Nave43

I have a multimeter, i noted that in the first post.

It decided to snow here again, so i have been puttin' if off RonJ's test till it thaws... again. Have you ever tried to find a bolt in the snow? It sucks...

:edit:

Decided to do the multimeter tests they were quick,

Batt Neg to starter body 1.7 Ohms

Voltage from positive battery to starter solenoid 12.8V

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

When checking the solenoid 12v input you go from ground to the solenoid wire.


Redo the test.

If you check resistance at the solenoid cable to the starter body you will see maybe 30 ohms resistance.

Batt neg on one lead and the other to the starter solenoid cable. Unplug it from the solenoid and have some one turn the key to the cranking.

Compare that voltage to the straight batt voltage

Nave43

Absolutely nothing happens, unless i somehow performed the test wrong. Should i disconnect the wire in the fuse box before i attempt the test? I tried with (T1) installed and starter cable disconnected.


I could only get a res rating from the starter body to solenoid cable of about 1.4k Ohms, Its very hard to get a reading from the starter body at all due to paint, and dirt.


(Batt Volt this morning was about 12.6V)
Batt Neg to selenoid wire is 11.78V while cranking so about a 1V drop. This tells me my ignition and clutch safety switch are fine. Correct?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Ron forgot to tell you to turn the ignition when using the jumper.

He wants you to rule out the cable going to the starter motor from the under hood fuse box. This is a lot easier testing the continuity between the two instead.

Anyway. Have you replaced the starter already? I cant remember. if not your starter is probably going bad. That 1v drop shouldnt be a problem.



BUT!!!!
Do this first check the resistance from the starter solenoid wire back the key switch.



Check resistance back from the starter solenoid wire to the key switch.

The key switch has a wire coming straight from the fuse box and should have the same batt voltage.

Check that wire on the key switch and the wire going to your solenoid.

I cant remember the wire colors right now.

What i think is happening is the voltage is fine but you have a lot of resistance inside the switch. Not enough amps are getting to your solenoid.

Nave43

I shall repeat RonJ's test tomorrow, the right way. Biggest thing is unless my GF is home i have no-one to crank the car for me

No i have not yet replaced the starter, i almost did but i am glad i didn't.
For your resistance test, can you give me a # for the fuse-box diagram? Its hard to decipher through text, and too specific to search. Also this is a non-cranking test, correct?


A few to-do items that may help:

All new 4G ground wires and connectors.

New battery to fuse-box power wire and connector.

Rebuild starter with new contacts and plunger.

Eventually replace battery to starter connection. (Need 4g-2g wire and special connection for starter)

Is it important to get copper ends for the wires? Or can i use the silver ended ones. (Not sure what they are made of) I cant seem to find anyone locally who sells copper ends for 4G wire.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Yeah i know its confusing

Basically what im saying is ohm out ur ignition switch. Im not saying to replace it

Former User

This^

You must turn the key to ON(III) to activate the solenoid.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Updates?

Nave43

Sorry for the delay, trying for tomorrow. Problem is i cant get it to act up now, it has only failed to start once since i last posted. Making troubleshooting impossible...

Problems dont just "go away" so tomorrow i will have help and try and see what i can do. I am happy its working but the mystery is how/why...

Nave43

I completed RonJ's test 5x. The car started every time, though as i said its been starting rather reliably lately. After i was done i hooked everything back up and it failed to start 3x in a row. Then it was fine again...


I ordered 5Ft of OFC 4g cable, and some copper wire buts. Im going to replace my positive to starter/fusebox, and all grounds. Even if it doesn't "help" its not hurting anything.

Im sorry i cant figure out how to do the test your trying to explain to me.... Im trying to find a diagram to show me what wire i need to test.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Voltage goes in the ignition switch and goes out to your starter solenoid cable

I want you to ohm out that path

This is easier
Disconnect the positive batt cable
With a multi meter check resistance from the battery positive cable to the starter solenoid cable on the starter.

Have someone turn the key and record the resistance

Former User

Intermittent problems are definitely the trickiest.

tony_2018

We're trying to be a tech forum, however there are idiots that pop up every once in a while that would give us a hard time. For the most part we're trying to be technical about it alright so chill dude.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Pls go

Nave43

Problem seems to be solved! I didn't want to jump the gun like last time so i waited a few days. Its been hot, cold, rainy and the car still starts first time every time. Quicker than before as-well.

The Fix:
I replaced the G3 ground, Batt + to fuse box, Neg battery ground, and starter power wire with new 4G OFC wire. Also replaced the P/S ground with 6G wire and added a new 6g ground to the V/C.

Im going to write a DIY on the process!

New wiring


Added Ground

Former User

Thanks for the update.

Dekorum

Ditto.

Please check back in if the problem comes back. I find it strange that replacing ground and power wires would fix the issue unless there was visible damage/corrosion in one of the wires.

I will certainly try this though; it should be cheap enough to do anyway. Where do you recommend getting the wires/connectors? OEM is about $18 for the battery.negative-ground one and $44 for the double lead battery.positive one.