chprr

Problem: The batter on my 06 Civic completely died yesterday and as a result I had to buy a new one. (Duh!!) After I installed it, the car's immobilizer indicator started to flash when I tried to start the car. The ignition will turn, but the immobilizer will not let any gas to the engine.

I called Honda and they said to tow the car in and have them look at it. Yeah, ok and I'll pay about $500 total because my warranty is already done.

Anyone have this problem before or know any resolutions?

Any help is great. Thanks.

high_revs

something got [freak]ed up when you reconected the battery...take it to the dealer, maybe they will one time good will it.

sixonethree

we cannot post instructions on how to bypass the immobilizer (ie. how to steal the car). not saying that you will, but once that kind of info is out there, it kind of defeats most of the purpose of having it huh.

you gotta do what you gotta do, just take it to the dealer and hope they dont charge you for it.

SIVIC 3

that seems very out of the ordinary. the dealer shoud good will it. go where you bought it from and hope for the best.

emancivic

pm'd

Dogginator

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sixonethree &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we cannot post instructions on how to bypass the immobilizer (ie. how to steal the car). not saying that you will, but once that kind of info is out there, it kind of defeats most of the purpose of having it huh.

you gotta do what you gotta do, just take it to the dealer and hope they dont charge you for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Zeusone

you would rather go without your car than pay? it shoulnt trip the immobilizer if the battery dies.

phootbag

Why should the dealer good will it? Sounds like you will need to have them reprogram your keys to the immobilizer system. Unless, of course, there is another problem. You didn't hook the battery up backwards on accident, did you?

kalisjr

The system resets itself after 30 min, something similar happend on my car but there was not power at all. Thought it was the immoblizer turned out to be a bad negative battery cable.

Here are the details of this incident.

Wife took the car to work when she got off the car would not start, had it jumped still would not start. She got a ride home from a co-worker and I went to buy a new battery. Swapped it out and nothing, now before I took the battery from the local Walmart I had them check it before I left to ensure it did not have a bad cell since that happened to me once before. After calling the dealer they told me the same thing, except they said the problem was most likely the unit itself failed or something with one of the many computers this car has in it.

The thing that perplexed me was that I could not get anything to work, not even the power locks, dome light nothing. After thinking it might be the ground wire I looked it was perfect no visable issues in fact it looked brand new that is just how good it looked. Well I changed it anyway then afterwards cut open the old one and low and behold it was green corrosion all the way up the cable, this causes the alternator to work harder and once it was replaced a ton of stuff started working better than ever. Now I have since consulted with many other mechanics and they say you should replace the negative battery cable every two years no matter what, well it only costs 5.00 and the time it take to swap it is under 10 minutes well worth the benefits.

The way Honda are wired are different than other cars, when things go wrong with the electrical they start to fry components, so take heed anytime you make changes to anything on the electrical side that you disconnect the negative battery cable first and double check everything before you hook things back up these cars don't take to kindly to aftermarket electrical changes period.

If the system does not reset after 30 mins others have said it could be your key lost it's program because the battery in the key went south, so check the simple things first, I only hope for those that read this post they never have this problem during the winter.

JK

bsd2002

The same thing just happened to me except I don't have the new battery yet. I got a jump start from roadside assistance and the green key light is coming on and keeps shutting my car down. I called honda and they said the jump may have damaged the immobilizer computer. I don't have any money and am trying to get a new job. Can someone tell me how to bypass the immobilizer. Otherwise Im gonna probably be forced to sell it as is. Since I can't afford to pay $112 to have the dealer just look at it... they said it could be the main fuse or the immobilizer unit or computer from a surge. Or the key may need to be reprogrammed. Please help.
I have 2006 honda civic ex w/o navigator...

DaveSi677

and what if it's not the immobilizer? you are still going to have buy or pay for something to get fixed...

Again information like this cannot be put on a forum and don't test me!

joec44

New cars will do crazy things with a bad bat. Try this a cable reset How? Well remove the bat. short together the 2 main cables for 10 min. WITH THE BAT. OUT OF CAR! And retest If no help check all fuses Still no god any good shop can do the diag. Oh the cable reset is sorta like a reboot on your comp. good luck and be carfel

ridinny

Bringing this back from the dead, but if anyone knows how to do this.. PLEASE HELP

PM me or reach out anyway possible. TY

My car will only run for a couple seconds. I called a locksmith and they said that the immobilizer lost comm with the ECU. I don't want to keep throwing money at it.

carwizi

Good news! I had the same problem. Tried all solutions found on the web. Nothing worked. I was about to give up. Lucky I kept researching. In the end, what did the trick was using the Thinkdiag, which happens to be also the cheapest among gadgets that can program keys and reset ecu (less than $100). Important: you first need to choose "Immobilizer Status". Then it would say "Status Abnormal - Want to reset"? I followed the direction to reset. Instantly, the green key warning went off, and the car started as normal. The process took literally 5 seconds, and it's all done. It did not need to erase the existing keys and re-register them, unlike other key programming tools. A locksmith would have charged $200 to do exactly the same. You don't have to use Thinkdiag if you can borrow a high model Autel, Launch, X431 or similar tool (they cost around $800 to 1200). They should work the same . However, if the machine can only program key but cannot reset the ecu (eg. CK100, SBB, etc), it might not work. In short, it has to be a machine that can both reset the ecu and program keys. No matter what, I was at first terrified. I cannot imagine spending $1,000 with dealer and getting the car tolled. That cost is so high relative to the value of this old (but perfectly working) car itself. Also, if all else fails, I also discovered that removing the old ecu and putting in a new one is easy as changing lightbulbs. And eBay sells replacement ecu for just $25 !!! But after the replacement, you still need a machine that can program keys and update the vin (like a Thinkdiag or X431). Imagine if that was never found out and one has to spend $1,000 at the dealership to do the same! I hope this helps others who are having the same problem.

Larrylovejr

did you figure this problem out if so can we speak