shotoutacc0rd

If the car is off, the brake pedal feels great, pumps right up and stays firm.

if the car is running and I'm stopped, the pedal loses its resistance after about a minute. It takes several pumps to get it firm again, if it actually decides to. Its so bad that I can be stopped in drive, with the pedal floored, and the car will start rolling.

fixed the leak by replacing the soft lines with new OEM. Bled the brakes with a vacuum thing, spent about 20 mins pumping the brakes and bleeding afterwards too. Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

car info:
ABS equipped 93 EH9 EX sedan. The ABS light stays on, and the tires can lock up. New pads and rotors in the front, rears are good condition but older.

help?

midorigreenmobi

Just a thought here because I have to do this on my car as well, which is the same as yours.

Have you checked your brake fluid to see if your losing any after replacing your lines?
Check your brake proportional valve on the firewall. Mine has a small leak and needs replacing. To my understanding, its not uncommon for these to spring a small leak. I've only not replaced mine yet because of the expense at the dealership, as its a honda part. I have to check some other places.

shotoutacc0rd

the reservoir is still full after a few days, but there could potentially be another smaller leak that will take more time to make a noticeable loss in the reservoir.
I already looked over all of the hard lines but I think I'm gonna do it again to double check for more leaks.

shotoutacc0rd

What would cause the pedal to lose pressure after a minute and only while the car is running?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Booster, possibly. Car only pulls vacuum while it's running.

shotoutacc0rd

Thats what someone else told me too. I figured I could try making it suck harder by opening the throttle, but flooring both pedals in neutral didnt make a difference.

is the 5th Gen DX booster the same, I own one of those I could try it and see if it fixes the problem. Or maybe Integra LS since they're the same brakes? I can get one of those from a junk yard, but I can't find any 5th gens at all, only 6th gens. I wonder if the 6th Gen are the same too

kab00m

The brake booster assists in less brake pedal effort on your part. I do not believe that is the issue here. This sounds like the brake master cylinder is the culprit here. Also, I think the brake bleeding procedure is RR, LF, LR, RF. You should look into that bleeding procedure to double check me.

shotoutacc0rd

I used a vacuum before I bled them and it didn't seem like there was any air when I did bleed them, I guess doing it wrong could be a problem but I learned to do it furthest -> closest to the MC. I dont like this ABS thing either can I just get rid of this POS? Abs doesn't even work anyway

94EG8

It is, bleeding them the other way you'll never get the air out.

shotoutacc0rd

Even with a vacuum bleeder thing?

tony_2018

Might need to bleed the abs pump.

shotoutacc0rd

I was thinking about using the vacuum to suck all the old fluid out and put in new fluid, follow that bleed method u guys talked about wash the car and be vigilant for leaks.

I'm gonna replace the booster vacuum tube and clean all that intake manifold stuff while I'm at it.

shotoutacc0rd

So, I'm still having this problem. I checked the booster, and its free of problems. I checked every inch of the lines, and they're free of leaks. I bled the brakes according to the FSM, and made sure every drop of the old fluid was out by using blue brake fluid, no more brown nasty fluid, no more clear fluid from last time, all blue.

could the ABS light illuminating be part of this problem? I remember reading that there's a computer diagnostics technique, I'm gonna go thru the FSM's abs section but it seems rather complicated..

does anyone else have any ideas before I spend the money on a M/C? And yes I know bench bleed it first.

shotoutacc0rd

And has anyone simply pulled this ABS crap out of the car? If the ABS has a serious problem thats what I'll probably do. Is there anything I should do besides copy the braking system from my EJ2?

please pay more attention to the second question than the first one

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

No. No one has ever done it.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...20remove%20abs

shotoutacc0rd

Thank you mark, I was sorta just asking if there's some things that might not be obvious that I dont wanna **** up.

have you ever trouble shot this stuff? I should know how to fix brakes but this is pissing me off and I dont wanna rip out the ABS and do all that work if it ain't the problem and I don't wanna buy a new M/C if its still good.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

For one thing you have yet to bleed the brakes properly. You're not troubleshooting this thing correctly. You're just guessing randomly.

shotoutacc0rd

I did bleed em proper, like I said according to the FSM. No air bubbles came out of the brakes, but I wanted to make sure they were completely flushed (why I got the blue fluid) I did em anyway. R.R, L.F, L.R., R.F.

oh that reminds me though, I saw something I never seen before; on the rear brakes, the bleeder bolts were facing down. Is that proper? I thought they were suppose to face upward.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

They are.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

I was going to ask if you had the calipers on the correct sides.

shotoutacc0rd

As far as I know I did everything right but the pedal just wont stop feeling spongy after holding it down and then sink to the floor. I was reading the FSM's anti-lock brake section and I'm gonna get the dumb light to blink to see what the computer says about the brakes.

Markus how do I figure out what part is doing this? Everything passed a visual inspection but I haven't disassembled anything yet to thoroughly test every single thing.

its not a big problem I can stop no problem, but my woman bitches cuz she's too hair-brained to pump the pedal while waiting at an intersection.

NerfGunner420

with the bleeder bolts facing down you won't get all the air out. air will still be trapped at the top of the caliper that is why the bleeder bolt should be facing up..... now down.....

shotoutacc0rd

this is what I thought. But it looks proper, the left hand side caliper even has an L on it. Didnt check the right 1 but I bet its labeled R.

usually with older cars ill overhaul the entire system if it gives me a problem, but these abs parts are way expensive and complicated the entire thing. I might just do it anyway and throw all the abs stuff into a bin and bury it.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

You know your left from your right don't you?