SeaMus MaCk

So i had codes P0336 P0339 on my 98 Civic DX for a while and just didn't feel like changing the sensor. As long as i shifted b4 3,200-3,500 RPM I was okay. If i tried to go over that the car would stutter and then catch itself again. So i bought an after market (BECK/ARNLEY) replacement sensor has a lifetime warranty, and get it installed after spending half a day getting my pulley off. Pull outta the driveway and try and just beat on it for the first time in 6 months.....It just dies on me....push the car back into the driveway, and do it all over again. So for the past few months i've been shifting SUPER early to avoid having this happen to me while I'm driving on the highway. Now the sensor is held in place by one screw. Where do i located it when i install it?? How close or how far from the timing gear do i install it??? What i mean is that since there is only one screw, it still has room to pivot a little bit when it is torqued down. Now do I hold it in place when I tighten it so it doesn't move closer to the gear??? Or do i Let it move close to it and put a piece of paper or something thin in between and pull it out after i torque it down???

Someone pleaseeeee if you have any input on this....i can't down shift in traffic to pass someone without having to pray that the sensor won't fail. ...figured I would clean everything up while i was down there (A/C pulley/bracket,Timing belt cover)

tony_2018

After the install did you clear codes? What codes came up afterwards.

SeaMus MaCk

Yes I cleared codes....No codes come back at all while I drive....Even after it's failed completely....I put a EX cluster in a few weeks ago...so for the 1st time I was able to see the rpm gauge jump....i was doing 70mph....which is right around 3k on the y7 trans...and still no codes even while it was jumping before or after......is it maybe not the sensor at all??>>Something else entirely? Or maybe it's just defective?...My solution was to buy a used OEM...since iI know Honda's are funky about taking OEM parts out of them and not running correctly...but i wanted to get some input before i bought OEM or used the lifetime warranty on the sensor

tony_2018

If there is no code for the ckp sensor than its not your issue. If there is a code please check it. You have other issues.

nub

OP, you're messing with the wrong sensor. P0336 is a Crank Posistion code, for the CKP located in the distributor. What your messing with is the Crank Fluctuation sensor (CKF) which detects missfires.

HondaPartsHero

SeaMus MaCk

Okay...maybe i wrote down the wrong codes....i deleted the history off my scanner....once I changed that sensor out (CKF) the code went away and doesn't sputter as often....it was every day before i changed it....now its more like every 15 days....I just assumed it was defective....but thats for the info....If i happen to find my written notes, I'll double check the codes i wrote down, to the ones I posted on here....Thanks again...just an FYI....i had all 5 misfire codes before I changed the CKF sensor...1,2,3,4 cylinders...along with random misfire code....changed the CKF sensor and they haven't come back since. The only code it throws is for Catalytic Converter Bank 1 after I put the new sensor in so i didn't even mention it....but like I said once i go over 3,500rpm in any gear....it starts to jump....and even dies completely sometimes..but throws no codes...so my problem is in the dizzy then....thanks again guys

tony_2018

Just another reason why I asked for details, everything needs to be posted. Why you chose not to just delays us from helping you. If you assumed the part was a defective than returning it for a replacement should've been the next thing to do.

SeaMus MaCk

All those misfire codes were present before i changed the sensor.....thats why i didnt mention it.....i knew thats what was causing the misfire...thats why i changed it to begin with.....i put the new one in.....NO MORE CODES....BUT STILL THE SAME PROBLEM AS BEFORE....so thats why i am asking.....do you think its defective or something else?....its not a 20 min job to change that sensor out or i would have done it already....if i go past 3k the car jumps....if i keep at it, it dies.....and then doesnt restart....i have said all this info already...oviously the sensor i changed fixed my misfire codes.....i thought the sensor i changed {ckp}and the (rpm sensor) were the same...i was already given info for a possible solution....and was asked if i had codes....and the answer is still no.....thank you everyone ffor your input and help....like i said before i will try to check out the dizzy and see if theres any problems in there....thanks again

09chaplak

Did you change the CFK sensor after the period where you took the third picture in your original post? Looks to me like it didn't go back to it's proper resting place and the alternator belt chewed through it. Happened to mine and it shorted out a few things, maybe somethings going crazy with that. I wasn't getting any codes when it chewed through it either. Just some food for thought. Also, when installing my new sensor what I did was held it in place while I screwed the bolt in until it was pretty snug and then you can let go and torque it to spec with it not moving. I'm pretty sure that there should be one specific spot where the sensor likes to chill too, as in it shouldn't move much once you get it in the right spot. Good luck

SeaMus MaCk

No those pictures are all from the 1st time I changed the Original One out. I tucked the wire where it was supposed to be after I put everything back together. Thanks for the input though, I'll double check...I'm going to do the diagnose that HondaPartsHero Provided me with today so.

SeaMus MaCk

So i measured resistance today between terminal "2" and 6" on the 10-pin dizzy wire hub....The problem wasn't occurring, and went close to redline ( around 6k, didn't want to push it any further) with no problems, and it measured 350-360...so I kept on it until I was able to make the needle jump. The car shut down completely, pushed it back into my driveway, got it to start back up after about 5 min of waiting, and couldn't go over 3,200k without the problem happening. Pulled it back into my driveway, and measured again, and got 385-400 after a few different trips around the block. So I'm assuming the problem is in the dizzy...unless someone has any different ideas....Thank you again HondaPArtsHero.....I'm just going to order a new DIzzy for the car and I'm sure that will clear up the problem....Hopefully....