Former User

The ECU must match the transmission (manual versus auto) as well.

Girth

I found that info, A0 vs A5.... I have a manual so it seems I need the 0 vs the 5, but I havent seen anything concerning much on the specific "version". A00/A01/A02 etc... Im guessing it has to do with slight tuning changes.

Former User

Just search for an OBD1 P28 ECU for a manual transmission on eBay or other places like the H-T Marketplace.

Here's a search I just did:

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/p28-ecu-manual

Girth

Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Girth

Still working on it, but a little update. P28 ECU should be here Tuesday. Still working at it, a few more sensors to test/replace.

Plug wires were mismatched, so it got a new set of plugs and wires today. Old plugs were ZFR5J-11s and had a gap well over .050. Put in a new set of ZFR6J-11s gapped to .044ish. Timing was WAY off. Turned it over by hand to check its "mechanical timing" was correct (belt seems a little loose), then put the timing light to it. Timing marks were over an inch from the sight on the cover, offset towards the firewall. Got that adjust back about where it should be.

Notice the PCV hose was collapsed too, would totally collapse when it was running, so that got replaced.

When I turned the key on, the only light I had on the instrument cluster was the Batt. light. Gauge backlighting works though. Pulled the cluster and all the bulbs were there, but I moved a couple around. Now the check engine light comes on when key is on, and goes out as it should. When I shunt the connecter by the kick panel though, all I get is a solid check engine light. Have to see whats up with that now.... Still, all I get now is the Batt. light and check engine light.

Its in progress. Runs better, but still rich at idle.

Girth

OK. New ECU showed up tonight. Its a P28-A02 out of a 94 Si if the paint marker and ebay seller is to be believed. Swapped it in, and low and behold, I now have a check engine light, that I didn't have with the P06. Shunted the service connector and I get a Code 1 and Code 11.

Code 1, looks like its the O2 sensor. Figured, since I couldn't get it to read in the range specified in the Haynes manual.

Code 11..... What could cause that? I installed the ECU, started the car, let it run for a minute at most and shut it off. Then checked the codes. Car was warm from running earlier, but not up to temp yet.

Codes read as one long flash, followed by a one long and one short flash. Hopefully Im reading those right. I did open up the ECU before installing it, and it doesn't appear to be chipped.

Former User

Code 21 is probably thrown. Post a video.

Girth

Well that makes more sense now that I think about it. I must be half retarded tonight....too much time staring at a multimeter. Just double checked it, yep, single long flash, a pause, then two long and one short flash. So code 1 and 21.

I don't have the slightest idea on how to post a video, sorry Im not help there. This is about as tech savvy as I get, posting on forums.

Thanks for the help Ron. Your links in your signature were very helpful too. Cleaned the IACV and FITV while I was under the hood this weekend. Been browsing through the FAQs too, and found some more useful info. Looks like I get to diagnose the VTEC solenoid too, though I'm guessing that has little to do with me failing an emissions test. One more thing on the list.....

Off to buy an O2 and IAT sensor now, since both failed the tests I found in the Haynes manual.

Former User

How many wires does the O2 sensor plug have?

Girth

Four. On both the harness and sensor.

Harness side is White, Green/white, Orange/black, and Yellow/black. Sensor is White, Light Green, and two Black.

Girth

Well, thanks for the help Ron. It passed emissions tonight.

Now to sort through its other issues, but first I'll be tossing in a new CV shaft and welding on a new muffler.