collinkuhn1

What’s the update? I’ve been silently following the thread, seems as if you forgot about it or got frustrated and gave up

Scotty Dosent Know

Just stumbled on this thread and am wondering too, ever get it running? Whats happening with the car?

Root16

Car has been at a proper garage (Rick's) for two weeks but he still hasn't solved the idle problem. Moe told Rick he did the timing belt correctly, as Rick wanted to check that first, but after 10 hours of trying to solve the idle problem elsewhere Rick finally checked the timing anyway, and discovered it was off a tooth! That was on Thursday, the same day I dropped of 100 printed pages relating to idle issues from my PDF service manual. Will call him (for like the 4th time) on Monday to see if there is any update.

Apparently the distributor is leaking internally (I had bought an O-ring to hopefully solve the problem but it did nothing), and so that will costs nearly a grand by itself. So 10+ hours on idle, the dizzy, the valve adjustment I still need to get done, and I still don't know if my engine is burning oil or not. And I still don't know if the alignment is fixable. And then budget in a couple grand for the body work.

Recently test drove a Ford Fiesta with 11k miles on it ($9,500) and really enjoyed it (my mom actually bought it to replace her high mileage Prius with $3000+ in exhaust/emissions repairs needed). So fingers crossed I don't end up near near-new car territory of money thrown at my VX by the time I get it to a solid state of restoration, but I'm rapidly approaching the $6000 mark (a mark I set as a goal to stay below because I passed up an 85k mileage white VX bone stock in immaculate condition save for some very minor rust in the rear wheel wells selling for $6000). I almost bought it, but someone in CO was less hesitant and willing to buy it sight-unseen).

/sigh.

Thanks for the interest in this project, though. Hopefully I'll have some positive news to share soon!

Root16

Mechanic made progress but still funky throttle response at low rpm. Mechanic thinks it is an egr that is trying to open.

chrysler kid

The Fiesta and focus models have a terrible dual clutch transmission that has ford involved in a class action lawsuit. Stay away from them at all cost

chrysler kid

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.car...ssion-lawsuit/

Root16

I did see that. The one she got is a 2017.

So on Tuesday morning mechanic calls me says the car is ready. He asked if I want the dizzy replaced. I said yes. He said he'd try to get it done by the end of the day after quoting $279 for a reman'd distributor (much less than I was expecting to spend on a replacement dizzy). So I stop by Wednesday afternoon to pick it up and he says it's not quite ready, that the engine is doing something funny when revving through low rpm. Moe calls me just now, asks me if there's any news. I tell him what I just writ here and also that the timing belt was off a tooth. He tries to tell me he did the timing right and that maybe Rick says the timing was off to incur more $$$ from me. I then mentioned to Moe that it was he who recommended Rick and he says he has to go, he's gotta catch his train. ................... Boy, I just want to find a competent mechanic I can trust, but obviously that is asking too much of this world.

Well, I suppose the car should make more power now if the timing was in fact off a tooth. Maybe I'll be able to tell when I drive it again.

Root16

Drove my car home today. No more idle issues. Distributor replaced. $1165 later .....

Rick says the Air Intake Solenoid is on the way out... I don't really know why he thinks that. (Also, not sure what that is? Did he mean the solenoid I replaced? Or maybe he meant the air intake manifold as I had that replaced.

He said something about the distributor was installed incorrectly --something about part of it being turned 180 degrees and as a result wires not connected correctly. So I guess that was the cause of the funky low idle problem? I'm still not clear what the main idle issue was caused by. I still owe the mechanic $800 so I will try to remember to set the record on my phone mic and ask him to explain the solution to the idle.

chrysler kid

Most mechanics aren't car people, they simply take things apart and call a repair service tech line phone number if the $3,000 scan tool diagnostic fix wasnt correct

You have to remember mechanics get paid to fix things quickly and not correctly.

Most people see cars as an appliance like a refrigerator. If its broken they just get a new one. You just have to figure out if youre the guy who pays a guy to fix his fridge, the guy who buys a new fridge because he doesnt have time to deal with it, or you're the guy who takes the fridge apart to fix it himself.

TomCat39

The distributor can be put in 180 degrees out which changes the firing order which causes crappy idle. It's not easy to do but others have proven it can be done time and time again on these old cars.

Root16

The car is running very nicely. The engine putters among at super low RPMs much smoother than my old motor. But it still makes this hiccuping thing when feathering the throttle at said very low rpms. If I give it some gas it smooths out immediately. I’m thinking it might have something to do with lean burn? It’s a very minor quibble at this point but thought I’d mention it since I was thinking swapping out the motor would solve the problem. (Yes, same symptom in old motor—seems to do it more in warm weather).

TomCat39

I believe that is called the lean burn stumble I guess this motor is notorious for. I think it's normal for my understanding.

Much better once you get a competent mechanic.

triple beam

i recommend getting a new oxygen sensor... the proper one! if your vx is the federal version:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-NGK-NTK-...UAAOSwDy1eDSo-

LZA 09 E1 or NGK 0025

94 Civic Si

That poor little car...

94 Civic Si

Certainly can't hurt if yours is old!

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Oh I'm so thankful this turned out well. I was bracing myself for the worst possible outcome but hoping for the best, which did occur albeit at elevated $$$ cost. The guys on here have a better read on an inexperienced/intractable mechanic than I do. That's what I learned from this thread. But then, I don't use one anymore and the reason is because I got hammered as a poor student many moons ago on a job a mechanic did that then had to be redone - in this particular case I would have had to pay twice. I was having none of that and it turns out changing a starter(!!) is very, very easy on these cars to DIY. And things snowballed from there, didn't they. OK, I know plenty about these cars in terms of features, history, markets, and options but I am NOT a mechanic. I know where I sit on the Dunning-Kruger curve there.

OP, I believe you're ready to DIY any future repairs, including to diagnose the remaining issue with your car. Between the service manual and the online forums + the user base there is absolutely nothing that isn't or couldn't be covered in terms of basic maintenance to advanced repair, including the engine swap that was done here. Rust and seized bolts are probably your biggest obstacle; minor repairs or preventative maintenance are pretty straightforward with basic tools, patience, and resilience. You will require all three.

As for the running of the motor, it is not my experience that the engine hunts around as it does at low RPMs like yours is. Interestingly, this specific issue isn't something I've seen before but that's not to say someone else with a VX motor hasn't seen it too. My first suspicion is yes it is air-related, then fuel (e.g., the pump). But no codes, right? The lean burn stumble to which TomCat is referring is at the cross-over point between VTEC-E and non-VTEC-E: it's a singular point and as I recall its location varies based on what gear you're in. It is not continuous as seen here.

OP you also need to fix your speedometer!!

TomCat39

Thanks for clarifying that lean burn stumble. I have not had the chance to experience it so only have what I've read. Makes sense it's at cross over.

Root16

I wonder if I'm due for a new fuel filter? It's not throwing an engine code. I think the last time I changed the fuel filter was around 2015. The mechanic who did it warned me not to run my tank too low because he suspected there being junk at the bottom of my tank (I think because when the tank gets very low the car has fuel delivery issues before the tank is actually completely empty). That was awhile ago so I don't remember all the details, but some random website suggests replacing the fuel filter every 20,000 to 40,000 miles on older cars, and even suggests I do it myself if I have a good shop manual which I do. My car definitely qualifies with 325,000 miles. My shop manual says to replace the fuel filter every 4 years or 60,000 miles. Might not be a bad idea. Maybe it's time for me to invest in some tools. This might be a good job for me to cut my teeth on so to speak.

https://cartreatments.com/bad-fuel-f...lacement-cost/

Rick says the Air Intake Solenoid is on the way out... I don't really know why he thinks that. (Also, not sure what that is? Did he mean the solenoid I replaced? Or maybe he meant the air intake manifold as I had that replaced. I think he did mention the engine threw a check engine light while he was working on it, but it hasn't since I've gotten it back.

Thanks for the all the moral support, everyone.

94 Civic Si

Replacing a 6 y.o. fuel filter is a good part of preventative maintenance/baselining your ride...

tony_2018

I'd say its engaging all the intake valves and that is when the stumble occurs.

triple beam

Stumbling only occurred when I was driving not when its parked. Like the engine was giving power then no power for like split second.. I replaced my oxygen sensor, and had super smooth acceleration and smooth cruising speeds in 5th gear.

I am testing these Intelligent Spark Plugs just installed them yesterday, I noticed major improvement and smooth operation going 30mph flat in 5th gear! these spark plugs are looking promising.

tony_2018

there are a couple of companies that have designed a 360 spark plug.

Root16

Now we're getting somewhere, people (another $1160 later). Very shortly after getting my car back the exhaust pipe rusted through and started dragging on the pavement. Pulled off to the side of the busy road trying to figure out how to get it not to drag so I could make it to the nearest shop. Someone was nice enough to stop and hand me a piece of wire so I was able to use it to hold the pipe up enough to get down to Rick's to have him either make a short-term fix or see about full exhaust replacement. He gave me the impression he wouldn't have time to do a proper exhaust replacement, but he did end up doing it and he got a new resonator pipe as well as the old one was long gone (I can't even remember how it came to no longer be on the car).

I happened to see in an old receipt in my glove box from several years ago from a shop in Boston quoting me something like $2000+ to have the exhaust fixed. About a week before my pipe dropped the same one on my mom's Prius dropped as well. She junked her car, though (she was quoted $3000 in exhaust repairs). Anyway, not only that, but he told me the lower ball joints were bad and apparently they needed to be replaced in order to do an alignment and now the front end is within spec! A quick aside, is it just me or are others constantly replacing ball joints on their Hondas? I feel like I've had the ball joints replaced on this car half a dozen times. Anyway, Rick said there was some rear stuff that needs to be replaced (control arms? I'm not sure) if I want the rear to be fully in spec (I think he said it was slightly out). Unfortunately I didn't get an alignment printout, but given how well the car is driving now I'm not too bothered about it.

So new ball joints, exhaust, pipes, resonator, connecting parts or whatever for the exhaust system, and alignment and now the car is really in some fine shape! The alignment seems to have noticeably affected acceleration, not to mention the huge improvement to the steering. Finally!!! Previous mechanic (before Moe) fully failed me on the steering either due to incompetence or just fully ripped me off, but the wheel now returns to center and there is a dramatic improvement to effort level. I haven't parallel parked yet, but did have to do a tight turn around in a driveway yesterday which was easy-peasy.

Rick also said that my steering rack was a little off (meaning not installed quite 100% correctly?). I asked him if it was an issue he said nah, just that it was a little off, and he was curious who put it in. I reminded him of all the work Moe had done before he had recommended I bring the car to him.

The last time I checked the oil the oil was so clean it was hard to tell where it was coming up on the dip stick (looked like the top, though). With my old motor the oil got dirty so fast; not sure if replacing the distributor has anything to do with that? Anyway, feeling very positive about the new motor and that the "white smoke" was actually water vapor from running high idle on a cold morning, but might be some time to know for sure if the motor isn't burning oil or having other issues. Between the new motor now running properly and the car being much better aligned it will be interesting to see if there will be a noticeable improvement to fuel economy (there should be!). It's been years since I've had a 600+ mile tank.

Oh, and on my way home the speedometer decided to unwind from being stuck below 0 and returned to the speed I was driving, so, for the time being, it works again, which reminds me I still need to send the cluster to Virginia to be repaired but I'm gonna wait a bit since it's been so long since I've been able to drive my car!

The carbon fiber hood also still needs to be installed. And then the next major hurdle is the body work and making a plan of attack on that.

wxman94ej1

Where in VA can you send clusters to be repaired?

Root16

Send your broken cluster to VA to be repaired: https://www.instrumentclusters.com/