slowhatchcali

Hello HT, I recently swapped in a B18B1 into my 98 Civic Ex.

P1457 pops up on the scanner.

1998 B18B1
2000 Si transmission
98 Obd2a P75

I know what the code is, but I am not quite sure as to how to go about diagnosing the culprit, the farthest I have gone is switching the EVAP canister with a known working one, to no avail.

My question(s):

A. Does the P75 look for a different type of EVAP canister than what the civic has? (I used the stock canister from the car, and replaced it with another one from another 98 EX)

B. Upon research, I found on another forum that a guy with an Integra had that problem and he ended up changing a sensor near or on his gas tank, can't exactly recall where, and it solved his issue. Does my civic have said sensor on or near the gas tank?

C. I read there is a TSB for integras for one of the EVAP solenoids getting corroded inside and some going to the point of shorting themselves out inside and damaging the ECU. If that were the case, per say, and my ecu was damaged, would the light come right back on after resetting it? Or would it take about a day or two come back like it does in my car?

Things I have done so far: replaced canister, and replaced gas filler cap.

Thank you in advance!

slowhatchcali

Bump!

I have to take my car in to the referee station to get my swap legalized guys!

EJ8_Man

Hey I just dealt with this myself. First off did the original engine have any EVAP issues? If not then good. It's most likely your routing, or a vacuum leak you introduced during the swap. Did you use ALL the EVAP components from your original motor? You need to.

Since both motors are USDM and both are 1998 OBD2A motors the EVAP systems will be virtually identical. So assuming your routing is correct, and no vacuum leaks exist, you should be good to go.

Start by downloading manuals for both cars. Google search for honda manuals and see where that takes you. Next compare the vacuum diagrams for both vehicles. Using the Civic EVAP system route the vacuum lines identically to the B18B1 1998 configuration.

Here's my thread with my issue:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/smog-issues-evap-o2-monitors-incomplete-p0172-cel-3176836/
Note the image in my post is showing incorrect routing. I will re-post shortly with the correct routing.

If you can't get the manuals PM me I'll hook you up.

EJ8_Man

This is what you need to do:

slowhatchcali

EJ8 Man:

I just looked at your thread and your sensor is a bit different than what the LS uses, but its still the same concept. And my vacuum routing is the same way yours is set up.

To answer your questions:

The original engine(or lack there of) was an OBD1 D15 so it had a CEL for knock sensor and also for the rear o2 sensor when I first got it. That was it. At the time of swap however I did not re-scan the car because I figured I would solve those issues with the swap.

Yes I used all the EVAP components from the car, except for the manifold-mounted solenoid, but in theory it should be same and replace the fuel rail solenoid from the D16Y8.

After fixing it, how long should the EVAP monitor give the OK? Yesterday I replaced the canister and the EVAP monitor still hasn't completed. NOTE: I'm using a scanner for the iPhone called "i-OBD2".

I have the manual for the civic, but not Integra. I will be PM'ing you.

slowhatchcali

That is exactly how I have the EVAP lines routed.

EJ8_Man

If your routing is correct then there may be a vacuum leak. Harbor Freight Tools sells a $25 vacuum tester kit which you will need to perform diagnostics. It could also be a bad solenoid since you have no knowledge of the systems status prior to the OBD1 swap. Or it could be a bad ECU, but unlikely. Follow the manual's EVAP diagnostics for the Civic.

The EVAP monitor is a mysterious beast, which if you look up the actual setting procedure you will see a very long list of steps that are ridiculous. Do this twice:
From a cold start take the car out on the freeway and cruise at 55 mph for 10 miles on the freeway of your choice.
The following day repeat this process. This should set your EVAP monitor. Emphasis on "should". I've talked to smog refs that gave reference to personal experience where a car's EVAP monitor didn't enter OK status until 2000 miles had been traversed.

As for your phone's OBD2 reader, if it works then use it.

Feel free to PM me

Edit: Your issue could also be the result of bad wiring.

slowhatchcali

I am going to check the wiring on it because I did have to stretch some plugs here and there, one of them being the EVAP plug that goes to the solenoid that sits on top of the Integra manifold.

What should the voltages be at the plug? 12v right? Because if I am not mistaken they are actuated by the ECU with a ground signal, right?

EJ8_Man

The evap purge solenoid should see battery voltage. The manual will tell you the exact diagnostic procedure. In the link I sent you look at page 11-288. Diagnostics start there for this file "Honda Civic EJ6, EJ7, EJ8 (96-00) Service Manual.zip.pdf", which is the one you need for your car.

slowhatchcali

Yeah I found the dianostic procedure on that file. Thank you for time. I will diagnose it on friday and report back with my findings! Hopefully it is only a cracked hose or wiring issue.

slowhatchcali

Also, thank you for your time!!

EJ8_Man

np, good luck

slowhatchcali

UPDATE:

Ok I followed the manual's steps and it boiled down to a bad ecu. I'm currently running my stock P2P ecu for testing purposes, I am monitoring the monitors on the OBD2 scanner and hopefully the evap monitor clears. If it does, the wrecking yard that I purchased the swap from will swap out the ecu for me. I will update the thread as soon as I find out if that's the definitive problems.