SHARKY555

I have a 96 civic cx hatchback the was running fine now having issues. It will start and idle but when u punch the gas it will bog out and if u let of gas pedal before it dies it will catch and idle again. If u slowly push gas pedal down it will not die...? Weird ... Any ideas? I thought it might be lack of fuel so I changed fuel filter it ran fine for a few minutes then started acting up again..

chillerice

Try O2 sensor at the front... I've heard of issues where it is cause by lazy sensor or IACV clog... I have a similar issue before my engine rod knocked 4 months ago,so I'm getting a replacement

B serious

iTrader: (1)

What did you recently do to the car that this started happening?

Try checking for moisture on the inside of the distributor cap or oil in the spark plug holes. Could be corrosion in the distributor or a bad ig igniter as well.

If you unplugged any connectors to do something, check that they went back to the correct sensor.

Any CELs?

SHARKY555

The car was fine the radiator went out a week ago and coolant went everywhere. It over heated a tiny bit which made the sparkplugs pop up out of the valve cover. Replaced radiator and push plug wires back down and it ran fine for a week. Now this problem.. I will check inside of distributor may coolant manage its way in there.

SHARKY555

I replaced o2 censor last year! But I have a cracked exhaust manifold. And its right around the o2 censor.
That wouldn't cause this problem would it?

SHARKY555

Thank you I check distributer no moisture but it had a lot of corrosion in it. I guess the coolant leak in there some how. where's the ig igniter located? I want to check that... is it located under the rotor?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Are you still losing coolant? And the igniter is located under the rotor...screwed to the body of the distributor.

Doc Dre

Hi guys...
My Civic Ferio EK3 1998 is doing the same, it will rev up to around 3000 rpm & then bog out (sometimes die) & the exhaust gas smells heavy over fuelled..... I went thru all the connectors this morning, sprayed them all with some CRC to displace any water damp & dust, even cleaned all the sensors = O2 sensor, ECT, IAT, TPS & the idling screw. If it is the O2 sensor, what readings should I get on the multimeter when testing the sensor & what must I get when testing the connection plug on KOEO or/on KOER ???
4 Wire O2 sensor 2 Black & 1 Green & 1 White
I also have to add the ECU has been without power for a week or 3 over Christmas holiday due to a wire that got a little hot headed....FIXED & then put battery back & then the current problem started. Any ideas on how to teach or relearn the ECU ???
I have the 37820 - PCV - J11 YG ... ECU made by KEIHIN
Also have no flashing codes......

carlos8

I'm working on a 94 ex with similar symptoms and all point to a faulty MAP sensor.

Also after your overheating issue did you perform a compression or leak down test.

chillerice

IIRC My brother washed his engine one day with the car off... I think he wet the dizzy and possibly the plugs got wet... We had alot of bogging and slight loss of power....

We had to change everything from cat,dizzy,plugs and wires.

Doc Dre

Checked whole ignition system from IG igniter, dizzy, wires & plugs. All are in order..... No moisture in the distributor....

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Check your ignition timing. These symptoms are classic timing problem, and how we got four days in with no one mentioning it is rather disappointing.

Doc Dre

Timing is fine.
What must the readings be when testing the Map Sensor on KOEO & KOER ???

Motionek55

hey,

You need to one check spark plugs, pull the plugs and see if they are wet with fuel if they are replace the plugs. If the plugs are fine check fuel delivery make sure the injectors are clogged or anything. It is some what interesting that it will run then when the throttle is pressed it shuts down. All make sure the distributor is working properly, timing could be the issue or the distributor is not igniting properly.

Doc Dre

How can I test or check for clogged injectors without spraying the whole world full of fuel ??? Don't own a test bench...
Any advice with the MAP sensor ???

Doc Dre

If I keep the gas constant on 2000 rpm, it fluctuates, by jumping up & down with a +- 1500 rpm, what can it be ???

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Burp your coolant system, clean your IACV, and check for vacuum leaks.

LaMereImport

Had Similar problems few weeks ago, replaced Throttle Body and car runs fine now

Doc Dre

Burped the coolant system. Cleaned all the sensors on the throttle body & the throttle body itself. Haven't found a vacuum leak as yet but still checking everything over as I go.
Thanx Guys For The Inputs

HondaPartsHero

I'm confused, Dr Dre please start your own thread I can't tell who is answering who at this point.

SHARKY555

No I replaced radiator because it was crack right by the cap. It's fine no leaks. Ty I m going to check igniter.

bigKB123

i Just bought a 96 cx auto. I'm having a similar problem. I don't have a problem with idle or the car shutting off. When the car is cold and I start it up and drive off, It kinda bogs down when it shifts into 2nd gr and I have to pump on the gas so it can catch itself. Just a new dizzy installed , along with a major tune up with new spark plugs wires and a valve job. Its still giving me this problem. Any ideas?

Also the civic is a Canadian model

bigKB123

Also, it only does it when the car is cold. It doesn't do it after a few mins of driving. I have no check engine light or anything.

Doc Dre

My Fault was Found & Solved ......... MAP Sensor & TPS Plugs got switched........ Oooops my BAD...........