Former User

Car: 00 Civic EX coupe

Introduction:

In this thread, the door glass moldings removed and painted are parts #1 (driver's door) and #3 (passenger side) here:



The original paint (actually rubber as pointed out by 94EG8) was chipped and cracked, exposing the stainless steel underneath. Below is how my passenger side molding looked. The driver side molding looked much worse (not shown).





Removing the molding from the door:

The diagram below is taken from the 92-95 Civic service manual. No such diagram is found in the 96-00 Civic service manual, though the procedure for outer molding removal is similar.



Here's what I did:
After removing the door panel and window glass, below is what you'll see from the interior-side of the door. The molding is secured to the door by five yellow plastic clips, each with two vertical tabs positioned outside the molding:


Order and numbering of clips -- mirror/tweeter side: clip-1 clip-2 clip-3 clip-4 clip-5 :latch side

Removal of the molding requires you to get the two vertical tabs of each clip behind the molding. You obviously don't want to break off the tabs of the clips, otherwise you'll need to drive to your local Honda dealer for replacements. Below is the procedure I used. I only broke one tab (clip still usable), and this was the first clip I did. Chalk it up to learning experience. After this, I was able to remove all remaining nine clips without breaking any (five in each door).

1) Start with center clip 3, as this area of the molding is most easily pried up. When done with clip 3, do the same for the other clips in this order: clip 4, clip 5, clip 2, and clip 1, where clip 1 is nearest the tweeter speaker and clip 5 is nearest the door latch (see picture above). Clips 1 and 2 are done last because the molding inserts into the door on the mirror/tweeter side and therefore does not as easily pry upward there.

2) Pry up the molding immediately adjacent to each clip using a flat head screwdriver and simultaneously use a second flat head screwdriver to press the clip downward at each tab until both tabs are released from the molding (see Steps 2a and 2b pictures below). For the latter step, it is most important to press downward slowly and carefully to avoid breaking off the clip tabs.

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Step 2a picture: Gently pry the molding upward from below. You will hear the clip release from the door. While holding the lifted molding in place, gently push the closest tab downward and rearward until the tab is positioned behind the molding:



Step 2b picture: Do the same for the second clip tab:



Note that prying the molding upward may slightly bend the metal molding, but don't worry because it is easily reshaped.
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3) When the two tabs of all five clips are pushed behind the molding as described above in the order specified, it can now be lifted from the latch side. Then remove the molding by pulling it out from the mirror/tweeter side of the door. When this is done, all five clips remain attached to the molding like this:



The clips are removed from the molding by sliding them along the groove they fit in and out one end:





Scraping, priming, and painting the molding:



While doing the steps described below, take great care not to cut off or damage the rubber trim that lies above and below the center stainless steel area of the molding that you will paint (see below). Use a razor blade to scrape the old rubber from this center area.

In sun exposed areas of the molding, the old rubber is brittle and easy to remove. In this area, scraping should yield a result like this:



In the more sun-protected area near the mirror/tweeter, the rubber is hard and its removal is more difficult. After scraping, this area may look like this:



At this point, remove all remaining patches of rubber from the center stainless steel surface by scrubbing with steel wool. Then clean the steel surface with brake cleaner to remove any oil. The molding should now look like this (note the black rubber trims above and below the center steel area that you must keep intact):



It's now time to prime and paint. I used this primer and flat black paint:



Prime - Apply two thin coats 2 minutes apart:


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Wait 30 minutes for the primer to dry, and then apply the paint (three thin coats done 2 minutes apart):



The hot Houston temperature and blistering sunlight helped to accelerate drying of the black paint. I waited 8 hours before reinstalling the molding into my Civic, though overnight to 24 hours would probably be best.

Reinstalling the molding:

Installation of the molding is much easier than removal.

Slide the clips back into the molding with the clip tabs oriented outside of the molding as they were originally prior to removal of the molding (see below).

Clip view from interior facing side of the molding:



Clip view from exterior facing side of the molding:



Space the clips within the molding at their original positions.

Insert molding into mirror/tweeter side of door.



Press the molding down onto door. You will hear all clips click/lock into place when the molding is fully secured onto the door.



Reinstall window glass and door panel.

Done

The Sauce

Cool how-to. I was thinking of doing this myself. Thanks.

motegicivic

Do you have to remove the inner panel? couldn't you just lower the glass?

Former User

The glass blocks access to most of the yellow plastic clips.

bart simpson

excellent!