NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Try to get a working, used distributor, see if that changes your spark color.

shm91

While I'm working on replacing the coil, I needed to top up the ATF - the math part is 3.5k mi (=three months)/ half qt. Looking at the transmission, I saw the fluid was all over (to the front and to the rear, but not on the block) the tranny cover as a bright red color, the leakage starts from under the dizzy. The tranny started screeching while going into reverse, or from one to second gears a month ago. By the way, the right CV axle clicks when starting from stop I thought it could be related.

Former User

Power loss can also be caused by a clogged cat. But first be sure that your engine has a fresh ignition system tune up, a new fuel filter, and no CEL codes.

Captain_Fook

I don't like the sound of 20 MPG. My D16Y7 (in a '99 Civic LX) has 151k miles on the clock, and delivers between 29-35 per fillup (between 10 and 11 gallons per 300 miles ish). I commute four days a week between Colton, CA and Hollywood (64.2 miles door to door), most of which is freeway but a lot of which is in stop/start heavy traffic. On the plus side I'm a pretty gentle driver (I don't sputter along at 50 on the freeway, but I don't drive like the Dukes of Hazzard either) and try to take good care of the car: everything gets replaced and checked when the manual says it should. But on the minus, the aircon is on probably about 60-70% of the time overall (dipping to 30-50% in the winter but rising to 100% in July-September, when SoCal is roasting) and I spend several hours a week in traffic jams. So I'm guessing that my driving pattern is around average in terms of fuel consumption. Unless your entire driving activity is stuff like starting from cold and then driving 2 miles to the store in stop/start traffic, you should be getting a lot more than 20 miles per gallon.

As for ATF, the Haynes Manual states that it should be changed every 30K miles in normal conditions, or every 15K if the car is regularly driven in weather conditions of 90 degrees or above (so that's every 15K for me). I've also read in various places that as with power steering liquid, it's very important only to use genuine Honda OEM automatic transmission fluid -as in, generic Dexron type stuff risks serious transmission damage.

shm91

I tested rpm movement for clogged cat today, and it goes up from first to second gear quick, 0 to 2600 rpm in two seconds.
I replaced the cracked rotor cap (found the crack today), and coil, too. Didn't check the spark color yet, but the performance is still not good. I'm planning to replace the rotor, soon. By the way, I did many stop/go today under very hot sun and air, and I found later today a hint of oil on coolant tank. HG was done three months ago (but the block was not decked, pooha!).

Captain_Fook: thanks for shearing, your car sounds great.

Update: today, the coolant tank didn't have any trace of oil, and the level of coolant seems about the same (not measured precisely, but I've been checking the level visually every couple days).

shm91

Well, after all this, I'm just resorting to shifting faster by taking foot off pedal at each shift point. It's fun and feels like I'm driving manual! (on automatic, for sure haha), and I hope it will save the gas by shifting on time (it's either loss of power or tranny shifting late, so, yeah).

Does anybody know how to get the shifting point on auto tranny faster? I shift usually after 3000 rpm if I push gas pedal about 40 percent from rest.

shm91

Yeahp. The head and block is deformed again in this hot weather. I have no plan for doing HG job again. I have no means to pull the block either, and no lump-sum money. Thanks for the help!

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Hot weather doesn't make a motor warp, consistently or severely overheating it does. Also, doing a proper head gasket job isn't "lump sum" money. An OEM gasket is $30. Add another $10 for the exhaust manifold (which you shouldn't need to replace, if you did it recently), $6 for the intake manifold (which you should replace, because it's paper), and you're looking at $50 max for gaskets. A precision straight edge is less than $5 from Harbor Freight, or less than $10 if you get it from Sears. The machine work to have the head planed shouldn't be more than $60.

tony_2018

This guy is no rookie, he even confirmed it was a 'deformed' head and block.

/Thread

Former User

Da bus fo yu.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Former User

This^ is warped

Get it?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Former User

NotAHumorist

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

shm91

I'm just considering to keep the car.
Is it easier/faster to do the head/block disassembly with the engine outside? (I'm tryna do head/block resurface and bore the cylinder walls).

Also, a mechanic said my civic's not worth doing block resurface, if not head resurface.
He recommended a used engine. He said there are certain limits head/block can be resurfaced. I mean, I'd rather assume the previous owners didn't pull the block at all, since it's all stock. Isn't it that I can use thicker gasket for timing (can I use two OEM HG in a row?)
This is the picture of the block.

Do you have any clue if it can be resurfaced?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

No, you should never stack head gaskets. Blocks usually don't warp. Buy a machinist's straight edge, and check it.

shm91

Alright, I won't stack the HGs. I guess block is fine, too.
While working on the engine issue, I'm experiencing hard-drag toward back right before shift points - the car just decreases speed in few seconds to the cruise speed of lower level gear, if the tranny doesn't shift. So, to shift the resisting transmission, I let the pedal off for a very short time, then it shifts at around 2000-2400. If I'm pressing the pedal moderately, the car shifts at around 3100 rpm, and I feel the drag.
Also, at fourth gear, the rpm doesn't rise and stays at 1900 rpm. So, I have to press the pedal very hard, and the rpm rises to 2500 rpm and the speed increases moderately. On down hill, it goes really fast. It also cruises fine at high speed.
At fifth gear, it has much power, and I can go uphill at 75 mph with no difficulty.

tony_2018

The automatic is a 4spd buddy, where are you getting 5th gear from? Unless your experiencing the torque converter lockup.

shm91

Oh, okay. Got ya.
By the way, I got compression again and it's 203/195/193/193. I don't know why it's so high. This is higher than three months ago. I only did ignition tune-ups. But then, I heard 180 psi is the mean value for Y7. The acceleration and the gas mileage is still bad. Confused..

shm91

Alright. Would not lubricating head bolt threads cause problem for the head? I didn't lubricate them, but did use three step tightening sequence, using CDI/Snap-on torque wrench. Could it be the source of the problem (three months after doing a HG job)?
If yes, could I just take out the head bolts one by one, lubricate them, and put them back, without doing the service manual procedures?

shm91

Bump anybody?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

If you didn't lubricate them, then you didn't properly torque them. Torque values jump around when metals aren't properly lubed. It might help your problem, or it might already be too late.

GSA

I had the same problem, turned out to be the oil filter, it was a fake aftermarket filter. As soon as i replaced it my car started red lining again,,, good luck

shm91

I did the last oil/filter replacement a few months ago at a mechanic shop. I'm not sure about its taking much role in my car problem. But, I guess I'll look again in the area. Thanks.