tony_2018

I can't remember where I read it, was here on HT or D-series, it was one of the build threads.

DumpdEJ6

From what I've seen you just use straight SAE 30w for break in...that's what I'm planning on using for breaking in my LS/VTEC I'm putting together. But then again, I've never broken in an engine before, so don't take my word as gospel.

ferio-ichi3

Thats what I figured, but the bro said i can use regular motor oil. Its kind of tough finding a non detergent/high zinc sae30 oil.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Oh break in oil. You might have seen it on my build thread!

Torco TBO. It's basically ******* awesome for a fresh rebuild. It's a little pricey, but for the sake of knowing it'll treat your motor right for the first 50 miles, well worth the cost. Remind me, you used Torco assembly lube too, right?

TracerAcer2.2L

Yes, Torco for sure. I am using it as well with their lube. I know you saw that on my build thread

ferio-ichi3

I actually didnt see that in any of you guy's build hahahaha. Notaracist,havent seen you in a while, thought you got banned
Nope, i used lucus assembly lube instead! Thanks for the suggestions guys, ill order that. What about after the 50 miles? More torco? Or something else?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

There are different schools of thought. Personally, I'm going a hard 50 miles for initial break-in, changing out for fresh TBO, another 500 miles, then going to standard full synthetic. 50 miles is all it takes to break in an engine properly, though.

ferio-ichi3

Indeed there is! Im more worried about the oils, i will be going hard on it but im kind of scared about my tight main clearances. If it lasts 500, hell if it lasts 50 hard miles, ill be so happy.

TracerAcer2.2L

Mini thread jack:

All I need to break in on mine is cams and stage 2 clutch, which takes 500miles to break in. However, I can't drive 500 miles without a tune. How can I have a dyno tune safely without it being broken in?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I've asked the same question of people in the past. The two answers I've gotten are "screw a 500 mile clutch break-in, break it in hard, we do it on the track/drag strip/[insert stupid road here] and don't have problems", and "use an old clutch disc for the 50 mile break-in, then resurface the flywheel and pressure plate, and put a new disc in". I'm personally going with option 2 - healthy OEM clutch for break-in and pre-turbo, then swapping in a properly suited clutch when it sees FI.

TracerAcer2.2L

Hm those are pretty conflicting answers! I have to take my whole motor out to take the tranny out so unless it's absolutely necessary I won't be going with option 2 lol. Surely the clutch would be good for just a few dyno runs

ferio-ichi3

Well everything i got is new, so itll be a new break in for everything. I will break it in on my back road. Its literally a mile and half and no one drives on it. Im going to get my chip from phearable for now.. im just going to semi high rpm pulls and let vacuum do its thing. I could pay the 100 for the break in, but i think ill do that **** my self.

ferio-ichi3

Goodies are on its way hereeeeeeee

tony_2018

OH yeah it was your build thread I think I was reading this on. No progress bud?

ferio-ichi3

Chipped ecu came in today along with other stuff!

You can see the other goodies in my apearance build. Link in my sig!

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Eh, I've been sneaking in work here and there, but between weather, work, and interest. I should be able to post an update soon, just need it to not ******* snow today or tonight.

tony_2018

Damn. lucky you w/ snow days.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

which tuning option are you going with?

Snow days? Pfft, I don't get snow days. I'm a professional, not a student. Snow that isn't on the mountain just gets in my way. Hate that ****.

DumpdEJ6

Not to get off topic on this thread, but it seems everyone here is going for the "hard break-in", I asked my dad who has build a few engines and he scoffs at the hard break in procedure and says to baby it for xxx amount of miles. He's also kinda old school, I doubt he has broken in a new Honda engine. Anyone experienced here who would like to weigh in? Mods can delete this if it's too "hi-jack-y".

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

tony_2018

As NAR stated, everybody does things differently. Sure you say break it in by babying it for XXX miles, but dont tell me you don't have the urge to gun it. Friend just rebuilt a miata engine and didn't break it in properly............I'm praying..

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

The site I linked actually shows the difference between a hard break-in vs a soft break-in, from a standpoint of what it does to the engine. There's nothing "wrong" with a soft break-in, per se, but it's not the optimal way to do it. With a soft break-in, you're only getting maybe 90% ring seal, and that's it. With a hard break-in, you're getting more like a 98% ring seal. More ring seal = better compression = more power, simple as that.

ferio-ichi3

Go on..

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Give the link I posted a click. They have all sorts of fun stuff. Even pictures that show how much blowby you get with a "soft" break-in I kind of understand the theory behind it, but that guy does it for a living.

ferio-ichi3

Thanks for posting that! Definitely needed for those who dont know.. how does my timing look notaracist?