otherink

Hello, I am new to the forums.

I got a major issue that is wrecking my brain right now, wondering if you can help me???

Is there something electrical responsible for EGR SYSTEMS and EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM??

Is there something I can do at home instead of taking it to the dealer?
Would disconnecting the battery AGAIN fix the issue???
I have all ready driven more than 70 miles after leaving the battery connected since Thursday afternoon.

My 2006 civic EX coupe with between 88k to 89k miles failed state inspection for a NOT READY status on EGR SYSTEMS and EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM.

When I put the ignition to start II, the OIL,BATTERY, AND ENGINE LIGHTS ALL GO ON. After 21 seconds the OIL AND BATTERY LIGHTS remain on but the ENGINE LIGHT blinks on/off 5 times and then turns off while only the OIL and BATTERY remain lit.

I disconnected the battery from the neg and pos connections numerous times last year 2013 some instances disconnecting it entirely for well over a month.

Now I left It connected since Thursday afternoon, drove more than 70 miles, and followed what was in the manual, although the part about driving 55 and leaving my foot off the gas for 90 seconds was hard to follow because I would decelerate too often and people would end up tailing me.

what do I do??? Is this a FUSE, ELECTRICAL, OR PHYSICAL problem?

lazlong

If you don't have a diagnostic tool (code reader) go to the auto parts store and they will pull codes for free. Write down and post the specific codes and we can go from there.

To reset the computer you need to pull the ECM/PCM fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds. This has to be done when the ignition is OFF.

otherink

Wouldn't the battery not being connected for over a month be equal to pulling out any fuse?

Doesn't the computer have to learn my driving, so would resetting the ECM/PCM just negate the miles I have driven thus far?

lazlong

Not necessarily.

It doesn't need to learn how you drive, it needs to set readiness codes. It won't set readiness codes when something is wrong. Pull the codes so we can fix the original problem. Once that is fixed you reset the ECM/PCM, like I said, then drive it to set readiness codes. After driving it to set readiness codes put a code reader on it and see if the readiness codes are set. If they are then you're good to go for inspection.

otherink

I should also note that at the DMV the printout listed that there were 0 codes and that there were another set of codes that came in as N/A.

otherink

Supposing it's something like a blown fuse?

Also how do you reset the ECM/PCM?

otherink

Is there anything physical that I can inspect to check that there is or isn't anything wrong? I just talked to someone from Autozone and they suggested that there isn't anything they can do. Pulling codes wouldn't make a difference. He recommended what everyone else does and just drive the car around (drive cycles).

lazlong

"Drive cycles" means setting the readiness codes.

To reset the ECM/PCM: Look under the lid of the underhood fuse box and find the fuse for the ECM/PCM. With the ignition OFF, pull the fuse for at least 10 seconds. It may be listed as the ECU fuse. After that drive it around for a while to set the readiness codes.

If that doesn't set the readiness codes then it may be bad wires/connections but, with something wrong with both the EGR and EVAP systems the more likely suspect is a bad ECM/PCM.

Also, check for bad wires/connections at the EGR and bad wires/connections/vacuum lines around the EVAP components in the engine bay.

The EGR should look something like this (has the green sticker on it):


The EVAP components will be on the other side of the engine around the throttlebody and intake plenum.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Seems as if he already reset the ECU. But he can't get the system "ready" for inspection. Drive around normally for a few days, OP. The system has to see a few drive cycles...not just going 55mph and taking your foot off the gas.

otherink

Thanks for your help guys. But hopefully it isn't a bad ecm/pcm. I don't tinker around with my civic so can't imagine it's physical. My car has been used sporadically for all of 2013, most times I would disconnect the battery to let it sit for weeks. Last Thursday decided to use the civic again and my car is due for registration and I got not ready, so I have been driving for 20 miles every day since.

otherink

If I take it out then what about all the driving I'm doing now?

otherink

update: drove over 100 miles today, did the cold start procedure let it idle for 30 secs and then rev to 2000 rpm until the digital Temp gauge reads 4 bars or more.

Did the coasting for 90 seconds, but did a break down for 30 seconds three times in a row instead.

drove it for over 100 miles today and still no luck...how long is this going to take?