sh!ft

so i swapped a motor into a eg sedan(d16y7 auto) and i drove it over 20 miles and at the last 2 miles the car was flickering and the temp gauge shot up and down, then all the way up. i initially thought it was the tranny ground which after inspection was off. i pulled over by a gas station by my house, and i came to notice the heater core hose coming off the head had busted and a small hole was present.

yesterday, i managed to cut the hose to the point past the hole and fill it with a gallon of water and managed to drive it home. the next day, i went out to fill it up completely with water and while doing so, bled the system. the car ran for over an hour sitting, no issues.

then today, i went to get the car inspected. i pulled up to the shop and was waiting in line, i started to notice a super low idle and then i shut off the car. i decided to turn around and go home to do some last minute checks and cleaning.

i cleaned my t/b my iacv and redid the fitv. i also pulled the iacv plug and readjusted the idle to where i wanted it. after doing so i still had noticed that the cooling fan had not turned on(assuming the switch on the thermostat housing no biggie) and there was a LOT of bubbles coming to the top of the radiator. initially when i pulled into my driveway i felt that the hoses were almost rock hard. i then managed to let some pressure out of the system and then refilled it.

whats getting me is, i put a clip in the fan switch plug to have it running constantly, and the bubbles seemed to reside somewhat, but were still present. im scared i may have screwed up the motor i just spent 16 hours on redoing.




any input or experience would be helpful guys.

tia

Tony M.

Nope, your motor is good sir, it seems as if you just got a lot of air into the coolant system. Get the car to normal temerature and turn the heat on FULL blast, that should help bleed the system.

Try that and report back.

sh!ft

i also would like to add, upon pulling over, i noticed a lot of smoke around the header and from where the hose had busted. once i started putting water into the radiator, i heard a crackling noise right around the cam gear side of the motor, so im scared i may have messed up a water jacket or something like that. but i never heard the noise again after i fixed said issues.


should i leave the cap off while i get the car up to norm temps and run the blower after? or leave the cap on the whole time? assuming thats a no brainer and leave it off the see if it alleviates the bubbles?

Former User

What car?

The D16Y7 doesn't normally have a FITV. What mods?

Tony M.

Leave the cap off from a cold start until full warm up. During the time your car is warming up put the heater on full blast until your car is fully warmed up (By letting the fan cylce a few times) Keep in mind as the car warms up the radiator might start overflowing so put a towel around the rad cap.

sh!ft

sorry i never got around to doing it. had a guy come over and had to wire up his itr lights and fender lights.

the long block is d16y7 ron, the manifold looks to be from a b7 or b8. otherwise all completely stock. its just a car to get from point a to b in, i have the turbo itr and a few hatches if i wanna get cray,

Former User

What ECU?

sh!ft

P06 a51

tony_2018

Thermostat doesn't seem to be opening if your hose is rock hard.

Former User

^Possible blown head gasket. Get a block tester to check for exhaust gases in the coolant.

Was the heater valve on the firewall wide open when you bled the cooling system?

tony_2018

tru dat. need to test for gas in coolant.

sh!ft

yes, yes it was...

tony_2018

sh!ft

got the kit, tested it, and it wouldnt pass this color after 2 to 5 minutes of purging.

before test:




after testing:



seems to me like it may be somewhat contaminated, but not yellow like some of the **** i've seen online and through videos etc