MisereNoire

Looks like you had fun. I remember doing this a few years ago...only had 2 seized bushing shells. I ended up using some silikroil (or PB Blaster, or NutBuster if you can find it) on them (let it penetrate between the shell and the bore a little at a time), let them sit overnight, they pressed out in steps the next morning just fine (apply pressure...*ping*, apply more pressure...*pang*, more pressure...*PANG*, press that ****...*POP*). Oh, and I over used the lube just as you did...thing is, they need relubing at 6-8 month intervals...i gots the squeaks man...time to redo this job -_- ......

joey1320

Nice work on the suspension man. Those rusted bushing/bolts are such a freaking pain. Glad you got them out and new ones in. As far as future things, I would do the ss brake lines for a better feel.

Whats the plan for the old suspension? I'll buy it off you.

Norlael

Thanks for the input guys! yea hopefully the rear is not as rusted, need to get this job done asap!

Yea like I said they are in pretty good shape, only 2 issues though. first is that when I painted the car I tagged the rear shocks so they are kinda red + black, easy enough to fix.The second thing is they are non adjustable, so idk if that is a problem for you. If you wanna buy them just pm me an offer and maybe we can work something out.

marcellatwin

Stainless steel braided lines. Definete must. I did this to my Focus and made a HUGE difference, much better feel, way less. On my newly bought old Civic EX (EJ1), I can feel the lines flex under harder braking, just so much travel. It's not only better feel but also safety. They won't wear nearly as much, don't flex constantly, and won't dry rot like rubber does over time. Also when you get them, get the coated ones, cause the steel braids can still break from rocks and dirt and rubing, and sand can still get into the braids. But if you get the coated ones, this won't happen. Look at any Ducati or high end motorcycle and you'll see the coated stainless steel braided lines on all the brakes, cause the lines are exposed. You can also get them in many colors if you want them to match the pretty suspension you have, haha.

Here is the link to the company I got mine from and they still feel like new. These are coated with a PVC for additional protection. Techna-Fit | Brake Line Kits

Great build though, love following your progress and learning a lot. Subscribed.

Norlael

cool thanks ill check these guys out when I get some lines. As for now though I have enough on my plate!

GoldieWang

honestly I just carefully cut it to fit all the plastic around the edges and on the tunnel and it held it fine. I havent drove it yet but I'm constantly in and out of the car as Im finishing the build. It is bubbled up at the heel gaurd on the carpet just a little so if I velcro'd anything that would be the spot but seriously just take your time and do it right!

Norlael

alright sounds good. I think I will use velcro around the heelbox and maybe on the sides and front at the top

Norlael

so got my new suspension setup all in and there are a few things I would like to talk about.

First off is the bushing kit. The kit was pretty complete, and the only problems I had with the was the rear lower control arm were about 1/16" too small. I fixed that problem by leaving the old bearing shells pressed, and boring out the old bushing material. this left me with a proper fit-up. The next problem I had with the bushings was the sway bar bushing links are a universal set. I had to rig up something to have them work. All I did was grind a small amount of the lip off the bushings and put em in backwards. hopefully this will hold up.

Next complaint I have is with the coilovers. to adjust these, you have to undo the whole thing from the lower control arm to set the height. not a super big deal but just s slight annoyance. I do like that the spring rate is seperate fromthe height adjustments though.

Other then those 3 things and the crap I had to deal with in the last post, this was a pretty easy installation. everything from the manufacturers fit right the first time, which for the automotive world is an awesome bonus.

My initial impressions of the BWC coilover kit are good. Despite their unorthodox spring rates, the kit rides really smooth. The only harshness comes from high speed compression, such as when hitting something sticking up out of the road at speed, and that was only one time when I purposely hit a manhole cover to see the feel. So far everything that BWR has claimed about these coilovers has been true. The only thing left to test is if they last the 3 years+ like the warranty states...

The bushings are amazing no single mod to your car will make so much of a difference to the way the car feels as these bushings. Replacing 20 year old bushing slopped out bushings with new tight poly bushings is a night and day modification. so far no squeaking on the bushings, but only time will tell for these and the coilovers.

and without further ado here is my latest photoshoot showing off the new stance!

front and rear wheels at same camber, just barely passing the fender sides:



here you can see just how much camber im running to get this wheel and tire combo to fit



side view, the wheels in the back just ever so lightly rub on off-camber turns, and hard bumps:



another angle so you can see how the wheels just sit past the fenders:



dat a$$:



AND YEP I DO HAVE LED ALTEZZAS COME AT ME BRO!

tony_2018

That just did it, I can't visit this thread no more.........oh the horror that has been done to this poor VX.


Looks clean, so when you plan to convert this sucker to awd?

Norlael

haha, I need to get it turbo'd first I was daydreaming about adding electric motor assist/hybrid system with the turbo.I would chop out the rear trunk area and add electric motors to the rear and get some prius/civic hybrid batteries. (getting cheap now like only $1000 for a civic battery) Then get a huge alternator to charge the batteries. Would probably be good for like 30 second boosts or so.

That's a project for another life or something maybe.....

Gearhead364

Looks good man

marcellatwin

Now THAT is a dream I've been thinking about ever since I saw the Audi's do it years ago at LeMans. I've been thinking of ways to actually do it in one of my cars and the programming, but I still need to learn how to write algorithums and stuff. Let me know through PM if you ever want to swap ideas or want someone to help build it with you cause I would LOVE to try it.

Norlael

just a small update:

got some 4x100 wheel spacers to use for balancing the wheel:



Basically my wheels are not cut from a lathe. Normal aluminum rims are, and because of that the true center is aligned to the hole in the middle of the rim. Since the steel face was stamped the center can be up to 1/16" out of round with the outside diameter. Well how does does the wheel keep from wobbling? The mounting holes are made concentric to the od of the rim, this is called lugcentric, whereas the hole style is called hubcentric. Most modern tire balancing machines use an arbor that goes through the center off the rim providing a hubcentric balance. So what i'm trying to do with these spacers is give a true concentric hub bore that is referenced from the studs.

Hopefully my logic works here and I can get a proper balance, along with 4 wheel alignment.

next up got some resistors for my led turn signals:



Got these bad boys from amazon for $9. Despite being cheap they are a nice unit. The wiring is all heat shrinked and they have a nice solid aluminum body to dissapate heat and the wire is covered in nylon. Seems like a nice heavy duty piece.

Eventually this weekend or Friday, I'm going to get my carpet and seats in, and then stock up on parts for a tranny rebuild. Thinking about getting , K-tuned shifter, Driveshaft shop level 0 axles, Mfactory plate type 1.5 LSD, TBD on the clutch, and I have already bought a master rebuild kit so that is one notch done already...

Have not decided on a clutch yet, but I do know I want to stay away from carbon-kevlar clutches. alot of what I've read is they don't like slipping. Every clutch that i have used in my past projects has been ceramic or cera-metallic, and have had no problems there with my driving style.

Another thing I was looking at was the Speedfactory shift selector return mod thingy
From what the manufacturer is claiming, it will save you from miss-shifiting. For $500 though is this product worth it? I mean for like $200 I probably would not think twice, but for that price I can get the shifter and axles.. Has anyone used this before? Is this a must have mod?

Ok so for a while now I've been saying that I'm going to turbo my car, and I have not really got any turbo parts, so what gives? Well to be honest I have had gutted out cars that all I worried about was turboing it. ( see first 2 projects lol) These cars were quick and all and fun to drive around on the streets, but they get tiring fast. Not always being super reliable or very comfortable. This time around I want to build a nice car first. That has been my thought process this time. As you can see most of what I have done is fix what is wrong a broken first. Once I feel that my car is up to the standard of my own personal likes and preferences, then I will look at the turbo aspect.

Norlael

Yeah that is just a daydream, but I'm keeping my eyes on the components. When I do start to build it I will be sure to detail the whole process, but as for now the conventional build is keeping me busy enough

and feel free to discuss hybrid systems in this thread all you want !!

Mikepsedan_00

Your hatch is so sick! Picked up a few ideas for my 00 sedan.

Mikepsedan_00

I do have a question though. Did you use the loop carpet? Or the Essex? And how do you like it? Did it ever unwrinkle completely?

Norlael

just used loop, and it is not looking too bad, but still have not put it in the car yet, maybe this weekend

Norlael

So I still didn't get around to working on the interior..

Spent most of the day with the car at midas getting a 4 wheel alignment done. Had to take off the front bumper to get it on the rack there:



Holy crap you can see how bad the alignment is from this angle. Happy to report though I got all the corners back into spec and the wheel spacers where sucessful in getting the rims balanced. The part that sucks though was I had to drive all around town trying to get shops to give me an alignment. No one wanted to try and get a lowered car on the rack. Finally got midas to do it even though the guys bitched about having to work on a modded Honda the whole time....

At any rate while the car was at the shop got the DD in the garage for some maintenance:



Basically im getting drivetrain codes thrown and my odb2 scanner wont read them for whatever reason. took it to the stealership and they said it was a pressure fault in one of the solenoids.. immediately I knew the problem was from the tranny fluid I got from autozone...



I know it is hard to see but the fluid is all brown and burnt up, and I only just put it in at the 60k mile service, and the car is at 65k miles.. So when some people say to only use OEM fluid, that is a good idea because the autozone crap almost blew up my transmission..

So that is all done and good and the car is driving alot better but I still have my tranny codes being thrown. I have an OBD2 scanner but it will not reset the manufacturer specific BCM codes, so is there a way that anyone knows how to reset them manually?

K POWA!



At any rate was just wanting to take a picture of the motor for fun and fantasize about when this beast is all old and paid off of how im going to drop this motor into my hatch IDK how many of you have driven the economy grade k-series motor with an auto, but just let me say it does little to show just how much potential a k has.

At any rate I then got the hatch later on in the day started doing some tuneup work. Was having problem with low rpm jumpiness in all gears. you know when you barely step on the pedal and the car snaps. Well that is a sign of a bad TPS sensor. I did an OCV test for 5v at the sensor and tested for .48v at close, and 4.5v at full open. That all checked out and I calibrated the TPS like in this thread and also like this one. Neither one of these helped so I used my Neptune to datalog the problem and it appear real quick. I found out that it was happening as soon as the engine got to operating temp, so I checked out the sensor options and sure enough I have clicked to enable closed loop maps....

So anyways got that all fixed up and everything is all running good now. but before I do leave I would like to give a shout out to a member on here by the name of "Bserious". In one of those useless threads made by "shoutaccord" about gsr fuel mileage, I stated that I was getting around 20-25 mpg highway with my gsr swap and he stated that something was wrong with my car well today when I was fixing the TPS I was under the hood with the fuel pump running and noticed a gas smell:



yep that is the #3 injector to fuel rail o-ring split. It was split on the side and facing just right so that fuel was spraying out clear of the engine and down to the ground. This was making it so that there was little to no fuel smell while the car was running and driving around. Also it was preventing the fuel from puddling in the bay. Good thing I caught this because this is a definite fire hazard.

So all in all free e-beer for Bserious

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

It's doable, but complicated actually. Think about it though, if you have the electric motors, why use the alternator to charge the batteries? Use the motors to brake the rear wheels

We did a KERS conversion on a Tony Kart for senior design regenerative braking and push-to-pass functionality:

Norlael

That is freaking awesome^^^ senior design, so I guess you're an engineering student? same here except I'm only a sophomore. Can't wait til I get to do things like this for a grade

Well my plan for the alternator was to reduce the complexity of the system as a whole, I do agree about the regenerative braking, just not sure how hard it would be to swap over the components. Like you said, it is very complicated. My plan is to start simple and increase the complexity as I learn more about hybrid system management.

This represents my idea though, I want a PTP button. Would be really cool to be racing someone neck to neck and just press a button and out of no where get a nice little boost, without doing things like advancing ignition timing and increasing boost pressure.

street_racer_271

iTrader: (8)

looks like a fun project, ive got a lot of parts for sale that would work on your car, check it out if you're interested

Norlael

cool thanks, ill sub to your thread so I can see when you may have something I need!

Norlael

Oh wow, how time flies. Hard to believe that a month has passed already..

At any rate got some more parts for my tranny rebuild that I'm planning later on in this month:

M Factory gear type lsd:






Got this lsd from syncrotech using the discount code the have here on the forums. Typical High quality piece as usual from M Factory. Going to be nice having traction on 2 wheels now instead of 1. Have some new OEM NTN bearings coming to finish up the install.

New clutch:



Once again I went with M Factory, and once again their quality is awesome. Here is the first thing I noticed when opening the box:



Yep, thats right, a metal alignment tool. Most aftermarket clutch kits come with a plastic tool, whereas this one came with a nice metal one. It's little things like this that say alot about brand quality, thats what made me choose an M Factory clutch over everything else.

Here is another factor that I considered:





6 puck copper-metallic friction material and copper disk. copper is great at radiating heat away and this nice copper disc should do a good job at keeping the disk nice and cool, and therefore prolong clutch life. Also alot of clutches nowadays are made out of kevlar-ceramic material or whatever it is. I dont like this material because it doesn't suit my driving style. Kevlar clutches are prone to burning up when you slip them alot.

And finally DSS stage 0 axles:





Ive know plenty of people to make 500+ whp on these axles without problems, so my 3-350 whp should be no problem for these. Also in the pic you can see the axles splines have been heat treated, and appears to have been quenched in oil. should be some nice axles!

hondaskavenger

Your build is killer to say the least. I am more motivated then ever to document my build once it starts.

Norlael

So going to start this post off by ragging on summit racing. Ordered These battery terminal adapters from them only to get these instead:



so yea, I have the correct posts coming in the mail, just kinda mad that the description says posts, the picture shows posts, and even the bag says posts, but what they meant was the angle bracket things.

Oh well in the mean time I rigged up a solution to hook my SAE terminals to my battery:



Found these terminal adapters for standard thread at the local autozone, but my battery is metric, so just used the bracket I was shipped before. This is just a temp solution until the correct post arrive..

Next thing I did was make a holder for the battery. cut up some angle iron for the bottom:



then welded together a little box shape like this:



Then I welded the box into the stock battery tray and cut some threaded rods:



As you can see I just tackwelded it so that when I go place the battery in its final place I can easily remove this frame and put in a breather box in the stock battery position:



Here is the finished product:





This is by no means the permanent solution for my battery, just need this to get me by for the next 2 weeks until I can pull apart the car to rebuild the tranny, then while its apart for that I'll do the battery proper.

Here is the other thing I did today:



My OEM fan finally decided to take a crap on me so I replaced it with and aftermarket fan. This is the 11" one on xenocron.com. Here you can see it compared in size next to the OEM one:



It is about 1/2" smaller maybe in diameter and about 3 inches less in width.

Pretty sure this is the way you want the blade to face to draw through the radiator, if not this is a reversable design:



And finally here we go got that all installed:



I havent drove the car yet enough for it to warm up to 187 deg, so hoping that the wiring is all cool. Not too worried about it though. Im really hoping that this fan flows enough air. Just from spinning it with my bare hard I was getting a decent flow, so seems like it should be fine. The other problem I came across was the clip things that you run through the rad to hold the fan on, broke on me. So there is only 3 holding it on...

Anyways its getting late and I feel like im just rambling so I'll cut this post here. But before I leave, if anyone reading this has suggestions on what tools to get for a trans rebuild post it up. So far I have the clamshell bearing puller, and internal bearing puller, bench vise, and a shop press. Is there anything in particular that will make my life easier that I didnt list there?