SHOOT DEERE IT

New member. Have learned a lot from this site and never had to ask a question, could just search the forum and find my answer.

I have a 1992 Honda Civic LX 1.5L 16 valve. It sat for a few days then wouldn't start. Brought it in the shop and checked for spark. No spark. Took the cap off and it had a bunch off oil in it and the points were very corroded. Easy fix, bought a new complete distributor. Still no spark. Then I realize the fuel pump isn't priming when turn the key to on, CEL is staying on, and the main relay isn't clicking. Jump 5 and 7 in the main relay harness and fuel pump runs. Checked and cleaned ground on thermostat housing. After doing some reading I figured it was the main relay. Bought a new one, same thing. So I checked the 3 main fuses again with a test light(just did a visual check the first time) and I have no power at fuse 18. Thoughts??

Does it sound like a bad ecm, wiring problem, or is there something else I should check? TIA

Former User

Voltage only reaches fuse 18 with the key held in ON(III). Is that how you did the test?

Have you voltage tested fuses 31 and 24?

SHOOT DEERE IT

Not sure what you mean by ON lll. Checked it with key all the way forward and also with key turned to start and no power.

Fuse 24 is good. Is 31 under the hood? Not sure exactly which one it is bit checked everything under the hood with a test light and all is good.

Former User

Test the ignition switch - see FAQs sticky.

SHOOT DEERE IT

Tested the ignition switch. The only thing I found is that the 2 smaller blue and white wires that should have continuity with the key in don't but have it with the key out. Backward of the way it should be. Those 2 wires run up to a small switch type thing on the over side from the rest of the wires where you put the key in. What is that little switch for and could it be causing my problems??

Former User

Check whether the rubber stopper that presses on the starter switch at the top of the clutch pedal fell out.

SHOOT DEERE IT

It is still in there and appears to be working like it should

Former User

If you unplug the switch at the top of the clutch pedal and short the switch connector, does voltage now reach fuse 18 with the key in ON(III)?

SHOOT DEERE IT

I will start there tomorrow. Thanks for the help. What is the story with the little switch those two smaller blue/white wires run to?

Former User

Unrelated - it just activates the key-in reminder beep from the integrated control unit.

Also test whether the two terminals of the starter switch connector on the pedal has battery voltage with the key in ON(III) and also has good ground.

SHOOT DEERE IT

So in that case my ignition switch is ok?

Also which fuse exactly is 31? 31 and 24 should be seeing battery voltage I'm guessing?

Former User

Yes, if you did the ignition switch tests correctly.

You'll find fuse box diagrams in the FAQs sticky.

Fuse 31 should have constant voltage and fuse 24 should have voltage with the key in ON(II). But neither of these fuses is related to fuse 18.

SHOOT DEERE IT

I tested the switch on the pedal. Unplugged and crossed and tried and no power to 18.

Also test whether the two terminals of the starter switch connector on the pedal has battery voltage with the key in ON(III) and also has good ground.[/QUOTE]

Where exactly are these? Is that the top switch I just shorted?

SHOOT DEERE IT

If that switch was bad, would the car turn over? When I press the pedal down it starts like it should and after I crossed the plug it would turn over without touching the clutch which it should.

Former User

Are you saying that engine has always cranked, started, and run?

SHOOT DEERE IT

What I meant by start was cranked over. Bad wording. Have never got it to run since this happened. But it has always cranked over like it should when the clutch is pushed in just never started. Have no spark but have power on the black/yellow wire going to distributor and fuel pump will not prime.

But I guess until I have power to fuse 18 I need to start there correct?

Former User

The starter would NOT crank the engine if fuse 18 lacked voltage. How are you testing voltage at the fuse?

SHOOT DEERE IT

Here is what I found. With that switch crossed and the key to ON(lll) I DO have voltage at fuse 18. With the plug reinstalled in the switch, I only have voltage at 18 when the clutch is pressed AND the car is turning over.

Am I supposed to test ON (lll) with clutch pushed in?

Former User

Yes

SHOOT DEERE IT

Sorry for the confusion. I didn't know. So the fuse issue seems to be fine. So now where do I start. Fuel pump doesn't prime but runs when I cross 5 and 7 like it should. CEL stays on when key is turned on and doesn't go out after 2 seconds.


What's my next step?

ECM? How do you test or can you take it in to have it tested?

Something else?

Former User

Does the pump run when you jump 1 to 7 in the main relay plug?

If you unplug ECU connector A and turn the key to ON(II), does the pump run when connector pin A7 or A8 is grounded?

SHOOT DEERE IT

Yes, jumping 1 and 7 will run the pump.

Yes, when grounded A7 and A8 will run the pump.

Former User

Unplug ECU connectors A and B.

Key in ON(II) - Is there battery voltage at connector pins A25 and B1?

Key OFF - is there continuity to body ground at connector pins A26 and B2?

SHOOT DEERE IT

Yes and yes

Former User

Source a replacement ECU or borrow a friend's for test purposes.