Ephemeros

Sorry for the bump, just wanted to say this is a fantastic guide that I will be using soon to replace both axles on my 96 Civic LX.

One question, though...probably going to get reman axles but there seems to be several brands. Are they pretty much all the same? Looks like they all run about $60 per axle.

hatchbake

Both my axles popped out after a friend worked on my 1996 Civic Hatchback. I wanted to avoid taking off the tie rod. After reviewing this thread and trying various recommended methods I tried (and failed) to jury rig a fulcrum using some heavy metal with the front wheels holding it down.

Then in frustration, I decided to try to hammer the axles on with the wheels still on. Here is what worked for me.

I broke the left wheel bolt loose using a 1 1/4" socket and a 3' cheater bar with emergency brake set. That just barely worked, skidding the tire on solid concrete! I then unthreaded the nut about 1/4" and placed a 15/16" socket on a 3/4" extension using the lip of the nut to center it and tapped it with a 2 lb sledge. The axle had been replaced fairly recently so it popped loose easily. Then I removed the nut and used a socket extension as a punch to drive the left axle on. It took just a few light blows to move the axle so the end could be seen slightly recessed in the hub. I checked the space between the inner joint and transaxle and saw maybe 1/8". That looked about right in comparison to the pics in this thread. Jacking upt the car and going under I was able to grab the axle and jerk it back out enough so I could catch the threads with the wheel nut. I tightened the wheel nut so the original crimp aligned with the key way on the axle. The inner joint stayed in place! Hooray!

Using the same procedure on the right side did not work right away so I tried a bigger hammer, a 10 lb sledge with my wife holding a fairly long 3/4" socket extension in place with a 15/16" box end wrench over it as a handle. After several strong blows I started to worry about breaking something. So I decided to jack up the wheel with a floor jack, put the car in gear and rotate the wheel while tapping with the big sledge. The axle seated almost immediately. Apparently the splines had not been aligned.

So thanks to this great thread inspiring me to keep trying, my Civic can now roll! Hope this helps someone with popped axles.

NoXqcsMotosport

Thanks to the OP this was very easy with the step by step pics.

I documented my swap with driveline shop axles here on my blog
http://noxqcsmotorsports.wordpress.c...hafts-install/

filthy_enlisted

Nice write up. Going to try this tomorrow.

California98Civ

This was a great tutorial that helped me replace both axles on my 1998 Civic DX today. The only minor problem was that I could not remove the lower ball joint. I did not want to risk damaging the ball joint boot or the joint itself by hitting the arm harder or prying it loose. So I did what a friend suggested and also removed the other three bolts on the lower control arm, allowing me to swing the arm out of the way and get enough room to remove the old axles and install the new. Took nearly 8 hours all told, but it was not that hard. Thanks.

Skullrider86

Thanks for the step by step of the axle replacement, just did my first one today on my 90 civic. Had no problems just a pain in the a## snap ring that didn't want to go in to place.

serversurfer

I'm headed to Pick 'n Pull in the morning to try to pull a knuckle/hub, but I have a dumb question I wanna ask before I get there and realize the answer was important…

When I'm knocking the axle out of the spindle, where exactly is the axle gonna go? I assume it can't go deeper in to the transmission, so how will it have room to come out of the hub? Seems like I'd need to knock the hub away from the axle, rather than vice versa, but that's not what the instructions say. Also, will a big, rubber mallet be sufficient for this, or do I need a metal sledge? Or would a carpenter's hammer work? (Helms says to use a "plastic hammer," FWIW.)

Oh, and as long as I'm asking about tools, I've got a Ryobi One+ impact wrench, rated at 200 ft-lb, and the high-capacity "lithium +" battery that's supposed to boost torque by 35%, giving me 270 ft-lb (on paper, at least). Is this likely to pull the axle nut? I'll grab a breaker bar, just to be safe. Mostly wondering about others' experience here.

serversurfer

Anyone?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

How about just follow the DIY to the letter! Where does it say ANYTHING about "knocking" the axle out of the spindle? It says plainly to "tap". As far as your impact driver how about try it and find out? If it doesn't work then use a breaker bar after unstaking the axle nut.

Stop over thinking it and don't second guess the instructions if you aren't in the process of actually doing it.

serversurfer

When I'm TAPPING the axle out, where will it go?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

No where.

94preludeguy

It's just going to hang there after you knock out it. This is why you disconnect the LCA, balljoint and fork so you can swing the hub out of the way. Prybar on the transmission side and walla.

You'll need a decent sized cheater bar to get the axle nut off. I always use a breaker bar and a big steel pipe over the breaker bar. Works great.

Also grumble sometimes "tapping" is not enough. My old DSM I NEVER got the driver side axle out. Sold the shell with a damn axle still in the hub lol.

The reason you want to tap it out though is you'll risk damaging the threads and the nut won't fit anymore.

serversurfer

Thanks a lot, Guy; very helpful. <3

So I'm basically just breaking the rust loose? That's what I figured, but I didn't wanna be standing in the yard when I realized I actually had no idea what I was doing. lol

I'll be sure to hit Home Depot and get a nice piece of pipe before I head out. Thanks again. ^^

94preludeguy

Out of all the Hondas I've changed axles in (4 or 5 now, many with 200k+) all of them broke free fairly easily. If there is visible rust, its always a good idea to spray some ZEP-45 or other solution on it the night before and some hours prior to working on it. However if you're pulling axles at a junkyard you don't have this option. Which I don't know if I would chance an axle at the yards, but a used OEM is still better than some of the junk out there. I just bought new so I'd have lifetime replacement, no matter how crappy they are. So far mines held up fine for 2-3k miles.

serversurfer

Oh, I'm actually going to nab a knuckle/hub assembly, since I managed to trash my hub. I actually stumbled across this thread while trying to determine the size of the axel nut* before I went down there, and in reading the OP, I realized I wasn't 100% clear on separating the axel from the hub.

*Glad I did, since it turns out the 36mm I'd already bought to work on my folks' Odyssey wasn't gonna work. I feel dumb asking some of this stuff, but not nearly as dumb as I feel after having not asked. :p

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Depends on what your definition of tapping is. Regardless, whacking it or tapping it, the axle isn't going anywhere. If you've ever been under your car you can plainly see that the axle can't physically "go" anywhere.

Just follow the DIY. To the letter.

Tickle123

Hate to ask but i have a 1991 integra, but when i went to replace the driver side axle its coming up to be 1-1½ in too short any advice or suggestions? Really tight on money and ive looked at many different axles and tired a bunch of things. I mean there must be something throwing it off. Please help havent drove my car in over a month. Depending on people suck.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

You're in the wrong forum AND the wrong thread.

Johncivic3

Hello,

This is a great write.

Now here is my question. I can not get my Pass side axle out..
Should I remove that plug under the axle. would that reduce the pressure and allow it to come out? I have remove about 10 CV axles in my days and never had a axle not come out like this...

B18B in EG..

Thanks

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

What part of the tutorial are you having difficulty with? There is no pressure. There is a clip holding the axle in. Is the spindle still connected?

fiveOHthreePDX

Awesome tutorial, I actually have my two replacement axles chillin in the hatch right now and just need to find the time to replace them. Will be utilizing this thread to assist in my replacement of the axles. Thumbs Up

entoy

coolvim tom,is helpfull to everyone.keep up the good work tom.
your a man.

gfizzlin

torque your axle nut to manufacture spec. it sets the preload on the bearing or if you don't you'll be buying bearings. Also to aid in removal/ torque of axle nut you can stick a screw driver or suitable punch into rotor vent it will stop turning when making contact with caliper.

meece0927

You know this post would be really helpful for someone who never changed a axle good job dude.

zapa2017

awsome write up