98civdx

How did you do that with a engine that spins counter clockwise?

strategy400

The helms manual has very specific instructions on how to lubricate the bolt before reinstallation (and also usually says replace the bolt). It says to oil the threads and between bolt head and washer, and no where else, all else is supposed to be cleaned spotless. Also there is no mention of loctite and I wouldn't advise it.

It also says - Note: Do not use an impact wrench when installing.

Also, I'd be afraid of ruining the temper of the crank bolt internal threads when using a torch, and would recommend replacing the bolt for sure if heat was used.

JDM_teh_WIN!!

maglites94

you dont want to heat the bolt itself because that just expands the bolt.

strategy400

Heating anything beyond a certain temp (max operating temp of the part?) is a good idea if all involved parts are being replaced.

redm3turbo

day off work for good friday....and Im off to change a timing belt, lol. Ive been watchin this threading thinking....god I hope the previous owner didn't put loctite on my pulley bolt.

*Im currently on the phone with a diesel repair shop in the area* Id rather them crack the bolt, put back in hand tight, and Ill pay the 10 bucks and not have the headaches,lol.

I dread dealing with these bolts myself...in the rust belt NOTHING comes off as planned.

motegicivic

I agree you start something and then something comes up.

When take it to the shop to get it off, are you going to trailer it?

DA_integra_93

i did torque mine down to specs and watched it as it was on, it started wobbling and i was able to turn it off before any damage was done....wasnt so lucky the second time, I'm kind of a pro at those damn pulleys I've taken so many of them off and i don't have much more struggle with loctite on

98civdx

You did something wrong, or something was damaged.

Keep in mind it depends on what loctite you use...

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Your a pro with these pulleys but you've had one come loose twice? I've never had that happen and never seen a car do it before when it was torqued to specs

lostforawhile

honda has a new procedure for putting that bolt back on, I ran into this with the 98, it involves torquing it to a much smaller amount, marking the pulley and bolt and final torquing to a specific number of degrees, it doesn't mean you just tighten the **** out of it. DO not reuse that bolt!! the bolts are designed for one time use, get a new bolt from the dealer and the procedure should be in there.

lostforawhile

they redesigned the problem bolts, see previous post, I remember now the procedure was to torque to a smaller amount, turn a certain number of degrees,run the engine for about five minutes, then torque another number of degrees,NEVER reuse that bolt it stretches during installation

DA_integra_93

they came loose the very first time I've ever had to take it off and that was 3 years ago, never had any problems since then taking them off and I've done a bunch since doing it my first time which was 3 years ago, and i can do it pretty quickly without impacts, minus the time it takes to get all the other crap off

DA_integra_93

it was the blue one, i didn't let it sit like i was suppose to

DELshaneSOL

this is what i used



i just did myn thursday night

strategy400

I've reused the bolt before with no ill effect, but you should replace it each time to do it right.

I figure if the bolt threads in all the way smoothly by hand that it can't have stretched or distorted that much.

But again, replace it.

DELshaneSOL

never knew that,just did myn couple days ago didnt replace it
torque to 130ft lbs drove 60 miles already
so i think its ok this time but ill replace it next time to be safe

lostforawhile

well what happened is so many people had trouble with the bolt, they went back to the drawing board, mine was a new factory bolt and the service bulletin came with it. The service bulletin supersedes any other info on how to tighten the bolt, the factory is saying to never reuse it. I wish I could find that dam bulletin,it needs to be stickied here. I know it called for a reasonable amount of torque that any torque wrench could handle, then you marked the bolt in relation to the pulley, turned it a specific number of degrees, ran the engine, then turned it another number of degrees. thats the official honda info, I just can't remember the specs. The factory bolt really doesn't cost much, it's cheap insurance. you NEED the tool, even with it it's a son of a bitch to remove, the tool locks the pulley to the car, whether you use an impact, or whatever it still needs to be locked. I paid 45 bucks for mine and it was worth every penny removing that bastard. I have a 1/2 drive ratchet welded solid as a breaker bar, and even with a 5 foot pipe and me jumping on it with all 220 pounds I thought it was never going to come loose. I'm going to have that bastard bolt sealed in a clear cube, and it's going to be a paperweight.

lostforawhile

it's a torque to yield bolt, just like some head bolts are one time use.

DELshaneSOL

Yes but it dosnt say in the book to replace that bolt, but it does say to replace the head bolt
They should update it

lostforawhile

it was updated thats why the service bulletin

98civdx

~1 year on mine with the bolt reused...

Do you know when it was revised? You are the only person I've heard of saying replace the bolt.

lostforawhile

I had bought a new factory bolt for the 98 civic a couple of years ago, and it came with a factory service bulletin paper showing the new torque specs and it said the new bolt design wasn't to be reused, I couldn't have used it anyway, I practically destroyed it removing it.

98civdx

Oh ok, that would explain why I haven't heard that.

I came very close to rounding off the one on my friends GSR. Thankfully it broke free before. the bolt was so chewed up the socket was slipping on it. lol

B serious

iTrader: (1)

I don't really like heating that bolt because of the oil pump behind it...plus heating it doesn't really seem to work most of the time.

I have a powerful impact and a big *** air compressor because I work on tons of cars for myself and people in the area.

For a more cost effective option, the crank pulley tool with some breaker bars works great. However, sometimes you have to drop the engine down a bit past the frame rail to use it. No biggie.

Sometimes, I can just use a big extension on a big bar to crank that bolt out while the car is in 5th gear and I'm holding both rotors in place using screwdrivers in the vanes against the caliper. But I have had clutches slip while doing this and the motor mounts take up SO much of the power that you put into the bar and they move a ton. So this method sucks, IMO.

The key to getting that bolt of semi easily is to hold the motor nice and solid. That crank pulley tool holds it solid. The bolt comes off a lot easier at that point.

If the engine is out of the car and you don't have that pulley tool, you can use a screwdriver in one of the flywheel bolt holes (not the ring gear) to hold the flywheel against some of the block webbing. Then you crank on it with a big *** breaker bar. This holds the motor solid and the bolt comes off fairly easily. Use a faster motion on the breaker bar instead of slowly cranking it. You just yank it backwards or stomp on it.