si0385.

i will be driving and the car will just die... the engine will continue to turn if its in gear obviously but the tack will turn off and if you take it outa gear or step on the clutch it dies and if you step on the gas it does nothing

so the car dies... no spark when you go to crank it back up, but if it sits for a min or 2 (some times more ) and will start...

i was told this could be a coil buf i was under the usumption that if a coil was bad it was bad...

has anyone had a similar problem, any help is appriciated...

i dotn think it matters much but its a 94 ex ls/vtec (type r head)

TIA
-chris

si0385.

anybody?

i wanna see if this happened to anyone before i go buying a $110 coil

si0385.

to the top

deadline

car is misfiring.....hhmmm......

stock_honda_coupe

It does sound like a coil. try to swap with a friend and see if it still happens.

si0385.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deadline &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">car is misfiring.....hhmmm......</TD></TR></TABLE>

nah its not a missfire.. its just dies and when you go to start it back up it has no spark what so ever..

i was just wondering if anyone has had a coil do this to them cuz when ever ive ran into a bad coil it just diditn work period

si0385.

ttt

miahmouse

sounds like a bad ground or relay... I've had intermittent issues with coils where they were slightly out of spec. Take a multimeter and test the coil...

edit... coil/ignitor testing...
In order to reach the Igniter Unit, you should remove the Distributor Cap and Leak Cover, which is a plastic thing just under the Rotor (it might help if you remove the rotor as well). Ignition Coil is on top of the distributor (you'll only see it if you remove the Distributor Cap) and the Igniter Unit is a match-box like unit, just under the rotor. You can see it once you take the Leak Cover off. Now you should see 4 wires connected to the igniter: WHT, BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU and BLU.

Now here is how to diagnose problems with the Igniter Unit:
Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and the body ground with the ignition switch on. There should be battery voltage. If there is no voltate, check for an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the igniter unit and the ignition switch.
Next, check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and the body ground with the ignition switch on. There should be battery voltage. If there is no voltage, check for: faulty ignition coil or an open in the WHT/BLU wire between the igniter unit and the ignition coil.
Next, check for continuity between the WHT wire and the body ground. There should be continuity. If there is no continuity, check for: and open in the WHT wire between the igniter unit and the ECU or poor ground.
Next, check for continuity between the BLU wire and the body ground. There should be continuity. If there is no continuity, check for: and open in the BLU wire between the igniter unit and the tachometer (or the A/T control unit) or poor ground.
And if all continuity and voltage tests are normal (with a known good 50A fuse), but the engine won't start - replace the igniter unit.

Here is how to diagnose problems with the Ignition Coil:
There is a BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires connected to the coil. Call the terminal to which the BLK/YEL is connected terminal A and the other one terminal B. The circular thing on the side of a coil is a secondary winding terminal. Switch ignition to OFF. Remove the screws and disconnect the wires from terminals A and B. Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between the terminals. Replace the coil if the resistance is not within these specifications: between the A and B terminals - 0.63-0.77 ohms, and between terminal A and secondary winding terminal - 9,760-14,640 ohms.




Modified by miahmouse at 11:29 AM 11/9/2006