Kesall

I’d been having a problem for about a month where my car would stall in the morning the first time I came to a full stop, and not start again until 5-10 minutes later. I took it to a mechanic who replaced the distributor and adjusted the timing belt.

Now, less than a week later, my car is doing EXACTLY what I took it to the shop for. I called the mechanic, who says “Well, it must be something minor now.”

I want to go back in there with a better idea of what the cause might be.

Possiby pertinent information:

-It's a 95 Civic EX with about 124,000 miles. I've had it since it was new, and this is the first real problem I've had with it.

-I'm suspicious of the fuel filter because when I got my oil changed in March, I was also billed for a fuel filter replacement, which I didn't ask for. Unfortunately, I didn't notice until I was paying my credit card bill. The oil change place, of course, insists that I did request the fuel filter, and that it WAS changed. I decided to let it go, figuring I was about due for a new one anyhow. I told my current mechanic, and he said he'd check it out, and that he should be able to tell by looking at it whether it was new or not. Maybe I should bring it up again.

-New battery in March.

-Oxygen sensor and spark plugs were replaced in December.

-Timing belt and water pump replaced a year and a half ago.

-The ABS has been being flakey (dashboard light on most of the time), starting about the same time that the stalling problem began. Don't know if there's a connection to the stalling problem, didn't request repair. But when I first got the car back from the shop, the ABS dashboard light was off, and the ABS was working way TOO well, kicking in occasionally when I just tap the brake pedal. Since then, the light has come back on intermittently, and the ABS has been very hair-trigger.

I really appreciate any light you guys can shed on this. Thanks so much!
Kristen

crx_88_si

when this happens.. when you go to re-start the car listen for a click.

key off, then key on, the check engine light should come on and go off when you hear the click. if not, then replace the main relay.

Kesall

Thanks for the quick response. Makes me want to run right out and try to stall my car! I was not detailed enough when I said that it won't start. After it stalls, if I key off, key on, the engine will turn over, but will not "catch". When it does this, all the dashboard lights come on, as they do briefly during normal ignition. Does this affect the main relay diagnosis at all? I will pay attention for the click next time it happens (probably tomorrow morning).

I did a search on "main relay" and the problems it causes sound similar to mine but not identical. My car is sometimes also reluctant to start on hot afternoons, which would seem more in keeping with the main relay going bad. In those instances, the engine will catch if I just pump the gas pedal a bit. (That doesn't work with the morning stall).

Thanks again for the advice. I will follow up with the mechanic.

Kristen

whoobeedoobee

relay is likely the problem. Just replaced mine after experiencing similar symptoms. Cost $65 from dealer. Easy install.

Kesall

I took the car back to the mechanic last week. He did not think that the fuel pump relay was a possibility. He said it was a problem with earlier models, but not by '95. He thinks it is a problem with the computer setting for idling -- the idle is extremely rough when I start in the morning (very low rpm). He suggested installing a new temperature guage, but didn't seem optomistic. He said that the computer registers no codes for any problems at all.

The symptoms, from what I've read are similar to the classic symptoms of a bad main relay, but aren't quite a match. My car is most likely to stall when the engine and interior are cold, not hot (although I have had some rough starts on very hot afternoons as well).

My car stalled this morning -- it started, I let it warm up for about 10 minutes (as I always do these days). I noticed when I got in that the rpm was even lower than usual (below 100), but decided to try leaving anyhow. Car stalled as I backed out of my parking space. Engine turned over -- I don't think I could hear a click, but the engine was making enough noise I could have missed it. I had to wait 20 minutes before the engine would catch. I let it warm up again, and it's been OK the rest of the day.

It was cool last night -- in the 40s -- is it still a candidate for relay replacement?

Also, I'm about ready to try replacing the main relay myself, even if the mechanic says that's not it (since he couldn't find the problem, I don't have that much faith in him). It doesn't look too difficult from the links I found on this board. Is there anything I should be careful of?

Edited to add: I just found some posts vaguely referring to the EACV (electronic air control valve?) monitoring idling depending on temperature. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks for your help.
Kristen


Modified by Kesall at 11:48 AM 8/6/2004