that will will pull the metal strap tight. The metal strap is what keeps the boot on. If you go to auto zone then they should have all you need.

But if you just buy the complete axle then you'll be good to go and you'll also have a life time wuarrenty. Let me know if you have any questions....

Oh and if it's making noise then you have to change the axle, you can't just change the boot.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well it's not making noise...yet.

I was looking at the little metal ring and noticed I probably need a special tool to crimp these down pretty tight.

Do you have experience with Autistic-Zone axles? They come complete and ready to plug and play right?

Bull_head360

just a little FYI for everyone, if and when you go the second time to get your next set of axles (under lifetime warranty), tell them (if they ask) you're car isn't lowered, and it's still rollin on the stock rims from the dealer. otherwise they probablywont honor it

HitEm'Up

If you have the $ just replace the shaft theres less f*ckin around!!

Deemeetree

So no experience on the Auto Zone units?

XxSOHCDriVerxX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I think the boot is WAY cheaper than an axle though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

werd

simplyredvw

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So no experience on the Auto Zone units?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Personally, I wouldn't use the AutoZone units unless I was going to sell the car. You will be using the warranty so keep the receipt.
If the cv boot just broke open, you might be able to get away with rebooting the axle. If you have to take the axle off, you should do both boots at that time. You are also better off with factory boots than using some crappy aftermarket ones.
If the cv boot has been torn open for awhile and you plan on keeping the car, try to find a quality aftermarket reman. axle or get a reman. from Honda. NOTE, I said reman. axle and NOT rebuilt axle. There is a difference.

SOHC4life 96

I still think it would be a great write-up to do. I have the money and time to change the boot, not the money to have the axle replaced. One reason I NEED to change the boot is becuase I bought some new rims, and I dont want to get grease all over the inside of them. I dont mind the steelies getting greasy.
Does anyone know how much an axle costs? Just the axle. And if you get the ones with the lifetime warranty, they have to put them in, correct?

Deemeetree

Well a new axle from Auto Zone is $75 and I think they give you $15 back if you do a core exchange.

I might just do the boot. Hopefully, I can find those special tools to crimp the boots in place.

simplyredvw

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHC4life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the money and time to change the boot, not the money to have the axle replaced.
Does anyone know how much an axle costs? Just the axle. And if you get the ones with the lifetime warranty, they have to put them in, correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Price for Honda cv boot kit, about $26.
Price for aftermarket rebuilt axle (usually lifetime warranty), about $70-80. Most will give you warranty with over the counter sale.
Price for Honda remanufactured axle, about $175. One year warranty.

Hope this helps.

SOHC4life 96

Very much so, thank you.

Riddy

now boot, no need to give that axle "the boot"

RICE POLICE SIP

iTrader: (2)

I can give ya a little how to... Just no pics right now. If you're going to be doing this on the ground or at your house and there are no pneumatic tools and no lift then this is for you....

***NOTE*** This is nothing more the a little help from me to you. It's not a guide, and i'm not resposible for any damage to the car. If you have any questions then feel free to PM me... Hope the info I left is helpful. ***NOTE***

TOOLS NEEDED:
Jack and stands
32mm Socket
Breaker Bar
17mm Socket and Ratchet
Cotter Key removal tool or some kinna pliers
Pry bar or big flat head screw driver
Ball Joint splitter "Pickle fork" or The puller style
and that SHOULD be about it.

***NOTE*** You could drain the tranny fluid but it's not necessary if you only jack up the one side you're changing the axle on. ***NOTE***

First: Using a 32MM socket and a decent sized breaker bar loosen the nut holding the axle there.

2: Loosen the Lug Nuts and Jack the car up and put it on stands.

3: Remove the wheel

4: Remove 2 Cotter Keys and 2 17mm castle nuts ( One on the lower control arm ball joint and one on the tie rod ball joint)

4a: Remove the 17mm nut and bolt holding the shock in place.

5: Now this part can be a little tricky. I believe it's called a ball joint splitter tool "pickle fork" ( https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=761380 ), but anyways you can use that ( 10.00 from the Zone). Or you can use a hammer and hit the part that sticks out a little bit... ( https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=922173 https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=761380 ) I would suggest the hitting it or using the puller so you don't ruin the ball joint boot. Then you'll have to get a new ball joint and that is a pain in the ***.

5a: You will most likely have to take a hammer and TAP the axle out through the rotor.

7: Now take a mini pry bar and place it in between the tranny and the axle. Pop it out of the tranny.

7: Pull down on the lower control arm and move the shock assy. to the side.

8: Pull the axle out.

9: Put the axle in the same way you took it out

10: pull the LCA and put the shock assy. back

11: Put the axle through the rotor and thread the 32mm nut hand tight. ( you may have to grab the rotor and push on it to get the axle to "seat" in the tranny and make the axle stick out of the rotor completely to put the nut on )

12: install removed hardware: 2 nuts and 2 cotter keys and 1 nut and bolt

13: tighten the 32mm nut as much as you can while the car is still in the air.

14: Install the wheel and tighten the 32mm nut again

15: Remove the Jack stand and lower the car

16: Tighten the hell out of the 32mm nut and don't forget to notch the beveled part of the nut to the axle.

Hope this helps guys.... Oh and if there is somthing I missed then please add to it. I wrote this up by memory.... Thanks and good luck....

Deemeetree

Thanks man.

I have the Helms manual here on my computer. I accessed it and was looking to rebuild the boot. It seems as if the clamp is just folded. Similar to a locking clamp. Doesn't say anything about needing a special tool or crimp to tighten the clamp.

Built B16A

shop around, i work for a shop, and with a discount.. (i know everyone doesnt' have discounts) but i can get half shafts for 42 bucks at car-quest autoparts. thats the cheapest ive seen. i belive auto zone are right around 50. and i recently found out Napa rasied they're prices up to $62.

call around, its a VERY common part. widely stocked!

Evs-One

to go with the little how-to above....you don't need to remove the tie rod from the knuckle....it's not needed at all, in fact, it's just more work.

Replacing the boot is the way to go if you have the proper tools and know how. I wish I had a camera, and I could post pics of a few tricks we do at Honda to get the boots on easier. Basically, for the outer boot....rip the old one off, and pound the entire joint off of the shaft.clean the outer splines fairly well. Then slide the new boot into location-small end first and tie down with the straps and your cool little snap on ring clamps . Pound the joint back on over the c-clip on the shaft and before you snug the big side of the boot down, squeeze your HG CV grease in there, slide the boot over and strap it down.

It's much easier when clamping the axle in a big vise

ljf585

had the same problem on my old teg, grease got EVERYWHERE under there, never seems to all come off either...replaced the axle on mine but it looks small enough for the boot trick

Deemeetree

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to go with the little how-to above....you don't need to remove the tie rod from the knuckle....it's not needed at all, in fact, it's just more work.

Replacing the boot is the way to go if you have the proper tools and know how. I wish I had a camera, and I could post pics of a few tricks we do at Honda to get the boots on easier. Basically, for the outer boot....rip the old one off, and pound the entire joint off of the shaft.clean the outer splines fairly well. Then slide the new boot into location-small end first and tie down with the straps and your cool little snap on ring clamps . Pound the joint back on over the c-clip on the shaft and before you snug the big side of the boot down, squeeze your HG CV grease in there, slide the boot over and strap it down.

It's much easier when clamping the axle in a big vise </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was reading on the Helms about disassembly of the CV joint to get the new boot in. Don't you have you remove the spider gear, circlip, etc...to gain complete access to the splines and make it easier to slip the boot over?

civicboisi

its all cheap and easier to down when all of a sudden you're stuck on the road, assed out when you shouldve just replaced the whole axle. Guys, why would you replace just the boot, when for like 20 bucks more, you could get a new reman. axle from like napa with a lifetime warranty? Just doesn't make sense...it's your car i guess...i wouldn't go cheap on things like this. Granted, you're not hearing things yet, BUT, that doesn't mean ur axle isn't still good either.

Something to think about.

Edit: Forgot to add...just because ur boots ripped, doesn't mean you'll start to hear knocking noise right away or within a few months...axles without torn boots are known to make noise too

Deemeetree

I guess I'll go the new axle route. Seems a bit easier and less time consuming.

civicboisi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I'll go the new axle route. Seems a bit easier and less time consuming.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you'll thank urself in the long run too... Good call.

simplyredvw

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I'll go the new axle route. Seems a bit easier and less time consuming.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just make sure the axle is at least a reman. and not a rebuilt axle.

struppi

Okay, my two cents. Pepboys sells the outer CV boot for the civic for around $14 and it comes with grease and clamps. You will need a $15 clamp tool to tighten these. That's about as cheap as it gets. Don't get the universal split boot kits. All I do is remove the hub nut, the fork from the shock assembly (two bolts) and separate the upper control arm. This is enough to slide the CV joint out and work on it. Don't need to take the whole axle out. Clean the joint out thoroughly and dry. Don't leave whatever solvent you used to clean in the joint. Place the boot on the shaft. Squeeze your grease in the joint until it pushes past the bearings from underneath. Put the joint on the shaft and make sure it seats. Squeeze all the remaining grease in the boot and fit over joint. Use boot clamp tool to tighten boot clamps. Reassemble the rest.

Note these are the two trickiest things about the changing the CV boot IMO.

1) Don't use a pickle fork on the upper control arm because you will most likely screw up the ball joint. I hold a heavy piece of metal to the back of the joint and strike the front with a heavy mallet. This deforms the joint momentarily which releases the bolt and works well on the upper control arm (not so well on the lower, but you don't need that for this). A puller would probably be best if you have trouble with this.

2) Make sure the C clip seats properly when you reassemble the joint on the shaft. Pull on the joint to make sure it is seated. Make sure the joint is on the shaft properly. Sometimes, the clip can get deformed when the joint is put back together again. If this happens you will need a new clip. Go to a transmission shop and ask for one. If the clip is not on properly, your shaft will pull out of the joint when you make tight turns leaving you with no power to the wheels.

It's really not that hard and shouldn't take more than a couple hours.

Deemeetree

Indeed, I was reading the Helms on how to rebuild them and it doesn't look that complicated at all. The only thing is the boot clamps. The Helms states that a clamp tool is not needed. They are fastened down, similar to a strap, and then 2 tabs need to be smacked down to hold it in place. But, then again, I haven't seen the clamps off the boot so I'm not entirely sure.

simplyredvw

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by riversideguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pepboys sells the outer CV boot for the civic for around $14 and it comes with grease and clamps. You will need a $15 clamp tool to tighten these.</TD></TR></TABLE>

At $14, I would rather spend the extra $12 and get a quality boot from the dealer that I know will fit right.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by riversideguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) Don't use a pickle fork on the upper control arm because you will most likely screw up the ball joint. I hold a heavy piece of metal to the back of the joint and strike the front with a heavy mallet. This deforms the joint momentarily which releases the bolt and works well on the upper control arm (not so well on the lower, but you don't need that for this). A puller would probably be best if you have trouble with this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Isn't it easier to release the lower control arm ball joint when you want to pull the axle out?