1fastsi

Ok I'll help here..
Before you start the bleeding process suck out the master with an old spray pump(like on a windex bottle).Refill the master with the new brake fluid.

On the step in question-after you have done the above.Start at the passenger rear bleeder and have your friend pump the brake pedal a couple of times,after that have him/her hold a steady pressure on the pedal while you crack the bleeder open,when you see the fluid stop flowing close the bleeder and repeat that side till the fluid starts to flow clear.-make sure the bleeder is closed when the helper is pumping the brakes or releases the brake pedal.If its open you will suck air back into the system.

Repeat the bleed starting at the pass rear->to the dr rear->pass frt->dr frt..
make sure you keep an eye on the master so you don't run dry...hope that helps...

Oh and btw never mix DOT3/4 with 5 EVER...they don't mix.

ReactioN

again confused lol

Can you write it out like Anothersi?

AnotherSI

oh my god, somebody else on here actually knows what the hell they are talking about!

makoto

i didnt read 95% of the thread, but anothersi's way seems pretty good. start the bleeding at the rear passenger, then rear driver, then passenger and finally the driver.

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

look at this link... there are some boiling points.

somebody said something about dot 5.5? im pretty sure he's talking about 5.1

dot 5 is silicon based, and yes, it doesnt absorb water. it also isn't compatible with stock systems. from what i heard, its will screw up rubber hose/seals.

as people said before dot3/4/5.1 are hydroscopic. the differences are USUALLY higher boiling points (wet and dry) 5.1>4>3

good luck fellow desert rat.

ReactioN

si your back just tell me what you ment on the bolded part were i quoted you and im good!

Edit thanks bro im just gunna stick too dot 3 until i upgrade to GSR front and Ls rears

AnotherSI

alright, when ya got the car up in the air and tires off....
1. take the reservior cap of and suck the dirty fluid out.
2. fill the reservior with clean fluid and cap it.
3. have a buddy pump the brake petal until it is firm and hold pressure on it.
4. starting in the sequence listed by fastsi, crack open the first bleeder screw.
5. your buddy should still be applying constant pressure while you open the bleeder. the petal will drop to the floor.
6. once you close the bleeder, he can lift off the brake and pump them back up till the petal is firm again. now your back at step 3.

the reason is said to repeat this process at the same wheel until the reservior is 2/3 of the way empty is because that clean fluid you put in it is going to work its way through the line and out the bleeder screw.

do one wheel at a time repeating this same process. never let the master cylinder reservior to completely empty or your gonna have a hell of a time getting all the air out of the system.

ReactioN

So how would i suck out the dirty brake fluid its kinda low right now

AnotherSI

i guess what fastsi said, an old squirt bottle nozzle.... not sure, never had to rig something up... always just used my vacuum pump....dont see why it wouldnt work. just make sure not to get any brake fluid on your pretty paint, brake fluid will ruin it.

ReactioN

ohh ok i got it just to make sure ill make a MS PAINT DIAGRAM Of the Dirty fluid!

thanks you guys are the ****!

\Edit let me know if its right




Modified by ReactioN at 9:57 PM 8/3/2008

ReactioN

bump!

Xscort

From just randomly reading a post not too long ago, bleed in this order as mentioned earlier in the thread. Pass. Rear, Driver Front, Driver Rear, Pass. Front. for Hondas.

I used an old hand soap squirt nozzle, use wat you please, just make sure that you suck some brake cleaner fluid up through the nozzle to clean watever solvent that was previously in the nozzle.

After that, squirt out SOME of the fluid from the MC reservoir. Almost to the bottom, but not where the fluid is below it. Not Fill the reservoir with FRESH DOT 3 or 4 to the top. Following the bleeding order, have your partner pump the brake a few times and yell HOLD IT so they can hear you, using a 10mm wrench/socket, I believe, break the bleeder screw loose so the fluid that is already compressed can squirt out. REPEAT this process on the specific brake caliper you're on until the fluid comes out CLEAR(or whatever color the FRESH/NEW brake fluid is, most are clear). Do the same for ALL brakes, the next 3 shouldn't take as long as the 1st.

Refill the reservoir if need be keeping it full. Keep an eye on it, after every 8-10 pumps or "so."

This isn't the only method, but one way of doing it. 1-3 can do it, depending on the equipment/tools. If you have a 2 buddies hanging around, have one keep an eye on the fluid level/add fluid, and have the other pump the brakes.

If you have to strip the bleeder valve, be sure to get another one. I've stripped mine a couple of times. I've used line wrenches and sockets to get them off. Don't know which is best.

ReactioN

thanks dude that is super sweet but isnt it pass rear->to the dr rear->pass frt->dr frt..

well thats all i need to know now is order Thanks Honda tech!

Xscort

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1740183

Targa say's PR-DF-DR-PF, I'm just quoting him.

1fastsi

Yeah forgot its a diagonally split system...so pass rear->dr frt->dr rear->pass frt...just think of the lines in an X pattern..and yes funny ms paint..I just used a windex bottle sprayer as thats what I had handy at the time.
GL on your bleed.

Frickr

one tool i found out that helps out alot, and is a cheap add-on to a tool box is a one man bleeder i got mine at napa for 4 bucks or something. but its just a small checkvalve and a tube so you cant suck any air or fluid back up from the line. then just crack the valve and pump the brakes tilll you see either clear fluid and no air bubbles.
http://www.rjtool.com/p-1285-o....aspx




Modified by Frickr at 3:44 PM 8/5/2008