ribal_gh

Hi Guys,

My brake pedal feel spongy and the brake response sux.

After reading several articles, i found out that there is brake line bleeding and master cylinder bleeding. is that ture?

Will bleeding the brake lines fix my brake issue and what is a master cylinder bleeding?

jbpnoman

If you haven't removed the master cylinder, you don't need to worry about bench bleeding it. What you've heard about is called bench bleeding, which is only necessary when the master cylinder has been dry.

Have you tried bleeding your brakes yet? If you did, in what order did you bleed them? Have you checked your pads for wear? When did you last flush and replace your brake fluid?

ribal_gh

ok here what happened.

I went to the dealer ship to bleed my brakes but they said they cant do it coz maybe its hasnt been bleeded since it came out of the company (civis si 00) so they said all i can do is suck as much oil from the master cylinder and fill new oil.

I did that, and all i took was about 150 ml, dunno it if is a bad idea to empty the master cylinder reservoir.

I have recently repalced my brake pads and rotors but no improvment.

I own the car since a year and a half and never bleed the brakes.

I was planning to bleed it this week end (RR,FL,RL,FR) as per honda recomdation.

Looking for an air pressure bleed since it is considered the most safe method to avoid any damage in the master cylinder seals which might occur during manual bleeding.

hope that will fix the problem.

jbpnoman

First off, that dealership has no clue what they're doing. Don't go back there.

Second off, buy a few bottles of OEM brake fluid and bleed the hell out of your system. Keep refilling the master cylinder reservoir, never letting it get dry, and keep bleeding the system until clean, fresh fluid starts coming out.

If your brakes still don't feel good after that, then look at a reverse pressure bleed. You need to flush the system desperately, if it's still on original fluid.

ribal_gh

One more thing, when pumping the brake pedal for about 4 times and keep the pressure till the bleed screw is opened, the pedal will sink all the way down.

Is that okay ? or shall i put sth under the pedal to avoid it reaching the floor?

jbpnoman

It's fine, assuming it only goes down after the bleeder nipple is opened.

MadVladCivic

It is possible that allowing the brake pedal to travel all the way to
the floor will lead to seal damage in the master cylinder, thus
necessitating replacement in the not-too-distant future. You can
place a small block of wood or a book to prevent complete travel.

If you have ample time to spend on the project, you can do a
gravity bleed. Simply open the bleeder screw and allow it to drip,
drip, drip, drip, drip.......into a container. Tap on the caliper or
wheel cylinder w/ a dead blow hammer in order to facilitate the
exit of any clinging air bubbles. Make sure the MC never runs dry.
You can do a thorough "flush" w/ a 32oz can of brake fluid.

I highly rec the MityVac vacuum bleeder. I have the 8500. The lowest
price I found was at Tooltopia.
http://www.lincolnindustrial.com/asp.../MV8500_01.htm

ribal_gh

Bleeding done and the pedal feel a lot better.

I faced a problem in the rear left bleeding screw, it was very difficult to open and have slightly damaged the screw so i just passed that side coz i didnt have another tool to use.

I want to know if the oil circulates across all lines?
Can I later on bleed only the RL side or it makes no sense since the oil is already mixed with the new oil?

finally, there is no brake interferance in first 1 inch in the pedal. is that normal?

ribal_gh

Anybody got an idea?

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

probably just normal play in the pedal..

If it still feels spongy, re- bleed in this order:
Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front.

jbpnoman

Unfortunately, he can't bleed LR. At least, not without soaking it in PB blaster or WD40 and being very careful with it.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

ahhh... gotcha