d15b
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d15b
i have a 98 ek hatch dx .. i am looking to put a d15b in it.. but all i find is the ones with 2 v-tec solineds.. do they come with single v-tec solined and what is the difference between the 2???
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Re: (batallic)
Personally, i'd rather have the D15B, it has a higher redline at 7200 (instead of the Y8s 6900), the same hp (approx. 130). But the best part of all!? Cheaper insurance because it's in a smaller bracket, 1.5 liter instead of 1.6.
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Re: d15b (ektuner115)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ektuner115 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a 98 ek hatch dx .. i am looking to put a d15b in it.. but all i find is the ones with 2 v-tec solineds.. do they come with single v-tec solined and what is the difference between the 2???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes they come in a standard SOHC vtec version with only 1 vtec solenoid, but these are OBD1 only, you can run it in OBD2 car though, either using a jumper harness and an OBD1 ECU or using a P2P ECU.
The versions with 2 vtec solenoids are called 3 stage vtec. They're neat as they are designed both for fuel mileage and power, but its very hard to get the P2J ECU thats required to run them properly and even harder to find the manual version of the ECU.
Yes they come in a standard SOHC vtec version with only 1 vtec solenoid, but these are OBD1 only, you can run it in OBD2 car though, either using a jumper harness and an OBD1 ECU or using a P2P ECU.
The versions with 2 vtec solenoids are called 3 stage vtec. They're neat as they are designed both for fuel mileage and power, but its very hard to get the P2J ECU thats required to run them properly and even harder to find the manual version of the ECU.
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Re: (slomofo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slomofo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just get a Y8, D15B is overrated and there's not really any sense in downgrading from 1.6 to 1.5.</TD></TR></TABLE>
d15b makes more power up top than z6/y8
d15b makes more power up top than z6/y8
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yeah I would shoot for a z6 or y8, preferably a z6 though which is basially an obd1 d15b(for all of you that are not aware a d15b is a 1.6, look it up) I am pretty sure the obd1 d15b has a more aggressive cam in it. dont get the obd2 d15b unless you can get your hands on one of those ecus because other wise its kind of a waste of that particular motor.
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Re: (big-cat)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by big-cat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah I would shoot for a z6 or y8, preferably a z6 though which is basially an obd1 d15b</TD></TR></TABLE>
And why would you suggest that exactly? There are very few reasons to run an OBD1 Z6 in an OBD2 civic. The only ones I can really think of are the Y8s have more of a tendency to spin rod bearings and If your running a turbo so you can tune. Stock Y8s make marginally more power then Z6s.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by big-cat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(for all of you that are not aware a d15b is a 1.6, look it up)</TD></TR></TABLE>
False. The D15B vtec is a 1.5L, if you had looked that up you would have seen that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by big-cat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am pretty sure the obd1 d15b has a more aggressive cam in it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are correct on that, but the difference isn't all that signifincant from what i've been reading.
And why would you suggest that exactly? There are very few reasons to run an OBD1 Z6 in an OBD2 civic. The only ones I can really think of are the Y8s have more of a tendency to spin rod bearings and If your running a turbo so you can tune. Stock Y8s make marginally more power then Z6s.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by big-cat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(for all of you that are not aware a d15b is a 1.6, look it up)</TD></TR></TABLE>
False. The D15B vtec is a 1.5L, if you had looked that up you would have seen that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by big-cat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am pretty sure the obd1 d15b has a more aggressive cam in it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are correct on that, but the difference isn't all that signifincant from what i've been reading.
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Re: (97Ej6mike)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">d15b makes more power up top than z6/y8</TD></TR></TABLE>
To give one further quote for your sig, 97Ej6mike is correct. The Z6 and Y8 both make a little more torque due to their slightly larger displacement. But the D15B vtec makes a little more top end power.
To give one further quote for your sig, 97Ej6mike is correct. The Z6 and Y8 both make a little more torque due to their slightly larger displacement. But the D15B vtec makes a little more top end power.
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Re: (94EG8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94EG8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And why would you suggest that exactly? There are very few reasons to run an OBD1 Z6 in an OBD2 civic. The only ones I can really think of are the Y8s have more of a tendency to spin rod bearings and If your running a turbo so you can tune. Stock Y8s make marginally more power then Z6s.
False. The D15B vtec is a 1.5L, if you had looked that up you would have seen that.
You are correct on that, but the difference isn't all that signifincant from what i've been reading.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes the z6's head does flow better, the y8 has a bigger plenum in the IM the y8 has a couple oiling issues which is more PRONE to spin bearings. the z6 has better oiling systm and the oil pick up is larger in Diameter. the z6 tranny has aluminum forks and the y8 has steel forks. everything is debatable and I could of swore that the d15b was a 1.6L because they use the same crank as a 1.6 and the rod length is the same but apparently the piston height from bottom of the piston is 84.5 or whatever and the d16s are 90. we could debate this for 3284293487hours or we could help the guy.
so what are you looking to do and why did you choose the d15b?
And why would you suggest that exactly? There are very few reasons to run an OBD1 Z6 in an OBD2 civic. The only ones I can really think of are the Y8s have more of a tendency to spin rod bearings and If your running a turbo so you can tune. Stock Y8s make marginally more power then Z6s.
False. The D15B vtec is a 1.5L, if you had looked that up you would have seen that.
You are correct on that, but the difference isn't all that signifincant from what i've been reading.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes the z6's head does flow better, the y8 has a bigger plenum in the IM the y8 has a couple oiling issues which is more PRONE to spin bearings. the z6 has better oiling systm and the oil pick up is larger in Diameter. the z6 tranny has aluminum forks and the y8 has steel forks. everything is debatable and I could of swore that the d15b was a 1.6L because they use the same crank as a 1.6 and the rod length is the same but apparently the piston height from bottom of the piston is 84.5 or whatever and the d16s are 90. we could debate this for 3284293487hours or we could help the guy.
so what are you looking to do and why did you choose the d15b?
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Re: (big-cat)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by big-cat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">everything is debatable and I could of swore that the d15b was a 1.6L because they use the same crank as a 1.6 and the rod length is the same but apparently the piston height from bottom of the piston is 84.5 or whatever and the d16s are 90.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not going to get into a big argument with you or anything, but the D15B vtec uses its own crank, nothing else uses it. Main bearings are the same as a D15B7, but it uses the larger rod journals like a Z6 and Z6 rods.
To the OP, I second big-cats question, what are you planing to do with the engine? Turbo? or are you just looking for a low mileage engine with a little more kick to it? or something completely different?
I'm not going to get into a big argument with you or anything, but the D15B vtec uses its own crank, nothing else uses it. Main bearings are the same as a D15B7, but it uses the larger rod journals like a Z6 and Z6 rods.
To the OP, I second big-cats question, what are you planing to do with the engine? Turbo? or are you just looking for a low mileage engine with a little more kick to it? or something completely different?
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Re: (big-cat)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by big-cat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I could of swore that the d15b was a 1.6L because they use the same crank as a 1.6 and the rod length is the same but apparently the piston height from bottom of the piston is 84.5 or whatever and the d16s are 90. we could debate this for 3284293487hours or we could help the guy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The D15B uses the same rotating assembly dimensions as the D15Z1. The crank is the usual 1.5 dimensions for stroke, but the rods are indeed stock D16 length (I think the big end is D16 size as well). This is why the compression height of the piston had to be reduced. Essentially what this does is it alters the 'rod length to stroke' ratio (commonly called the 'rod/stroke' or 'R/S' ratio) to be more conducive to higher RPM stability.
The D15B uses the same rotating assembly dimensions as the D15Z1. The crank is the usual 1.5 dimensions for stroke, but the rods are indeed stock D16 length (I think the big end is D16 size as well). This is why the compression height of the piston had to be reduced. Essentially what this does is it alters the 'rod length to stroke' ratio (commonly called the 'rod/stroke' or 'R/S' ratio) to be more conducive to higher RPM stability.
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Re: (Kendall)
switching to the y8 would still be a better choice, due to its usdm availability, and OBD-II standard.
you might make more power with the d15b (might), but its not worth the trouble IMO
you might make more power with the d15b (might), but its not worth the trouble IMO
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Re: (jdmsiR20)
After reading everyones inquiries, you all have good points, but the OP still hasn't replied what he mostly wants out of the new engine. I still think the D15B is best choice though. Don't forget lower insurance!
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Re: (B33FCAK3)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B33FCAK3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But the best part of all!? Cheaper insurance because it's in a smaller bracket, 1.5 liter instead of 1.6.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You would have to first of all tell the insurance company you swapped the engine, which i'm pretty sure no one ever bothers to do, and even at that I don't think it would make any difference at .01 of litre difference.
You would have to first of all tell the insurance company you swapped the engine, which i'm pretty sure no one ever bothers to do, and even at that I don't think it would make any difference at .01 of litre difference.
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oh snap that bitch has got vtak!!!!!!!!!!
no but seriously, do you want good gas milage? you want it to be quick? fast? reliable? a DD? n/a? forced induction? a corvette killer?(that is what I am shooting for, 350whp with pump gas on a pretty built d16 and painting the steelies pink for when I rock some corvettes day .
no but seriously, do you want good gas milage? you want it to be quick? fast? reliable? a DD? n/a? forced induction? a corvette killer?(that is what I am shooting for, 350whp with pump gas on a pretty built d16 and painting the steelies pink for when I rock some corvettes day .
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Re: d15b (ektuner115)
ok i have a 98 ek hatch ...i am pulling the motor in 3 weeks.. i am trying to run a daily driven turbo setup.. with substantially amount of boost with out worrying about blowing the motor... i was gonna use my d16y7 bottom end with turbo pistons and turbo rods and etc.. and build a d16y8 vtec head.. pretty much a mini me swap.. but some one told me i should by a jdm motor because the heads dont have emission humps.. soo it would flow better.. so i dunoo.. so if anyone could shoot me in the right direction on what motor to use.. it would be great...
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Re: d15b (ektuner115)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ektuner115 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i have a 98 ek hatch ...i am pulling the motor in 3 weeks.. i am trying to run a daily driven turbo setup.. with substantially amount of boost with out worrying about blowing the motor... i was gonna use my d16y7 bottom end with turbo pistons and turbo rods and etc.. and build a d16y8 vtec head.. pretty much a mini me swap.. but some one told me i should by a jdm motor because the heads dont have emission humps.. soo it would flow better.. so i dunoo.. so if anyone could shoot me in the right direction on what motor to use.. it would be great... </TD></TR></TABLE>
on that note boost your y7 if you want to do anything to the motor swap the tranny and or the IM(we have the worst trannies and intake manifolds, they are both horrible) your y7 is more than capable of being boosted. I have been rocking my y7 for nearly a year and a half now and as long as it is TUNED RIGHT(I really cannot emphasize how much that matters its like haveing a baby and not taking care of it via feeding it and haveing a baby and feeding it). which baby do you think is going to last longer? its pretty much the same with a tuned car, if it is tuned right then you wont have to worry about the engine dying on you. if you need help finding a tuner let me know. and or any other questions. alot of it is searching though. its totally up to you though.
Do you have any goals? like quarter mile times? whp goal? certain car you just would really like to hand his *** to him?
on that note boost your y7 if you want to do anything to the motor swap the tranny and or the IM(we have the worst trannies and intake manifolds, they are both horrible) your y7 is more than capable of being boosted. I have been rocking my y7 for nearly a year and a half now and as long as it is TUNED RIGHT(I really cannot emphasize how much that matters its like haveing a baby and not taking care of it via feeding it and haveing a baby and feeding it). which baby do you think is going to last longer? its pretty much the same with a tuned car, if it is tuned right then you wont have to worry about the engine dying on you. if you need help finding a tuner let me know. and or any other questions. alot of it is searching though. its totally up to you though.
Do you have any goals? like quarter mile times? whp goal? certain car you just would really like to hand his *** to him?
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Re: d15b (ektuner115)
i dont have really any goals.. i just want a fast and reliable civic... for quater mile time .. i dunooo maybe 12's or 13's... there is some one i want to spank on .. there is a boy around my way with a 94 camaro with a lt1 motor with lil bolts ons... but he talks so much **** about how slow hondas are and he can smoke all hondas.. so i want to show him the deal..
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It really depends on how much money you have to spend but usually when a turbo is all said and done starting out it is between 1500 and 2g's umm but yeah that is doable you prob going to need 210whp ish to play around with an lt1 with bolt ons but yeah should not be hard I can beat on stock Brand new mustang GTs all day long and make a relatively stock b16 look like he is standing still usually.
here let me make a little list for you real quick and look up those parts and stuff to find out what you are going to need
turbo, charge piping, Front mount intercooler, couplers and clamps for the piping, downpipe, waste gate, turbo manifold, oil lines, oil restrictor, injectors, some sort of tuneing, blow off valve, dumptube, intake and filter for the turbo.
That is a good list to get you started. you are going to want to look up alot of that stuff because it varies ALOT and just type in d16 turbo or d16y7 turbo or what ever in the search button and you can also go on youtube and street fire and type that in to look up and watch vids to inspire you, I have a build thread that I started some where around here(that no one commented on) but has a bunch of pics of what kind of stuff you will need. its going to take a little bit to get what everything does and what not but yea just ask if or pm me or something if you have any questions or use the search button.
here let me make a little list for you real quick and look up those parts and stuff to find out what you are going to need
turbo, charge piping, Front mount intercooler, couplers and clamps for the piping, downpipe, waste gate, turbo manifold, oil lines, oil restrictor, injectors, some sort of tuneing, blow off valve, dumptube, intake and filter for the turbo.
That is a good list to get you started. you are going to want to look up alot of that stuff because it varies ALOT and just type in d16 turbo or d16y7 turbo or what ever in the search button and you can also go on youtube and street fire and type that in to look up and watch vids to inspire you, I have a build thread that I started some where around here(that no one commented on) but has a bunch of pics of what kind of stuff you will need. its going to take a little bit to get what everything does and what not but yea just ask if or pm me or something if you have any questions or use the search button.
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help out
i have a y8 personally i think its slow a hell and it would take a ton to beat an lt1 i got beat by a stock ek and i have some bolt ons IMO stop playin with D seris and go for the amazing power of a DOHC motor : )