NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

A B16A2 shouldn't have an FITV. Spark plug wires. The four wires that go from the distributor to the spark plugs. Those are your spark plug wires. Fuel filter is easy. See your fuel rail? See that hose coming off of your fuel rail? See that black cylindrical looking thingy that hose goes into? That's your fuel filter.

qharr1

I appreciate your help, you guys have helped me alot. But im not stupid, i just want to be 100% sure of what you guys are talking about when you use short terminology.

Thanks, ill give the fuel filter a go, and the "wires" will have to wait until next weekend, if im going to be replacing them i want to at least put something decent in lieu.

Thanks again

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

For wires, ONLY use OEM or OEM equivalent (NGK, Sumitomo). For plugs, only use NGK. Plugs are cheap, $2 at your local parts store. Wires, you can get at your local dealership for $60-$80, or from a number of online dealers for <$50 (if you don't mind waiting for shipping). Yes, they're more expensive than their parts store competitors, but they last a LOT longer, and they are a LOT more reliable. Spend the money, do it right the first time.

qharr1

I'm in Australia bro, everything is double the money and double the waiting time haha.

Unless someone knows of an Australian based aftermarket site? But thanks for the info, think i'll stick to NGK since the plugs are now NGK.

marcelosm

I don't think that the problem here is the valve cover gaskets. When the electrode is covered in oil like that it is more likely to be caused by either bad valve stem seals in the cylinder head or the piston rings in the block. Those are the only two places where oil can get into the combustion chamber.

qharr1

Yes that would make sense, but the car doesn't blow any smoke at all and in side #3 lead cylinder was full of oil. so therefore the plug was covered in oil after i pulled it out. all four plugs that i pulled out had burnt oil on them ( where they plug into the lead )

its gotta be something else. yes the gasket might not be cause my problem, but its still something that needs attention

qharr1

High all, recently i have been trying to figure out why i have hesitation and jerking at 1700rpm... and have fiddled with the TPS and set that back to OEM.

New plugs, and cleaned out the throttle body...
I re-sealed the rocket cover gasket, because oil was getting into the spark plug cylinder.... also bled the coolant system...
Cleaned out the IACV today as that was stuck and showed up on the workshops scan tool as a failure... the IACV is now unstuck.. but not sure if its working..

NOW i have a new problem... im not sure if i conducted all this is the right steps but now the car is idling at 1500 rpm.. and wont decrease whether it is cold or warm.. i know not to touch the idle screw and thats still set to OEM.. the only thing that i have touched that has anything to do with the accelerator, is the cable adjuster...

but that is not the cause! the cable has plenty of slack in it and cannot be causing the throttle the stay on..

------------------------

would readjusting the TPS, result in the revs coming down?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Critical information. This could go multiple directions depending on a few factors. Give us basic, pertinent information.

qharr1

Honda Crx Del Sol 1993, Vtec 1.6l B16a2 OBD2 CEL light not on bcoz taken out by previous owner... (found out today) Everything stock inside engine bay. Hopefully this helps to anyone that might have some useful information..

@NotARacist thanks for the heads up

TomCat39

Hi gharr1, being you just fiddled with the IACV which was stuck, and now it idles wrong. I would be looking to try a different IACV before you start fiddling with other things. If you meddle with more than one system at a time it makes it even more difficult to isolate what went side ways. Currently, it sounds like you fiddled with one thing and then the idle went wonky. I'd stay focused on that one thing until you know it's not the culprit (swap with a different one).

Just my thoughts on it.

Former User

Install bulb and pull codes. Afterwards, reset ECU and run engine until CEL stays on steady. Pull codes again. Post codes that repeat.

qharr1

Okay sounds good.. might be a stupid question, but reset the ecu? disconnect the battery?

thanks for the feed back.

HondaPartsHero

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-pull-cel-d4-srs-abs-codes-code-lists-1901557/

qharr1

okay just a recap..

I still have not solved this mysterious problem with my crx.. hesitation and jerking at 1700rpm...

I don't have a vacuum leak, it holds a steady 20 in-Hg (inches of mercury). Leads and plugs have been replaced.. TPS re-calibrated, throttle body cleaned + IACV, FACV tightened. I've checked for a leak around the manifold. nothing. also bled the coolant system..


but still nothing... but i know i haven't tried everything. next thing ill be doing is throwing a dose of spitfire down its throat with a new fuel filter..

keep it updated..

marcelosm

Still no codes op?

qharr1

only IACV, but a few mechanics have even said that that is not the cause of my problem.. but they also cant tell me what is..

hmm

HondaPartsHero

Fix the check engine light

uboostivtec

Have you tried different ecu? Different dizzy?

uboostivtec

Maybe the adjuster on the throttle body where the cable hooks got fucked with ??

uboostivtec

Also if code is showing up it's prolly for a reason

uboostivtec

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...500&styleid=14 maybe some of these things could help you?

qharr1

thanks for the feed back mate, i have tried all of these things.. i think it might be time to order in a new fuel filter and IACV.. just to be safe. then we will see how things go..

thanks for your help

qharr1

-------------------------------------------------
Symptoms

If your experiancing any of the following, one of the likely culprits is your Spedometer Sensor.

Odometer is non functional
Speed on odometer is grossly inaccurate
Rev limiter is no longer functional
Hesitation
Surging
Bucking
Hardshifts
Loss of gas milage
SES (Service Engine Soon) light illuminated
Missing
Pinging
----------------------------------------------------------

just pulled this little bit of info off the net.. doesnt seem legit but if so i know my speed sensor it F!@K#d and lucky i have one ordered in.

romerosi

if it has an iac code then its def the iac valve. it will idle all over the place, high, and stumble

qharr1

Del sol, 1.6l. Hesistation at 1700, trying to rev past that is like pushing through a brick wall, when it decides it wants to rev past that , it will shoot up to 3000-4000 rpm... Then trying to keep steady idle at any rev over 1700, proves almost impossible, when you do manage to get the revs to settle down around these rev ranges. It then feels as if the car is getting to much fuel or not enough. ( spluttering and carrying on )..

Another thing. Attempted replacing my speed sensor today. The new part i received feels like its not lubriacted inside.. Is this the way it's suppose to be? Because when I plugged it all in and bolted it on, i had no readings on my speedometer. Chucked the old one back in ,and I get readings but false readings.. Checked voltage going to the sensor, reading roughly 12v. The old part had really old greasy **** inside the sensor.

Will post video of the tacho so that you guys can see whet the car is doing..


Just for those of you wanting to know more details.. The car is 93 del sol, 1.6l b16a2 obd1 no mods.