This should kinda cover how I take care of wheel bearing, lower ball joints, and wheel studs. It is kinda long though. Just look through it good first there may be some typos.
Removing the Spindle Assemblies
1.Raise the front wheels on the car and place on jack stands. Remove wheels and pull out the center cap cover.
2.Use a cold chisel to un-stake the axel nut from the axel spindle.
3.Replace wheels (sans center caps) and lower the car to the ground. Place the car in a drive gear and apply the E brake during braking the axel nuts loose. You could also have a friend apply the brake pedal if you have help.
4.Use a 32 mm 6 point socket and a breaker bar to break the axel nuts loose. A breaker bar extension may be needed to increase the mechanical leverage; a 3-foot or longer length of pipe works well. An air impact gun may also be used with sufficient torque capability and air pressure.
5.Raise the front of the car again and place on jack stands. Remove the wheels.
6.Remove the axel nuts completely from the axel and spray the spline areas with PB Blaster or WD-40.
7.Unbolt the brake line bracket from the steering knuckle. (10mm bolt heads)
8.Remove the cotter pins from the upper ball joint, the lower ball joint, and the tie rod end. Be prepared for months/years or corrosion and dirt. Some PB Blaster or WD-40 soaked around the cotter pins will help. You may even have to drive the pins out with a small punch.
9.Break loose the upper ball joint nut, the lower ball joint nut, and the tie rod end nut. (17mm nuts)
10.Loosen the upper ball joint, the lower ball joint, and the tie rod end nuts. Start off by unthreading the nuts until they are just about off the ball joint stud. Leaving the nuts on there while breaking the joints helps to keep the heavy spindle on the car and off you foot.
Method 1: Use a ball joint separator (AKA: pickle fork) by inserting the fork between the ball joint and control arm. Hit the fork with a hammer to wedge the ball joint apart. This method usually damages the rubber ball joint boot; just keep that in mind.
Method 2: Take the ball joint nuts off completely and put them back for a few threads. Hit the nut a few times with a heavy hammer. Just make sure to reverse the nut so the castle side does not get hit with the hammer. This method takes awhile but does work in a pinch, especially if the ball joints have been broken loose shortly before.
Method 3: Use a ball joint separator that can be found at any auto parts store. There are many styles but these are usually much more kind to the rubber boot than Method 1 and easier than Method 2.
11.Break loose the front brake calipers and use some bale wire or zip ties to hold then out of the way. Avoid letting them hang by the brake lines. Remove the brake pads and caliper brackets from the spindle assembly.
12.Break loose the lower strut fork bolts (17mm and 14mm bolts) and remove from the car. You can leave the struts in place if you wish.
13.Remove the ball joint nuts (17mm nuts) and pull the ball joints out of place.
14.Use a hammer to help the axel spline out of the wheel hubs. Use a brass hammer, plastic hammer, wood block, etc to avoid damaging axel end.
15.Pull entire assembly away from the car carefully. Clean and inspect the parts before moving to the next step. Clean off any grease, dirt, and grime that will get in the way of the repair work. Look for any signs of cracks or bent spindles.
Stripping down the spindle/hub assemblies
1.Break loose the brake rotor screws with an impact screwdriver if necessary. Remove the brake rotors form the assembly.
2.Remove the axel dust rings on the inboard side of the wheel bearings. A screwdriver will pry them out just fine. Save rings for later.
3.Remove the dust shield screws with a screwdriver and pair of Vice-Grips. Stick the screwdriver through the rotor screw holes in the wheel hub and work it into the shield screw. At the same time clamp the Vice-Grip around the screw head and turn both screwdriver and Vice-Grip to break the screws loose.
4.The dust shield can be removed by cutting the thin strip section away from the main part of the shield. This way the shield can be removed or installed without the hub having to be pressed out every time. You could opt to leave the shield out but in the event of a CV joint exploding its grease all over…you may loose braking ability. Just plan to put the shield back on.
5.Set up the spindle in a mechanical press with the wheel hub facing down. The brake caliper points and spindle body can be used for base points. Use a press tool to push the hub out of the wheel bearing. The direction should be from inboard to outboard. The hub will obviously not come out the opposite way. Part of the wheel bearing will usually come out with the wheel hub. This will be removed later.
6.Remove the spindle assembly from the machine press and spray the retainer ring (located on the outboard side of the wheel bearing, under the wheel hub) with PB Blaster or WD-40. Remove this retainer ring from the spindle and save for later.
7.Set up the spindle in a mechanical press in the same direction as earlier. The brake caliper points and spindle body can be used for base points. Use a press tool to push the wheel bearing out of the spindle. The direction should be from inboard to outboard. The bearing will obviously not come out the opposite way. With the retainer ring removed the wheel bearing can be pressed out easily.
8.Remove the spindle assembly from the press.
9.Use a bearing separator on the wheel hub to remove the remaining bearing race. The splitter is tightened under the race and the hub can be removed by using the mechanical press.
10.The wheel studs can also be pressed out from the wheel hub. You can use the mechanical press or a few good hammer blows should take care of them.
11.Clamp the spindle assembly to the press structure and rest on the brake caliper mounts.
12.Remove the rubber dust boots from the lower ball joints.
13.Find a tool or an impact socket to fit over the ball joint stud.
14.Hit this tool with a 3-5 pound min-sledge until the lower ball joint is knocked out of the spindle.
Well it is apart by now installation is the reverse of removal.
**dang that is long
[Modified by SLPR, 8:09 AM 10/15/2002]